|
|
| I have a few problems with the clear coat I use. I use Etex from Menards and It' dosen't want to stick to itself on mutiple coats. Even after sanding and reapplying when it's a little tacky. Is this what 'blushing is'? Any suggestions on a better clear coat epoxy? The bubble issues with this junk is an issue as well. I tried breathing, torches and degassing. I need a better quality clear coat. Any word on this Nu Lustre 55? Where can I get this?
Any help would be fantastic....yes fantastic. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 230
| Etex is a very good lure topcoat when used correctly. I'm not implying that your using it incorrectly, but when clearcoating a lure there are a couple preparations steps that can help the epoxy bond much better to the lure. First, wipe down your lure with denatured alcohol before you put the epoxy coat on, and hold the lure with gloves. Second, make sure you positively measure an equal 50/50 ratio of both parts. Mix well, I mix for 3 minutes. Then, allow the etex to degas by placing some sort of cover over the mixing cup (I use a scrap piece of Lexan) and let it sit anywhere from 10 to 15 minutes, i normally let it sit around 11 depending on size of the bait. Then, apply as you normally would. The epoxy should level better and go on thicker. Also, you will have noticeably less bubbles. To get another layer of etex to bond to a first, it is essential to wipe the first with alcohol. Some guys like to scuff the first coat, but I don't think this is necessary. You can thank Fatfingers for all of this help haha, he is the one I learned from. As far as Nu Lustre, I have not tried it yet but i Have heard good things. Don't stop using etex yet though...IMHO its the best lure topcoat out there for muskie lures.
Thanks, Zach |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | Randy, there is nothing wrong with etex. The bubbles can easily be removed with a torch. If you are getting "dimples" then it is a contamination problem. If you are getting bubbles coming from underneath then you need to use a wood sealer and primer.
There is no need to sand between coats and you don't need to worry about adhesion even if the coating has cured. If it's cured, simply go over the coating with a clean paper towel and some rubbing alcoho and apply the second coat.
Etex is excellent but like any clear coat there is a learning curve.
Jed |
|
| |
|
Posts: 235
| The two posts above this one pretty much say it all. I have been using Etex for years & I have had very good results. The only thing I can think of is that maybe you are touching the lure with your bare hands & could be getting body oil where you touch the lures. Also make sure you mix in equal amounts. I use disposable plastic syringes that I get from a veternarian clinic. Mark them so you use the same one for the hardner & the same one for the resin each time you mix a batch. I use the same syringes for over a year now & have not had any problems. I hope this helps. If you have any questions email me & I'll see if I can help you out further. Ken |
|
| |
|
Posts: 76
| I have been using Etex for over 10 years and agree with all the above. I want to ask something though that might be related to Randy's issue. I have gotten Etex that I returned to Menards. It didn't matter what I did I could not get it to setup correctly mainly stayed tacky. Anybody have any thoughts on the shelf life of this product? It discolors over time and I pay attention not to buy any that has the golden to yellow color from setting on the shelf.
Don |
|
| |
