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| Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page] More Muskie Fishing -> Basement Baits and Custom Lure Painting -> Getting cranks to run correct??? |
anzomcik |
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Posts: 531 | |||
| GMan |
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Posts: 479 Location: Eden Prairie & Pine Island | |||
| Hoosierbaits |
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| Kingfisher |
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| anzomcik |
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Posts: 531 | What the bait was doing was spinning along its axis, So as you can see i drilled 4 holes to put in my brass weights, i also cut a steeper angle on the nose of the bait where the lip attaches, thinking that a higher tow point could help with the spinnin out issue in combination with the weights. After some trial the best combo was to use two brass weights in the furthest back part of the bait. But it still ran out to make the bait unusable. When i say unusable it would have motion for three four pumps and them spin out and not recover. So not to screw with it to much while we were fishing, i took some fluro leader i had and tied it to my front hook screw and put on that rubbercore sinker. This got the bait to run well enough, it would not spin out with the sinker on my normal 3.5-4.3 troll and can be trolled to 4.8 before it blew out (i got a little hook rash already on her, but no teeth marks) The bait ran all over the place, i like that, but borderline to much. It is a fairly large bait at 9 inches long and weight (guess) 6oz at least, will not float. Tiger birch was the wood i used. Attachments ----------------  100_1507 bait.jpg (98KB - 108 downloads) | ||
| Kingfisher |
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| The biggest problem I see is the angle of the wood where the lip is attached. You have moved the lip up to a more central position which in my opinion would cause it to spin. The second is the lip itself. The tow eye is way behind the end of the lip which causes tuning problems even with that wire attached the lure still pulls from a point behind the end of the lip. In my experience ,lets say you screw an eye into the nose of the bait and move the lip back. This will stabilize the lure. The further back you move the lip from the pulling point the less the lure will move. The further forward past the pulling point the more the lure will move until it is impossible to tune. Jakes for instance have the lip behind the tow eye which is done to make them all run (even if they dont catch fish) they will run. Us guys who make them one at a time like to push that edge of stability. A lure running on the ragged edge of blowing out flat out catches fish. I tried weighting trolling lures and have found that lighter is better in a trolling crank. Balsa, cedar, Mahogany, Bass wood and other light woods like those are best used for trolling lures. All of my trolling cranks float. Try the same body out of cedar and just put enough weight in the belly to make it sit upright in the water. Level out the bottom where the lip is installed and it should run better. Mike p.s. see the attached picture of one of my mag slashers. Note the way the lip is located to the end of the tow eye. This lure requires zero weight and will run to 6 mph. If you can find a happy spot somewhere in between you should be fine. Edited by Kingfisher 8/15/2010 10:44 AM Attachments ---------------- mag slasher olive frog.JPG (11KB - 103 downloads) | |||
| anzomcik |
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Posts: 531 | |||
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