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Posts: 240
| Anyone using Royal purple in there 4 stroke's?
How about Amsoil?
Thinking of using one of the two oils in my F150 Yamaha.
Thanks
Cory |
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Posts: 309
Location: Elgin IL | I have always used 15w 50 Mobil 1 in my old 140 and the new 150 Suzy |
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Posts: 14
| Been using Amsoil 10W-30 in my F115 for 3 years with no problems. |
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| FWIW - I guess I could never understand why one would use any oil other than the OEM oil in an expensive outboard. What are you gaining or trying to gain? As to the guy using Mobil 1 how would you know that the oil isn't causing premature wear? You'd find out once you seized a piston.
And for the record, I use Citgo Sea & Snow in my older Polaris 2S snowmobile to save money. BUT I can rebuild the motor myself for a couple hundred dollars if I had two. But what drove me to this oil is that I know I guy who rebuilds sled engines and he has seen the insides of motors running this oil and he says it does just as good a job as the expensive OEM oils.
I have a Yamaha 4S sled that I run only Yami oil in, and I have 7000 trouble free miles on it. Compression is still at stock levels and as a borescope revealed, there is no abnormal scuffing to to be found. It would be expensive to repair this motor.
My snowblower and lawn tractor have 0W-40 Amsoil in them but these are not big dollar motors.
I am a huge believer in synthetic oils, but used in the right applications.
Just my .02!
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Posts: 1663
Location: Kodiak, AK | Why not run 4M? I use it in my F225 Sport, and ran 2M in my VMAX. |
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Posts: 1096
Location: Hayward, WI | If you are going to run a non-OEM oil at least make sure it has the FC-W rating on it. |
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Posts: 14
| Ifishskis - 11/4/2009 9:41 AM
FWIW - I guess I could never understand why one would use any oil other than the OEM oil in an expensive outboard. What are you gaining or trying to gain? As to the guy using Mobil 1 how would you know that the oil isn't causing premature wear? You'd find out once you seized a piston.
And for the record, I use Citgo Sea & Snow in my older Polaris 2S snowmobile to save money. BUT I can rebuild the motor myself for a couple hundred dollars if I had two. But what drove me to this oil is that I know I guy who rebuilds sled engines and he has seen the insides of motors running this oil and he says it does just as good a job as the expensive OEM oils.
I have a Yamaha 4S sled that I run only Yami oil in, and I have 7000 trouble free miles on it. Compression is still at stock levels and as a borescope revealed, there is no abnormal scuffing to to be found. It would be expensive to repair this motor.
My snowblower and lawn tractor have 0W-40 Amsoil in them but these are not big dollar motors.
I am a huge believer in synthetic oils, but used in the right applications.
Just my .02!
Because with the wealth of information available on oil qualities and oil tests done these days, I guess I don't know why someone would pay big bucks for overpriced OEM oils when they can get a superior synthetic for nearly the same price. Outboards aren't even that expensive in the whole scheme of things. Go look at what the offshore guys or the performance car guys are using. They have WAY more money into their "pits" than we do. Almost all of these guys are using some sort of aftermarket synthetic oil except for maybe a few who have big dollar, big HP factory power and are still under warranty. I broke in my motor per Yamaha's specs(beat her a little bit harder to seat the rings) on Yamalube and as soon as she was broken in the Amsoil went in. I guess if I throw a main bearing or something I'll always wonder, but I'm pretty confident that it will do just fine considering I have been putting Amsoil in another boat of mine with a 454 ci. and it's got nearly 600 hard hours on her with no problems. |
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Posts: 271
Location: davis,IL | I've been running 10w - 30 Mobil 1 since just after "break in" on my '03 75hp Yammie without a single problem. The key to the synthetic oils is to start running them when the motor is "new and tight"... meaning simply... on 4strokes you follow your "break in" with factory oil as laid out in the manual (10 hours, to "seat the rings and camshafts"). Then switch to the synthetic oil and run it all the time afterwords basically following the manuals specs (100 hours between changes). If you follow the basic oil change schedule as prescibed by the "manual" you will notice that the synthetic motor will run better and cleaner (oil color) than a simular motor run on non-synthetic factory oil run in the same conditions.
Edited by muskydope 11/15/2009 2:55 AM
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