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Posts: 64
| Has anyone converted their oil bathe to grease on the ranger trailers? Mine is leaking oil and the seal is shot. The new seal leaks as well. was told that once the spindle gets a groove, the seal will wear quickly until a new spindle is bought. Figured grease would be less worry, I know I would have to check it more often, but is worth the satisfaction of knowing.... Any tips? |
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Location: 31 | I have the cool hubs to and I see no reason to change. I think you're looking at a pretty good expense to do it right, not to mention that there are literally thousands of boats rolling around with the same cool hubs that are working perfectly.
Why not just replace the spindle, service all, and and keep rolling with what Ranger thinks is the best system? |
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Posts: 1767
Location: Lake Country, Wisconsin | i would def. get it fixed the correct way...the cool hubs are really a much better option and require far less maintenance |
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Posts: 431
| Yeah what Ranger thinks is the best system? Is this why they went to the Vortex hub system? |
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Location: 31 | Juhas - 4/22/2012 3:46 PM
Yeah what Ranger thinks is the best system? Is this why they went to the Vortex hub system?
You are right Juhas, I wasn't up on that change. He should at least consider the Vortex even though I really haven't heard too much bad about Tie-down oil filled hubs. I don't know about the pre-2005 oil filled hubs.
The hybrid Oil deal is kind of interesting, I lifted this info from another site...
"I asked questions about the Ranger hubs from one year to another and this is the response i got back from Ranger. I hope this helps answer some of you guys questions.
Like Ranger Boats, the Ranger Trail Trailer is constantly improving to build the best products for our customer. Ranger Trail trailers have made some changes to the suspension, couplers, and brake hubs.
Through 2004 Ranger used UFP oil filled hubs on Ranger Trail Trailers.
Most painted trailers had weld on spindles, with oil filed hubs.
Road Armored Trailers were torsion bar suspension, with oil filled hubs.
2005-2009 Ranger changed to all Road Armored Trailers, with torsion bar suspension, and Tie-Down oil filled hubs, with replaceable spindles."
2010 Ranger changed to UFP couplers, and Hybrid Oil filled hubs. These are not knock- out type hubs, but the swing arm hub assembly can be replaced.
Hybrid Oil looks and acts like grease, and can be used in a grease gun. When Hybrid Oil gets hot, it turns to back to oil. When cooled, Hybrid Oil returns to the form of grease, thus having both consistencies.
Ranger does sell replacement hubs, and spindle units for 2005-2009 hubs, they would come oil filled, as was originally installed. Tie-Down does make a Vortex hub that can be used as a replacement. The Vortex hub comes with Hybrid oil.
Ranger Boats does not sell this item!
Hybrid oil can be used in any style hub. If oil is used in any hub prior to 2010, use 50wt. oil. If there is any sign of oil leaking, on the inside of the wheel, the inner seal would need to be replaced, as well as the oil.
There can be some overlap of changes at model years change. Only correct way to know is by the serial number on the trailer!
Hopefully this will help to clarify some of the confusion to Rangers changes in Ranger Trail Trailers."
"Yeah, the Vortex hubs are the bomb. 6 yr 100,000 mile no maintenance. Unlike the UFP hubs where you have to find a service center and you void your warranty if you pull them apart, Tie Down is taking a no questions asked replacement approach on hubs and the Lucas Marine Grease can be found anywhere, if you just feel like repacking every few years for your own peace of mind. We see very few hub failures from lack of service, though. Usually it's the brakes causing the problem, so take good care of those too."
Edited by Jerry Newman 4/22/2012 4:33 PM
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| I just got done changing my 1996 ranger trailer to grease. I had intentions of leaving them as cool hubs,as they were leaking I ordered new seals and took them aprart. The problem I had was i couldn't get the drain plugs out as they were rusted in. I didn't have quick access to a torch to heat them so I packed the bearings and replaced the seals and put them back together. I ordered some bearing buddies from bearing buddie but I got the wrong size and have to reorder. I'm sure this setup will work fine for my as my boat usaully travels abou 1/4 a year from home to the Lake of the woods where I live. And I won't have to worry about leaking oil on the garage floor. I think if your drain plugs are fine, and you can get them loose then simply order seals and replace them and fill the hubs up or get seals and grease them and put them together. Either waywill work. Maybe a little more maintenace with grease as long as your seals hold the oil back. Either way, good fishing and happy trailering. |
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Posts: 64
| Thanks, will look into all options. |
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| Question for the guys still running the (older?) cool hubs(2001). I have changed the rear seals a couple of times, but my oil still gets fairly milky not long after changing. Could the front seals be the issue, and are they replaceable? Also, I have been told to fill them about 80% full, for expansion purposes. True? |
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| My 1996 trailer didn't have front seals. All it had was a oring around the cap you knock on. I don't think the oring does much. As long as the cap is undamaged its tight to the hub just like bearing buddies. I suppose the cap could get damaged some way as to let in water. Mine have a plastic end to see the oil, I suppose that could crack. You should be able to see that. I have had several boat trailers in my life and have pulled my boat as far as south texas back to northern mn and the only trailer I have had trouble with is this oil filled hubs. There not for me. Good luck. |
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Posts: 227
Location: Maple Grove | reef hawg unhitched - 4/25/2012 8:22 AM
Question for the guys still running the (older?) cool hubs(2001). I have changed the rear seals a couple of times, but my oil still gets fairly milky not long after changing. Could the front seals be the issue, and are they replaceable? Also, I have been told to fill them about 80% full, for expansion purposes. True?
Here is an email I got from Ranger on the subject back in 2009. I have a 2000 trailer with the cool hubs.
The oil can change color with as little as three drops of water. The milky oil will not
hurt anything. The hubs are to be serviced once per year or every 20,000 miles. There are
no issues with the hubs. Normal maintenance and they will last another 9 years.
Here' some additional information about COOL Hubs:
COOL HUBS
Contained Oil Orbital Lubrication (COOL) Hubs feature:
* ADDING LUBRICANT - Lubricant is added through threaded port on nose of hub. This allows
for easy access and maximum filling of hub cavity with oil.
* LUBRICANT - Uses standard 50 weight motor oil.
* PRESSURE CONTROL-THERMAL EXPANSION - Hub cavity is completely filled with oil. There is
no void which could allow water entry during submersion of trailer in water and cooling of
oil.
* SEALING - FRONT - Stainless steel barrel is press fit into hub. A seal is used between
hub bore and barrel. Double quad-rings on piston riding on a stainless steel surface to
help prevent any leakage.
* SEALING - REAR - A factory installed stainless steel collar is press fitted and sealed
onto spindle. A coated double lip inner hub seal riding on the stainless steel collar
keeps pressurized oil in and water out of hub.
If your trailer is equipped with COOL Hubs, the system should be serviced once a year or
every 20,000 miles whichever comes first. To do so, simply remove the plug located in the
hub nose, rotate the hole to the bottom position to drain the oil, refill the hub
completely with approximately 5 oz. of 50 wt, standard (non-synthetic) motor oil and
reinstall plug.
Hope this helps. Thanks again and let us know if we can be of further assistance.
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