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Posts: 131
Location: Southwest Ohio | I would like to hear some ideas on when to use clearcoat with hardner and when to use epoxy. My opinion would be to use the epoxy on the wooden baits. I am not a lure maker but have a good time with painting blanks and doing repaints. I have done plastic and wood but I am not set up to do the epoxy. I use strickly a urethane clearcoat (5 coats) with a medium fast activator and a hardner added. I have had very good results doing this. Can anyone comment?
Thanks,
Don
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Posts: 303
Location: Not where I want to be! | What is the brand of the clear coat with activator, and can it be bought in small quanities?
Does it hold on enamels?
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Posts: 1530
| depends on what you are painting.. wood plastic, foam. metal. every clear has its good values. |
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Posts: 121
| I have always used epoxy on my jerkbaits with no complaints. But now I am starting to make crankbaits and the epoxy seems to heavy for some of the smaller baits. It kills the action. Could you suggest a good clear coat I could try. Something I could get in a small amount just to see if I like it or not. My baits are made of cedar and painted with Createx.
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Posts: 4266
| I use a clear coat for walleye lures instead of Etex because of the obvious weight factor. It is hard to find one that will hold up as well, but the 2 that I like are...spray-on Envirotex in a can. Don't try to do it all in one coat, use several thin ones. I also use a 3-part from House of Kolor that is an automotive clear, and it is tough. I make sure to have plenty of the reducer on hand for clean-up and for thinning. It dries fast with the right reducer, and has a pot life that is long enough to do several lures at one time. It's too cold to go check the name, so you'll have to search their website. It also dries without being too brittle which can be a problem. You don't want to waste your time clearcoating lures just to have the coating be too rigid and chip off. It has to be flexible.....unlike my ex-wife.
Beaver
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Posts: 131
Location: Southwest Ohio | I will post the brand that I use tomorrow. All of my supplies are moved to my shop in the winter. It is an automotive clear but not the House of kolors brand. It is also a three part mix. Clear, activator and hardner. I also spray only thin coats, five is what I use unless I shoot some flake on the baits, I may go a couple more. From past experience I have noticed the clear seems to be softer when we apply heavy coats.
Don |
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Posts: 4266
| Sounds like similar stuff to me. I've found that 3-part to be the toughest this finish that you can put on a lure. I wish it had a longer pot life, I only shoot very small batches and very fast at that so I don't plug the brush.
Beav |
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Posts: 131
Location: Southwest Ohio | Medallion Acrylic Urethane RS2600VQ
Medallion Acrylic Actvator RS2260-8
RM ur-40 Reducer
This is the 3 part we use. Small batches and do not leave in gun. That is unless you need a new gun anyway.
Dob |
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Posts: 120
| In My opinion the epoxy on plastic lures is overkill and really not necessary. If this is the only way you can finish/clear your lures then id suggest just 1 coat as thin as possible The plastic gives the bait its durability and you really don’t need to worry about the hooks wearing down to the plastic and ruining the rest of bait. Epoxy weighs allot and it could really change the action of the lure. Some of the epoxy finishes iv seen must ad at least an ounce and that weight must be considered when designing or refinishing the lure.
Wood lures really need the extra durability of epoxy to keep the hook wear from reaching the bear wood. Once that happens its just a matter if time until it starts to rot or disrupt the finish. The most important thing is to have good adhesion of the primer to surface. the base coat to primer. and the clear coat to base coat. Most of my finishes just get 1 good coat of a high solid clear. I like to try to keep a thin mil on my finishes.
So to answer your question
Wood = Epoxy
Plastic= Urethane Clear
Keith
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | I agree with you Keith. Past experience with testing lures has consistently shown that those with a thin coat work better than those with a thick coat. Ever test a wood glider with no clearcoat on it? They run great! But, buyers love that perty thick clear coat.
Is there such as thing as a one part Urethane Clearcoat? I know there are one part UV Lacquers.
RM
Edited by RiverMan 1/29/2009 9:35 PM
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Posts: 4266
| Jed hit it on the head along with Keith. Thin is better, especially on plastic, but I quit turning my lures a long time ago and went with multiple coats of E-Tex instead. When you over-weight a wood glider you take away the life of the wood that makes the lure dance and wobble. You're right Jed, guys love that mega-thick topcoat, but several thin coats will work as well if the owner will keep up the maintenance on chips and tooth marks and T their hooks, the extra weight definitely has a negative impact on the action of a wood lure.
Beav
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Posts: 131
Location: Southwest Ohio | Thanks guys, My painting partner and I have learned a few things since we started painting last winter. We do not make our own baits, just do some repaints and do up some new blanks. At first we thought thicker was better but have figured out thin is the way to go. Mutiple coats of clear and we scuff with a ultra fine scotch brite pad between coats. That seems to work for us just fine. We use a metal flake quite a bit and it will take a few coats to smooth the finish.
Thanks for the input,
Don |
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Posts: 46
| i,ve used basically every type of clear at some time or another, and my favorites would include cs coatings 2 part water thin epoxy and dupont nason 2k automotive clear, however, both of these are so strong, oder that is, that i was getting light headed even with a mask and a fan in a paint booth, the nason clear is very, very durable, as is the cs coatings 2 part, i used to buy the cs stuff for under 100$ a gallon, it's almost doubled in price in the last few years, so i'm sticking to the dupont for now, i do use e-tex or flex coat on gliders and twitch baits once in a while, but i'm just not totally into the thick stuff, for a long time though, i've taken the etex and thin it down with acetone to almost water, and soak the wood bodies in it to seal, and it gives wood the durability of plastic, under the paint, while still having the character of wood, the nason i just purchased with the hardner was 41$a qt., gallons are 92$w/hardner, rylure |
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