|
|
| Here's a problem for those who love this kind of stuff...
So, two weeks ago, I was cruising all around the lake fishing. After one boat run of probably four miles, I pulled back the throttle to bring the boat off plane to fish my next spot. At this point, I heard a sputtering sound in the engine. Puttting it back on plane at half throttle, no such sound. The engine began running very rough, vibrating heavily and sputtering, but only at neutral throttle or when put in gear at idle speed and low RPMs. Hmmm... Bad fuel? Plugs? Injectors?
Brining it to the mechanic, he checks the computer. The program showed the engine had overheated 57 times, which was odd because the horn never sounded except on two occassions a few years back when I sucked some weeds into the intake and the engine overheated. That she had overheated 57 times is still somewhat of a mystery, but might be pertinent to the bigger problem??
Checking the compression of each cyclindar, the mechanic found that one of the cyclinders was dead. Cold seized, he thought. I do fish in cold weather in the fall (sub freezing), so cold seize is a real threat. However, this problem occurred on a warm day after I had been running around the lake quite a bit.
I'm wondering if there is something else in play here?? The mechanic is taking my engine apart to determine the extent of the damage. He thinks he can fix the problme for cheaper than the cost of a new powerhead, but if he does that without correcting the problem which caused the seizure in the first place, won't I be having the same issue again sometime in the future?? I'm no mechanic, but cold seize doesn't feel like the right cause of the seizure. Lean seize?? Could that be why the engine computer shows 57 episodes of overheating??
I dunno about this, but do know this is going to cost me a lot of jing...and I don't want the problem to re-occur after shelling out this kind of $$$'s.
Could there be something more than cold seize in play?
What do you think?
Brian |
|
| |
|
Posts: 793
Location: Ames, Iowa | Same thing started happening with my 2001 Merc 4 stroke. All warmed up and runs fine at higher rpm, then sometimes sputtering, rough and dying upon slowing and going to neutral. Usually a 45 minute wait to get restarted with lots of ball pumps, worrying the starter will o'heat, a few prayers. Sorry I can't be of much help with your issue but this sounds similar. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1096
Location: Hayward, WI | How about some more background info: what motor? how many hours on it? any other issues in the past? |
|
| |
|
| More info:
'03 Yammie 250 HPDI 2-stoke
259 hours per the computer
Have not had any similiar problems in the past; engine has been bullet-proof
Side note: I did hit a rock last fall quite hard; hard enough to shut off the motor. The mechanic recently pulled the lower unit apart and fearing some damage and found the gears and bearings to be fine. No water in the oil. Prop shaft slightly bent and was recently replaced along w/ the impeller. After having the skeg replaced and prop re-worked, I probably put another 10 hours on the motor since that event last fall without any mechanical issues.
brian |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1096
Location: Hayward, WI | Tear down should tell more of the story. Yammies not known for cold sieze as much as other motors. Check for melted exhaust tuner, more probable on that motor. Also check for contaminated 2 stroke oil. Where the $$ fuel filters ever replaced on the motor? If not could lead to a lean condtion, but usually shows up as a running condtion first. Let us know what tear down reveals. |
|
| |
|
Location: Eastern Ontario | What is COLD SIEZE first time I have heard the term? |
|
| |
|
| Fuel filter?? What fuel filter?? That engine has never had one, but will in the future. Certainly will have the mechanic check on these other possibilities, too.
Cold seize = Inadequately warmed up engine, leading to piston seize up.
My layman's understanding is that the pistons, being made of aluminum, heat up much faster than the engine block during a cold start. If the user puts the hammer down before the block has a chance to warm up, the heated piston can expand rapidly and seize up in the cylinder. Probably an oversimplification, but the message is clear: let the engine warm up sufficiently before really going at it. This may not be my problem, but still good practice to follow.
Brian |
|
| |
|
| I'm wondering if it was a faulty injector? A friend of mine had a bad injector that failed. This allowed zero lubrication into one of his cylinders---screwed the powerhead big time. One cylinder ran dry and built up tremendous heat. Just a thought |
|
| |
|
Posts: 4080
Location: Elko - Lake Vermilion | Sounds like a hole in one of your Pistons.That's not good.
I have a 2003 VMax that just got rebuilt,...It had the same symptoms, only with about 780 hrs. on it.
My motor has 2 fuel filters on it.
259 hrs. aren't many hrs for a rebuild. |
|
| |
|
| She's being torn apart today. I should have more info soon. Will post what is found for those following this.
brian |
|
| |
|
Posts: 40
Location: Straight out from shore! | 123 - 6/4/2012 2:33 PM
More info:
'03 Yammie 250 HPDI 2-stoke
259 hours per the computer
Have not had any similiar problems in the past; engine has been bullet-proof
Side note: I did hit a rock last fall quite hard; hard enough to shut off the motor. The mechanic recently pulled the lower unit apart and fearing some damage and found the gears and bearings to be fine. No water in the oil. Prop shaft slightly bent and was recently replaced along w/ the impeller. After having the skeg replaced and prop re-worked, I probably put another 10 hours on the motor since that event last fall without any mechanical issues.
brian I'm guessing that when you hit the "ROCK" it threw the motor out of synch. What I mean is, the crank journals are out of time. Good Luck?  |
|
| |
|
| Well, my hunch was right...
My engine is in pieces and the CSI done by my mechanic shows, not a cold seize problem, but a broken piston. He can't get the piston out to say for sure, but looks as if one of the four pins failed, broke-off, and got into the cyclinder which caused the piston to break apart and then took a chunk of metal off the port. Bottom line: The powerhead is shot.
I have a new problem now: Buy a whole new motor and gauges? Buy a used motor of the same make/model? Replace the powerhead with a remanufactured powerhead and use the old gauges? Replace the powerhead with a newly manufactured one from Yamaha and keep the old gauges? Give up fishing altogther??
Of course, there are economic considerations in each scenario, but this is the decision that now needs to be made.
Would love any input if you have thoughts. I'm considering all options...except the last (give up fishing).
Btw, I do plan to keep the boat for at least five more years.
Thanks everyone for the previous input on my boat problems!
Brian |
|
| |
|
Posts: 4080
Location: Elko - Lake Vermilion | How's the Warranty?
I had mine rebuilt with a remanf. power head from Jasper and all new pistons,rings bearings, pins , seals,.etc.... The crank was still good.
I would think that with your low hrs. that it would still be under manuf. warranty.
Either way , you will not be using that boat for a month or 2
I feel your pain. |
|
| |
