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Posts: 45
| We made some double 10 lures last summer and had some issues with the blades bending where they attach to the clevis. The blades were painted #10 blades. When the paint wore off around the clevis, it looked like brass color?
We are pulling these with a Trinidad, so there is some pressure on the blade, but they shouldn't bend.
Anybody else have this issue?
Can you recommend a place to buy painted blades that won't bend?
Thanks! |
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Posts: 709
Location: sun prairie,wi | do you have any clue what gage blades you were useing..... .25 or .40 |
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Posts: 646
Location: In a shack in the woods | Almost all of my .25 blades warp under use. I just twist them back and keep fishing. I've still caught fish with them. |
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Posts: 3518
Location: north central wisconsin | There are a number of blade 'grades' if you will. I like both the .25 and .4 for completely different reasons. My buddy builds the AC-10 bucktails and he had a run of blades a couple years ago from company x, that were the painted over brass that were very weak/pliable. Most of the painted over brass he's gotten lately have been strong batches but he is careful which ones he orders. Funny because certain colors come in painted nickel and they have been very strong. Some of the cupping differs among blade batches(types) too, and sometimes the doubles won't start as fluidly if matched with another blade that doesn't pair well. I am not saying the blades have to be the same as we run two different types on many/most lures, but some cup styles/blade styles won't spin the best together. You might call Dick Moore some time as he usually keeps a pretty good pulse of the best blades out there at any given time. |
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| you can usually clamp them in a vice grip and fix/straighten them pretty well, most colors seem to be painted over brass, eventually they'll just be too weak to hold the correction and need to be replaced but you can get many more casts out of them if you correct them with the vice grip |
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Posts: 8781
| Even the thicker blades will wear out over time. By the time the blades wear out, most of the tinsel/hair/etc is gone, and the wire has been straightened so many times I figure it's time to replace the lure anyway. |
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Posts: 1220
| I know I have chimed in on this before, but one of the nice things about the original DCG's is that the blades are nickel silver. It's a form of brass that includes (expensive) nickel which gives it more stiffness. It's what is common to use for the keys on your key ring and often called "key stock." It is much more difficult to twist your key off in a lock than with ordinary brass. It's a high quality component and NO, I don't get a discount or samples for saying this. And, yes, I x-rayed it for the heck of it and I am sure-metal testing is part of being a "Junkman." I pay for the original, then buy the replacement wires so I can rebuild them after a catch or two. Marty Forman |
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Posts: 45
| Thanks for the replies. The blades in question were .025. The whole blade was not bending, just the area around the clevis. The end result is the blade rotated closer to the shaft.
I have noticed that the DC-10 blades swing out more, which is what I want. Anybody know of nickel blades that are painted?
Steve |
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