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| Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page] More Muskie Fishing -> Basement Baits and Custom Lure Painting -> Batch of Blanks |
Yake Bait |
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Posts: 388 | The weekend weather was pretty nice so I spent a few hours in the garage this weekend making a set of 8" glide lure bodies. Generally I go 1 by 1 on lures but there is a lot of time savings when making a batch of lures at once. These should keep me busy until the ice thaws and I can get the boat out. Cabin fever is starting to set in so this is the only cure right now...
I've got to get a set of twitch lures in the cue as well before the ice thaws. Edited by Yake Bait 3/9/2009 9:23 PM Attachments ----------------  IMG_1253b.JPG (47KB - 826 downloads) IMG_1249b.JPG (35KB - 355 downloads) | ||
| tmusky |
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| Beaver |
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| Yake Bait |
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Posts: 388 | |||
| tmusky |
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| Muskerboy |
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| Yake Bait |
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Posts: 388 | Thanks guys. Had a few PM's with questions about the through wire technique used so I thought I'd put up a few pic's of how I do it. Lure blank has a 5/64" tunnel bored through with an additional 1/4" bored out of the nose and tail tail to allow the tail loop to be pushed in far enough to make the wraps on the nose loop. The nose loop gets pushed back in to hide the loops inside the bait. Belly loops are hung from the main through wire which is threaded from tail to nose before making the nose loop. These are also housed in 1/4" holes. Edited by Yake Bait 3/10/2009 9:06 PM Attachments ---------------- IMG_1256b.JPG (51KB - 316 downloads) IMG_1257b.JPG (43KB - 269 downloads) IMG_1258b.JPG (39KB - 276 downloads) IMG_1259b.JPG (41KB - 342 downloads) | ||
| Yake Bait |
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Posts: 388 | To lock the wire in place, I start by exposing the nose loop and filling the 1/4" bore with 5 min epoxy using a tooth pick to pump it into the cavity. The nose loop is pushed into the epoxy allowing it to flow around the wire loops and eventually locking the wire into the wood much like screw threads. I then flip over and fill the tail loop 1/4" bore with epoxy. The epoxy flows around the wire locking the tail end in place as well. Belly loops are done the same way. Some light palm sanding cleans up any excess epoxy. Epoxy does not actually bond to the wire (it is too smooth), but by allowing it to flow around the wire loops and bonding into the wood grain it all locks into place as well as sealing up the internals of the lure. Lead holes are also filled with epoxy to contour to the original profile of the lure. Edited by Yake Bait 3/10/2009 8:56 PM Attachments ---------------- IMG_1261b.JPG (39KB - 340 downloads) IMG_1262b.JPG (37KB - 299 downloads) IMG_1263b.JPG (36KB - 337 downloads) IMG_1264b.JPG (53KB - 305 downloads) | ||
| tmusky |
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| tmusky |
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| muskyhunter63 |
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| ShaneW |
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| Muskerboy |
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| Yake Bait |
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Posts: 388 | Shane, First I make the tail loop and thread the straight end throug the lure. The tail loop can be pushed in flush to the end of the lure through the 1/4" bore giving enought room to make a loop on the nose end. Nose end gets filled with epoxy then is pushed back in before the epoxy sets. Tail loop and belly loops then get filled with epoxy. Once set, the epoxy bridges between the inside end of the wire loops and the step between 1/4" and 5/64" bores. The strength comes from the compression between the wire loops and step in bore (wire cannot be pulled through). Hopefully the attached drawing helps to illustrate. Attachments ---------------- IMG_1268b.JPG (64KB - 262 downloads) | ||
| Don |
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Posts: 131 Location: Southwest Ohio | |||
| rustyman |
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| fatfingers |
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| ShaneW |
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| BruceKY |
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Posts: 392 Location: KY | |||
| Yake Bait |
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Posts: 388 | Rusty, I scribe a line on the side of the blank that I use to aligh the lure as I clamp it in a vice on my drill press table. I use a standard size bit, then switch to a 6" bit to get past the 1/2 way point. I then flip the lure and repeat the same process. It all boils down to precisely clamping the lure in alignment with the drill bit , then clamping the vice to the drill press table in the correct spot before starting to drill. Also use sharp punch to locate the spot where I want t drill through on the nose an tail. This helpsto align he drill bit. A 5/64" bit works better than somethign smaller, less tendencey to wander. Edited by Yake Bait 3/12/2009 7:02 PM Attachments ---------------- IMG00270b.jpg (32KB - 311 downloads) | ||
| Brian |
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| Yake Bait |
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Posts: 388 | |||
| FISH WITH TEETH |
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| muskyslayer96 |
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Posts: 615 Location: Madison, WI | |||
| Yake Bait |
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Posts: 388 | |||
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