|
|
| So I recently purchased my first rig (used not new). Everything (motor, electronics, power trim ect) seemed to be working order on a test run on open water and while playing with things in the garage over past week here. In setting up things on how I want it, I installed a battery shut-off switch (red little box with on/off turn switch). Everything runs through this switch (motor, electronic, all boat wiring) and then the battery shut off switch runs to the (+) terminal of the battery…. pretty basic and everything seemed to work after shut-off switch installation.
However, I have now notice that my power trim does not work? It seems to have power to it and when I try to trim it up/down I can hear the hydraulics working but no movement?? Like its locked up or something? Just seems weird when it worked properly before and now it doesn’t. I did not cut or splice any wires, made sure battery was disconnect before installation, checked fuses (seemed good from the ones I see). I just simply disconnected the (+) terminals from the cranking battery and routed them through the battery shut off switch instead and now no power trim? Confused on what could be the culprit.
Motor is a 99' 40hp Johnson with electric start and power trim.
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 433
Location: Cedarburg, Wisconsin | If you can hear the pump motor running and there is no motion, I would think two posibilities are that you are either low on fluid or maybe the manual relief valve is open. There should probably be a screw that opens that valve and it would be easy to check if it was tight.
If the pump motor is running when you press the trim switch that's all it can do, the problem is not electrical. You might have a pump problem with broken parts or whatever but it has to be mechanical.
You don't have a tilt bracket locking the motor down do you? |
|
| |
|
Posts: 682
Location: Sycamore, IL | I would disconnect the trim wires from the battery disconnect switch and run them straight to the battery to see if there is a issue with the switch wiring....if it worked fine before this change I would backtrack to trouble shoot before ruling on mechanical being the issue. Does this have a Hot Foot connected to it? Good Luck! |
|
| |
|
| "If the pump motor is running when you press the trim switch that's all it can do, the problem is not electrical. You might have a pump problem with broken parts or whatever but it has to be mechanical"
That's exactly what I thought...mechanical problem and not electrical if I can hear the pump motor running.
And yes it does have a tilt bracket locking but that is not engaged. As for the manual relief valve. I wouldn't even know where or what that is and no I have not touched anything under the motor hood as it was operating perfectly fine prior.
Looks like it might be an old stop to the boat dealer for service |
|
| |
|
| MD75 - 4/4/2011 12:59 PM
I would disconnect the trim wires from the battery disconnect switch and run them straight to the battery to see if there is a issue with the switch wiring....if it worked fine before this change I would backtrack to trouble shoot before ruling on mechanical being the issue. Does this have a Hot Foot connected to it? Good Luck!
I did exactly that. Basically unhooked the shut-off switch and hooked the boat motor terminals to the cranking battery by itself (trim power is within this) and still the same symptoms.
Edited by Esox Madness 4/5/2011 10:36 AM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 682
Location: Sycamore, IL | Oh yeah, I almost forgot...what boat did you get? Post some pics of your new rig when you get a chance.... |
|
| |
|
| She's a 98' Warrior V166 BackTroller. I nice starter boat.
Attachments
----------------
 Floor_Layout.jpg (70KB - 136 downloads)
Front_Right.jpg (94KB - 124 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 3870
| Unlikely but possible and a good ghost of which to be aware...
a power trim swith under the rear motor housing requires wires to make the switch work. Needs a simple circut, really. Easy. But in some motor models the feed wires to the rear motor switch are of poor design. They are long and suffer friction every time the motor is riaise or lowered. Every time. Some of those wires will become stripped to the copper over time. And here's the ghost in the machine part.....
A couple stripped wires are not in contact, right? Right, but just a small amout of moisture can create an arc between the exposed metal and flip the power-trim switch, just like you were pressing the button. And the switch switches when it switches, in your driveway on on the highway.
Backgroud..While parked in the yard and during a strong storm my 150 motor would raise up off the transom-saver all by itself. I didn't take it serious until the motor lifted while driving home in the rain. Lost the trans-saver that time. Lucky me, I started troubls shooting by tracking with wires to and from the motor. Ony at the end did I take the time to uncover the motor and check the motor's power-trim feeds. Bare wire, and not much, but it was there on all wires. The root problem for the short. Cut and repair and tape the beeatches for under $5.00. LUCKY ME! |
|
| |
|
| Just an update. I did get my power trim back to working order. Honestly, I really didn't do anything to it or replace anything.
It seemed locked up and I knew elec power was getting to the hydraulic motor pump. So, I just opened the manual release by-pass screw valve and physically lifted the motor. Popped the hydraulic reservoir fill cap to check fluid, all looked good and full. Retighten all the screw caps and WALLA she worked!
Don't know much about hydraulics but it seemed as if it was air locked or something and just needed some movement of the motor physically to get it going again. Hopefully this fixed the issue and makes a guy wonder why in the hell did it happen in the first place?
|
|
| |
