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Posts: 1144
Location: Minnesota. | I'm infatuated with Suicks of late since a nice 54"er ate one this July. Amazing fish - and bait.
I'd like to make a couple. My questions are about securing the hooks. It seems the factory baits use a cotter key??? I'm guessing they bend one leg, the long one over for the first portion or length (thickness of the bait) and then bend the last end of the same leg to be pounded into the top of the Suick, correct?
If I'm guessing right the remaining leg of the pin is clipped short, just under the top of the body so it doesn't show and is just left unsecured inside the hole in the body, hopefully it can't pull out??
I've not take an old one apart to see, just guessing here. Obviously this is all you'd need to make the solid "hook-holders"... along with a button to push into the bottom for wear???
Alternately I'm considering laying a pin in a groove across the top, epoxied in and hanging a stainless steel, formed hook-holder down from that via a hole and then dangling down to attach a split-ring to.
Sound reasonable?
I'd rather do it like the factory does it though as it appears that's all a guy would need. I'm just wondering about that leg that's clipped short and left inside the hole, unsecured. I'd hate tp bust apart one of my baits to find out but....
Thanks for any help here.
Jeremy. |
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Posts: 1
| For a long time I struggled with the same dilemma. Now the solution I came up with may not work for truly trophy sized fish but it has worked fine for me. Now the first time I made a Suick imitation I was 14 and I didn't have a whole of materials to work with. All I had laying around to secure the hooks were a couple of roughly 1" heavy duty eyelet screws. In order to try to keep them as anchored as strongly as possible I screwed them in angled sharply towards the back of the bait. I would angle the eyelet screws far enough back that I could screw them al of the way in and just barely stay below the surface on the top of the bait. I would screw them in about half way and then take them back out. Next I would drill a hole with a slightly larger diameter. Enough that I could almost slide the screw in and out of the hole. I would then fill the hole with some Devcon 5-min and then screw the hooks in al of the way. I have not had one pull out on me yet.
Now the designs you are talking about seem quite reasonable and would probably be a bit stronger. Just thought i would share a different technique. |
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Posts: 1144
Location: Minnesota. | Joe, thanks for sharing but like you know, I think there may be a better way. I appreciate your reply though.
Jeremy. |
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Posts: 321
Location: Glen Ellyn Il | Jeremy
I am very mechanically inclined. The way the cutter pin is installed,
A: drill a hole that both leg of the pins fit through very snug no wiggle
B: cut one leg about 1/8 below the top of the surface, to provide ample room to bend the other leg over
C: bend the exposed pin about 3/8 inch above the surface, the bend about 30 to 40 degree at first
D: from the bend cut the remainder of the pin, leave a 3/8 inch tag
E: Drill a second hole again very small and very snug exactly the length of the tag 3/8 inches
F: Start bending the exposed bent pin toward the drilled hole
G: as the tag end start to get closer to the drilled hole, start bending and aiming toward the, work both bends
H: Once the pin enters the hole start pounding down with a hammer gently
I: Make sure that the pin cotter eye is supported by a soft wood I use 2 by 4 lumber the eye will sink in the wood
I just made a simple I will post a pic
Gino |
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