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Posts: 114
Location: Central Wisconsin | This is my process:
1. Machine bait and sand the wood blank. I use white or red cedar.
2. Epoxy in screw eyes, lips, blades, etc
3. Seal with 2-3 coated of sanding sealer. It is water based
4. Prime with white paint - plain acrylic white paint
5. Finish painting as needed, install eyes
6. 2-3 coats of E-tex, more as needed (on a drying wheel)
I am using the acrylic paints thinned down in order to shoot through my air brush
my problem is that the finish paint doesn't adhere to the white base coat (they are the same brand), as such my finish paint and the etex aren't staying put where they should be. If I bend a tail prop or adjust a line tie the finish paint and the etex moves around.
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Posts: 225
Location: Nordeast Minneapolis | Your process sounds pretty much the same as mine... Although I've been using a 2X matte white spray paint as my base coat. I think it's made by rustoleum? Cheap (~$3 a can) and easy to find at the big box hardware shops, dries in about 30 minutes, and covers really well. And I use createx paint out of the airbrush. Maybe try a test lure with a different base paint and a random createx (or other) airbrush paint, and see if you get better adhesion? Can you tell if the paint is sticking before you put the e-tex on?
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Posts: 1207
Location: Pigeon Forge TN. | I'm not much on water based paints as mine are all solvent based. Try a can of auto non sanding primer on the wood first. make sure you are putting the additional coats of what ever color you are using on within 24 hours. If you wait more than 24 hours you would probably need an adhesion promoter.
But like I said, water based may be different. Lots of guys on here use water based and should be able to help you out otherwise. |
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Posts: 114
Location: Central Wisconsin | As far as seeing if the paint is stuck good before the etex, I guess I'm not real sure. I have a phobia about the oil on my hands reacting and leaving bare spots in the top coat, so I don't touch what I don't have to. For educational purposes, I guess I could paint one up and take it apart, the paint is not bubbled however. I will try both of the spray cans suggested above. |
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Posts: 1207
Location: Pigeon Forge TN. | One other thing to make sure of is that the paints are compatible with each other, after re-reading your post, it sounds to me like your finish coat isn't bonding to your white acrylic. You can also use an auto white instead of the acrylic and see if that helps. They aren't that expensive.
One good rule of thumb if you use the auto paints, you can spray enamel over lacquer but NOT lacquer over enamel. |
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Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | if the paint is not dry it will not stick very good, waterbased paints need to be air dried for a while or heat dried. Make sure your paint area is warm enough or take the baits where it is to dry. light sanding might be in order also on the primmer. |
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Posts: 114
Location: Central Wisconsin | Stan- Do you use the auto white over the sanding sealer, or as a stand alone sealer/primer??
Roger - It was pretty warm where I was painting. My wife wife was supposed to be Christmas shopping but got home early and caught me painting at the new kitchen table, I swore I had a couple hours to spare. You should have seen the look on her face.
Thanks for the help guys - I will post pics soon I hope |
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Posts: 501
Location: Norway | A friend and I uses the same wood, same sealant, same primer, same airbrush paint and same clearcoat. He experiences alot that the clear/paint doesnt stick. The main difference in our aproach is that I let everything dry for at least 24 hours before putting on the next. Its slower yes, but Ive never had the problems he have had. So it could be, as Roger W. implies, that the various stages havent dried enough.
Michael |
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