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Posts: 309
Location: Elgin IL | I can't believe this is never talked about. I love throwing Double 10 bucktails and I have always used the best you know the name but that doesn't matter they all do this. Painted blades after a couple days of heavy use the blades start sticking together and or helicoptering and hard to start.
I have heard that the clevis is bad or the shaft is bent the blades are cupped or chipped and on and on. Then I use a nickel,copper and gold blades beat the hell out of them and they keep working great. I love the painted blades in the darker waters of Lake of the Woods but I'm tired of spending 25 bucks for 2 days of use and then throwing them in a pile .I did see some copper blades that had a orange dot sprayed on them and that looked interesting.I have talked to some of the lure manufacturers and they look at me like I'm crazy..... not here to attack them.
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Posts: 315
| Thats kind of odd that ur blades wont spin just because they're painted. Every now and then I have a problem with blades spinning and it just happens to be something with how they're built i believe. When a bucktail spins I bend the shaft at a 45 about 3/4 inch down from the eye. In most cases that will take care of ur problem. If I ablolutely can not fix it I chop it and rebuild. |
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Posts: 1405
Location: Detroit River | To avoid some of the issues you have is to build your own. You can use thicker gauge blades to prevent them from bending but the blades won't spin at the same angle as the thinner gauge blades. Heavier gauge blades also wear out the clevis faster than the thinner blades. The thicker blades also give off a different sound. Putting a solid metal bead in-between the clevis will help prevent them from collapsing. Putting a larger hollow bead above the clevis will help prevent the blades from wrapping up on the line during the cast & help aid in getting the blade to spin when the retrieve starts. Using powder paint on the blades will give a more durable finish than using other spray paints used.
On St. Clair some of the trollers use double 10’s & 13’s with thicker wire (.062 to .078) because it holds up better & doesn’t bend as easy as the .051 wire used by most. The thicker wire gives off a different vibration than the thinner wire. Some trollers on St. Clair also remove the top hook to prevent the hook from cutting up the skirt & it also helps reduce the chance of the wire from getting bent when the fish hit’s the top hook.
When you use different materials than those used by the so-called “best name brand” the lure will perform slightly different.
Other options for buying double 10’s is Spankys & Lappertails. I’ve never used Lappertails but did check them out at the Michigan Musky Show & I was impressed at the changes they made to help prevent wear & tear. The Lappertails have the most work into building them than any others that I have seen. The Lappertails are geared more toward high speed trolling than for casters. Both Spankys & Lappertails will also make custom colors for you.
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| You aren't alone. Had the same issue with smaller blades a few years back. The blades were made out of steel, unlike the nickel and copper blades that spin all of the time. Essentially, they were too heavy for their size. Now I only throw unpainted blades on smaller bucktails. I did not think there were any issues with the double 10s. |
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Posts: 944
| Buy Spanky double 10's and you wont have that problem. He uses heavier blades wire and clevises. I have some with painted blades that are 3 years old tons of hours on them and tons of fish and still run true.The Lapper tails are an exact copy of a Spanky bead for bead he ordered some from Spanky then coppied them EXACTLY.
Jeff Hanson
madisonmuskyguide.com |
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Location: MN | I am pretty sure the thinner gauge painted blades are made with a different material than the metallic finish blades.... don't quote me on this. They use a different material so the pain will stick. If you call up Thorne Bros and talk with Pat Smith I am sure he could explain it to you in detail.
Regarding them warping, agree, it happens. I would never give up on a bait and toss it in the pile. Just keep a bunch of spare blades, wire, and heat shrink tubing with you all the time and re-make the baits when they go bad. What I have noticed that the painted thin blades soften up around the clevis hole and will bend out of shape. You can bend them back to shape but as the material softens up it becomes fruitless as it'll bend back out. Once they get to this point I'll toss the blades and replace them. Some of my best bucktails have gone through many rounds of new blades and they still work great time after time. You can go to thicker gauge blades but some folks, myself included, prefer the thinner blades. |
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Posts: 1405
Location: Detroit River | Jeff Hanson - 2/17/2011 5:04 PM
Buy Spanky double 10's and you wont have that problem. He uses heavier blades wire and clevises. I have some with painted blades that are 3 years old tons of hours on them and tons of fish and still run true.The Lapper tails are an exact copy of a Spanky bead for bead he ordered some from Spanky then coppied them EXACTLY.
Jeff Hanson
madisonmuskyguide.com
The Lappertails I seen at the Michigan Musky Show were not even close to the Spankys. The Lappers had thicker wire & also had some spacers between each skirt & between the beads & clevis. They guy said the spacers helped prevent wear & tear on the clevis from high speed trolling. |
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| Msky3 - Wow this happens to me as well - I just won't buy a painted blade anymore. I can't tell you how many times I go back to my box and pick up my orange or chartruse girl and then end up taking it off with frustration. I wish I knew how to fix it but any bending, adjusting and tinkering does not seem to help me - Funny how it rarely happens to the ones that are not painted. |
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Posts: 944
| Zib,
You did not look at the Spankys then. Spankys have the Same spacer and the same wear part between the clevises and beads.All 2009 and newer Spankys have this. Dan the owner of Spanky baits came up with the idea not Lapper. The wire is the same he gets it from the same guy it is the same thickness. It is a exact COPY......
I was at Spankys shop and saw Lappers order form from Spanky Pretty sad...
To say" Lappers have the most work put into them than any others" is a Joke
Its real hard to order a bait from someone then make a exact copy.. and then use the same sales pitch for something they did not come up with... an innovator Terry is not.. |
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Posts: 1405
Location: Detroit River | Jeff Hanson - 2/18/2011 12:06 AM
Zib,
You did not look at the Spankys then. Spankys have the Same spacer and the same wear part between the clevises and beads.All 2009 and newer Spankys have this. Dan the owner of Spanky baits came up with the idea not Lapper. The wire is the same he gets it from the same guy it is the same thickness. It is a exact COPY......
I was at Spankys shop and saw Lappers order form from Spanky Pretty sad...
To say" Lappers have the most work put into them than any others" is a Joke
Its real hard to order a bait from someone then make a exact copy.. and then use the same sales pitch for something they did not come up with... an innovator Terry is not..
The Spankys that I bought last year (Hulk Hogan & $9 Bass) did not have spacers on them. They must have sent me old stock. I could care less who copied who. You could say that Spanky copied MM & just made improvements. I make my own now. |
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Posts: 665
Location: Twin Cities, MN | I was able to get some great double 10 blades from Gerry Tails that were chip resistant. So far they have been great. The only problem is that the supplier now has an exclusive agreement with somebody to sell only to them. I have not found them yet, but I have to venture I will not want to pay the price for them even though I make my own now. |
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Posts: 496
| Has anyone tried the new S shaped clevis that holds each blade on it's respective side ? I jsut ordered some from lureparts online. It is similar to an idea I had ....then I saw them and said screw it I will just try these....... Check them out I think they will help with the no spin issue |
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Posts: 1169
Location: New Hope MN | musky slut - 2/18/2011 2:18 PM
Has anyone tried the new S shaped clevis that holds each blade on it's respective side ? I jsut ordered some from lureparts online. It is similar to an idea I had ....then I saw them and said screw it I will just try these....... Check them out I think they will help with the no spin issue
I saw them too. I thought they would be a great idea. Let me know what you think when you build them up. |
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Posts: 86
Location: Plymouth, MN | I was just looking at them tonight. I think I'll give them a try too. |
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Posts: 4053
Location: Land of the Musky | DOMINATRIX Specifications:
* 11 inches long
* 3.5 oz. in weight
* Double #10 Colorado Blades
* Two 0.032" think premium Colorado blades
* Body wire is 0.062" diameter
* Premium saltwater mylar flash skirts
* Two 3x brass 7/0 musky treble hooks
* Heavy triple split rings
* Tail hook is shrink wrapped with electrical shrink tubing
* All metal silver spacers and beads for maximum flash
$14.99
http://www.gruntmuskielures.com/bigmuskiebucktails.html
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| I have had similar issues as msky3. The painted blades are problematic ! There are many times when i would prefer to use the painted blade, but not worth the hassle, they are guaranteed to stick together at least one out of every three casts, even if you engage the bucktail as soon as it hits the water. I think it's more of an issue with the paint than the other components as mentioned. I noticed this year at the shows that several of the manufactures have offered a stained or tinted color blades inlieu of the painted. Hoping this is a good alternative to the problem. |
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Posts: 1663
Location: Kodiak, AK | Check your clear coat on your blades. Sometimes it'll chip off pretty quickly after use. And here's my point- I got a crappy order of painted blades once that didn't have clear coat on them, but I went ahead and used them. I didn't think anything of it, built them and they were tough to get started. Blades with clear coat spin fine. As blades with clear coat chip, and leave enough bare paint, they can start to "stick." I can only guess it has to do with the increased surface tension on the "rough" blades without clear coat. I'm sure that over time, flattening of blades could add to it, but even a brand new blade without clear coat will give you issues. I'm just glad I noticed it and culled them before they went out to customers. I'm now using these culls on my own baits I make for myself, but I have to pair them with a clear coat, or metallic blade to get them to spin.
I've experimented with double blades on flies, and even with the smaller sizes (usally 6), the slower speed and start up pull, you have to have clear cloat blades to get them to spin. Painted blades without clear coat won't hardly start at all on a fly.
Could be several reasons for blades not spinning, but I know that clear coat or not will have an affect as much as anything else, and is easily rectified. |
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Posts: 496
| Just tried the S shaped 1 piece clevis and was NOTimpressed. They didnt seem to work as well as reg. ones. I used it with double 8's but will try 10's soon . Hopefully they will do better. Also with the wire having to go through 3 holes , if they were not all 3 perfectly inline they would bind up and you would get o spin . ARGGG ! I was hoping these would keep me from swearing so much |
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