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Posts: 134
Location: East TN | I'm sure this has been asked, but I used the search and couldn't seem to find what i'm looking for. I'm just wondering if there are any good online write-ups on how to make your own bucktails, marabou tails, flashabou, etc? I've seen a few people suggested buying a DVD that someone sold, but i'm not even sure i'm up for it....I'd just kinda like to get an idea on whats involved. I've tied Float N' Fly jigs for smallmouth and have a vise, bobbin, and all that....just not sure about what all is involved in making a good "body" for bucktails. Anyways, If anyone knows where I might find something like this, or have tips for me that'd be great.
BTW, I'm a real visual person, so pics would be great if possible. |
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Posts: 169
| This can get you started
http://www.luremaking.com/howto/index.htm
Brad |
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| if you've tied and have the basic tying skill you've got everything you need. get some coil and go at it, you'll be fine. biggest thing to get down is correct spacing when you build your final product, have fun |
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Posts: 134
Location: East TN | Guest - 10/30/2008 12:50 PM
biggest thing to get down is correct spacing when you build your final product, have fun
That is the main thing i'm wondering about. How is the best way to judge it to make sure my bait isn't gonna come out too long, or short?
What i'm shooting for is basically a slightly smaller version of a Double Cowgirl...using flashabou and the entire bait being about 8-10 inches long. And using #8 colorado's. I love the look of these baits, but I just hate the thought of spending 25-30 bucks on the dang things. 
Also not quite sure about working with the flashabou and how exactly to tie it to the sleeve. |
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| you're #8 blades with flashabou would be a good way to start - very simple bait with room for error. when you get spacing right, it just looks and works right. you can usually tell if the hooks are too close or too far, or your clumps of flashabou are too far apart or too close. one or two beads in certian spots can make all the difference. wire shafts are cheap - tie, test, tie, test - and you'll know when you have it right.
lots of ways to tie flashabou, zip ties, rubber skirt holder bands, i wrap thread around the coil to form a good thread base and make it bigger (more wraps) on the ends to form a little trough for the flash to lay down in. flash is actually one of the easier materials to tie with. take a clump and make a few wraps or secure it before you cut it from the main clump - if you wet it, it'll stick together and allow you to secure it to the coil before you spread it out. |
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Posts: 134
Location: East TN | Guest - 10/30/2008 1:33 PM
you're #8 blades with flashabou would be a good way to start - very simple bait with room for error. when you get spacing right, it just looks and works right. you can usually tell if the hooks are too close or too far, or your clumps of flashabou are too far apart or too close. one or two beads in certian spots can make all the difference. wire shafts are cheap - tie, test, tie, test - and you'll know when you have it right.
lots of ways to tie flashabou, zip ties, rubber skirt holder bands, i wrap thread around the coil to form a good thread base and make it bigger (more wraps) on the ends to form a little trough for the flash to lay down in. flash is actually one of the easier materials to tie with. take a clump and make a few wraps or secure it before you cut it from the main clump - if you wet it, it'll stick together and allow you to secure it to the coil before you spread it out.
How exactly does the flashabou come when you buy it? Does it come in a "clump" of individual strands? What length strands should I look for for the size bait i'm talking about making? Should 10" be fine? |
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| comes in a big clump with a staple in the top to hold it together. one packaged clump is usually good for two separate tail clumps/ties. 10" will be fine - there again, you'll know when it's right and can trim some off the bottom if need be. you can make a bong out of anything and you can make a bucktail out of anything - it's just trial and error. go to the store and take a close look at a few different bucktails, you'll get some good ideas on spacing and technique |
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Posts: 134
Location: East TN | Guest - 10/30/2008 1:53 PM
comes in a big clump with a staple in the top to hold it together. one packaged clump is usually good for two separate tail clumps/ties. 10" will be fine - there again, you'll know when it's right and can trim some off the bottom if need be. you can make a bong out of anything and you can make a bucktail out of anything - it's just trial and error. go to the store and take a close look at a few different bucktails, you'll get some good ideas on spacing and technique
Yeah, I'm going to Gander Mtn tomorrow, which is why I asked this today. I'll have to take a look at a few different things. May even buy a few things to get started with.
Thanks again for the tips!
Edited by BubbaTn 10/30/2008 1:13 PM
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Posts: 134
Location: East TN | Ok, Got another question.....Just yesterday I modified a Mepps Musky Marabou spinner I had. I noticed how it was constructed. It had in-line trebles (with a "trailing" piece of wire that was attached to the front hook attaching the rear hook). And on alot of the homemade ones i'm seeing have a single treble in the back, and another treble above that, only the "top hook" is attached using split-rings attached to the shaft instead of in-line. Are there an advantage to one or the other, or is it basically just how you prefer? |
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| there again , it's all about the spacing. i like the hooks attached by split rings so they can swing freely and won't tourqe out of a fish as easy, and for the bigger bucktails you'll probably end up using the split ring method. |
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Posts: 271
Location: davis,IL | I've been tieing my "own" for over 20 years now. For baits 8" and less a single treble works just fine, just make sure you use quality components. I use .051" wire on inlines and .072" on spinnerbaits, for split rings, either wolverine or Bucher super rings, hooks, nothing smaller than 5/0 in at least a 2X strong. Most of "my baits" fit into this category and they are bulletproof. This is a JR CUSTOM 10 SPIN, .072" wire, 9/0 single hook, 5/0 2X Treble, #10 blades, 150# swivel, Bucher super split rings.
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 JR CUSTOM 10 SPIN.jpg (41KB - 126 downloads)
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Posts: 271
Location: davis,IL | Here's some inlines, .051" wire, Bucher super split rings, 6/0 and 7/0 hooks. I also use a homemade keel weight to minimize line twist on all my "Bucktails". Weight wise all "Bucktails" fall in between 1.5 -3 oz. dry.
Top; JR CUSTOM DUECE 10 ORANGE
MIDDLE; JR CUSTOM DUECE 9 BLACK
BOTTOM; JR CUSTOM DUECE 8 FIRETIGER
The second picture is another JR CUSTOM 10 SPIN in Whitefish, (the first post was Smallmouth). I've also included a "spin blank" in the pic to demonstrate the single hook and basic construction of my baits.
Edited by muskydope 11/2/2008 1:26 AM
(JR CUSTOM 10 SPIN 002.jpg)
(JR CUSTOM 10 SPIN 003.jpg)
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JR CUSTOM 10 SPIN 002.jpg (53KB - 159 downloads)
JR CUSTOM 10 SPIN 003.jpg (40KB - 134 downloads)
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| nice spinnerbait head design,and i like the way you twist you wire.let me suggest you two things,remove the treble hook,only the single will do the job,and make sure your blade dont exceed,the last hook,you will lost less fish and the boo will move lots more.
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Posts: 271
Location: davis,IL | The design of the spinnerbaits with the extra long arm are for a purpose, bulging the surface. I tried a shorter arm design but they made nowhere near the commotion a long arm makes. The long arm raises about a 4" wake while being "bulged". The treble hook is placed as close to the blades as possible to hook the fish that are hitting the blades and not the body. I found that the fish were often more interested in the blades than the rest of the lure. I'm going to take a video and post it one of these days, you'll see what I mean.
Edited by muskydope 11/2/2008 2:00 PM
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Posts: 271
Location: davis,IL | here's the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kl1_vNGRjEg |
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Posts: 134
Location: East TN | Thanks for the pics muskydope! You wouldn't happen to have a picture of an assembled bucktail without the "skirt" tied on would ya? |
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| If you look at the Whitefish bait you'll see the basic form without the final wire bends, treble, and blades. I cast the heads and keel weight myself, prepaint the head, and then tie directly to the wire/single hook. After tieing the "skirt", I finish my wire bends and put a couple coats of clear on the head and wrap. After drying I install the blades and treble. I basically tie the inlines the same way, I start with a straight piece of wire, bend my loop at the hook end, and cast my keel weight. Then I tie the skirt directly to the shaft, add the cast body, beads, and blades. I finish by bending the top eye. I offset the bends and add the keel weight to keep the body of the bucktail from spinning with the blades. This allows me to tie to the shaft of the bait and arrange my colors much like you would on a crankbait. Wire coils on the other hand will rotate around on the shaft, for solid colors this is fine, but when trying to keep one color for the belly and another color for the back, you want to lock down the skirt on your non-rotating wire shaft.
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Posts: 134
Location: East TN | muskydope - 11/5/2008 6:29 PM
I start with a straight piece of wire, bend my loop at the hook end, and cast my keel weight. Then I tie the skirt directly to the shaft, add the cast body, beads, and blades. I finish by bending the top eye. I offset the bends and add the keel weight to keep the body of the bucktail from spinning with the blades.
Thanks!
Which part exactly is the keel weight, and which is the "cast body"? |
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Posts: 271
Location: davis,IL | This is a test rig here I threw together to test some blades I got. No feather or hair, just bent wire with poured lead keel weight and a poured "body" weight. I always test any new blades ( size, style, or different manufacturer) I get to ensure that when I tie one up for real I'll get the results I desire. If you look at the picture you will notice that my bends are not "offset", this is an old wire set up used just for testing.
Edited by muskydope 11/8/2008 12:28 AM
(JR CUSTOM 10 SPIN 007.jpg)
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JR CUSTOM 10 SPIN 007.jpg (52KB - 137 downloads)
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Posts: 134
Location: East TN | Thats awesome! Thanks alot! So that "body" is just a worm sinker, correct? Also, Could I substitute your "keel weight" for another worm sinker? Or is there a specific purpose you have your keel weight modeled like that? |
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Posts: 271
Location: davis,IL | The "body" is a bullet weight. Yes, you could substitute another for the rear weight. The purpose of the "keel" is to prevent the bucktail from spinning with the blades, which it will do if measures are not taken to stop it. |
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Posts: 2
| Thanks for all the great info. This something I would like to start doing as well. You get the double bonus when you 1. catch a fish on a lure you've made and 2. know that you didn't pay $25 for a spinner bait. I found this link as well that has some good photos: http://www.musky.com/Features/buckhome.htm |
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