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| Manual doesn't show how to remove them, as I really need pictures to help explain. I have zerc fittings on these. Lots of grease I need to clean out to see in there. What tools are needed? Can anyone shed light on how to take these out? Thanks in advance. |
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Location: Athens, Ohio | hoo-boy! Shep, I think, did an excellent job a few years back explaining this here; try the search feature. I bet Google will help you find pics, it's pretty much auto repair 101 level stuff.
You'll need a big flat screw driver and a big set of channel lock pliers. If you have bearing buddies, a hammer to thump them off. There's a cotter pin to remove, then the big nut comes off with the pliers. From there, I hesistate to explain, you might be best off going to a shop and having them remove, degrease, re-grease repack and install them so they are "dun-rite"! If you mess up, it's you out there on the Interstate. m |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
Not too hard to do...and I will do my best to keep it simple and straightforward
Tools needed: Hammer, Block of wood, needle nose pliars, large adjustable-end wrench, seal puller (if you have one)
Rags, and some type of mineral spirits in a container/bowl and a small brush (tooth brush works well)
Bearing packer.
1.) Loosen the lug nuts on the tire before jacking...jack and remove tire.
2.) With hammer in hand, spin the hub while tapping on the side of the "bearing Buddy". It will work it's way out nicely
and you won't distort the bearing buddy by doing so.
3.) Probably a bunch of grease on the end of the hub...take a rag and wipe off some. You should find a nut and a cotter
pin going through it. Take the needle nose pliars and bend the cotter pin straight. Then pull it out. This will free up the
castle nut and you can unscrew that. Wipe off as much grease as you can, then place in minerals spirits. Behind that you will find a thust washer (a spacer that also puts pressure on the outer bearing without damage) Remove that, wipe and put in mineral spirits.
4.) IF YOU HAVE A SEAL PULLER....pull on the whole hub assembly...it will slide right off...bearings and all.
4b.) IF you don't have a seal puller... Take out the outer bearing (just pull it out...clean it up and put in mineral spirits), but leave the hub in place. Put the thrust washer back on, then the castle nut. Then, with a couple of harder pulls, the seal in back will pop out and the bearing will come with it.
5.) Wipe down all parts (keep them in order, though...) and finally wash everything in mineral spirits. Let dry.
6.) Wipe down and clean the spindle on the trailer. Wash with mineral spirits...let dry. Time to repack...
Repack:
1.) Start with the inner bearing. Take a small gunk of grease and place it in the palm of your hand. Then, (and this will be hard to describe) holding the bearing wider side toward the grease, work grease into the bearing by pressing the bearing into the grease. continue to do so until grease comes out the top...It will be fully packed when grease starts to come out between the bearing and the bearing cage all the way around. Kind of like hamburger coming through a grinder. Make sure it is coming out all around on top...
1b.) If you have a bearing packer, follow instructions...the grease will come out everywhere when it's packed. These are really handy and quick.
2.) Lightly grease the inside of the inner hub. you will see a smooth face (called a race) where the bearing sits in. Drop
the bearing in.
3.) Place the seal (ride side in toward the bearing) over the opening, and with a block of wood and hammer, tap the seal
flush with the hub.
4.) Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the outer bearing and set aside on a clean surface for just a bit.
5.) Lightly grease spindle. then lightly grease the outer race on the hub, then place the hub on the spindle and push until you feel it "seat"
6.) Place a bit of grease between the hub and the spindle.
7.) Place outer bearing over spindle and slide into it's seat. Put on the thrust washer, then the castle nut.
8.) While spinning the hub, tighten the castle nut until you can barely turn the hub by hand. Then, back off the castle nut until the hub will spin freely again, but the hub cannot be pulled back and forth. Test as you go... If there is any "freeplay" you will feel it. Line up the castle nut with one of the holes in the spindle (the one that allows the least amount of "freeplay"...you might end up with just a touch) and insert a new cotter pin.
9. Bend the ends of the cotter pin so it cannot come out, you may find trimming the length of the cotter pin to be helpful.
10. Replace the "bearing buddy and tap the edges of the bearing buddy in with a hammer while you turn the hub. This will ensure the bearing buddy goes in straight. It is fully seated when you can hear a different tone to the hammering.
Replace wheel, tighten lugs, and repeat on other side.
Not too hard, but give yourself a couple of hours time if it is your first.
Hope this helps... |
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| I have done simple bearing setups before, but what is behind the zerc? Is it the stanard setup? How do I remove the zerc fitting? |
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| The reason I want to look them over is because when I added grease this fall one side took alot more than the other before being pushed thru and beacame visible. Makes me wonder if a seal is bad. I might just as well replace them if I take them apart. |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | See my directions...standard hub once the bearing buddy is off...
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Posts: 5874
| These don't sound like Bearing Buddies. Hopefully not.
They sound like the EZ-Lube hubs. These hubs have a drilled axle that the grease goes down, and is returned through the rear bearing out the front. There is a metal end cap on these that must be removed to get at the retainer and nut. Remove, pack bearings, and reinstall with new double lip seal, just like traditional bearings. When adding grease throughout the summer, rotate the wheel to add grease evenly.
Edited by Shep 12/3/2007 1:45 PM
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Posts: 8845
| Unless you have a bad seal, then, wouldn't you just use the existing (zerk) and not have to take anything apart? I might be wrong here, but isn't the whole idea of ez-lube hubs that all you have to do is grease them and go? |
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Posts: 5874
| Nope. I recommend that you service your bearings at least once, if not twice, per year, depending on usage. If you don't go every single weekend plus days, you can probably get away with once in the fall, when you put your rig up for the year. If you're on the go all through the year, like me, I pull them apart, check and repack around the middle of July, also. Just to be safe. When I use the EZ-Lube, it's once every two weeks, and then it's just a little bit. Watch for water coming out with the old grease, and rotate the wheels as you add the new grease. I never use the EZ-Lube to push all new grease through.
Knock on wood, but I haven't had a bearing issue since 1983! That's when I learned that Bearing Buddies aren't! In Marinette, on my way to Lake Nippising. That was an expensive lesson! |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hey shep...where is the extra grease coming out on those e-z lube hubs? I've never torn into one of those...it's piqued my interest.
Steve |
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| Yup, I have E-Z-Lubes, comes from the back bearing thru the front and out. I just wanted to know how these are removed. Do Bearing Buddies have a Zerc too? |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | yep...it's like a fancy "dust cap". I usually don't consider it anything more than a larger grease holder.
Steve |
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| They are Safe-T-Lube's. Book says to bend the tang washer to the free position, unscrew the spindle nut and remove the D-washer. Remove the hub from the spindle, being careful to not let the outer bearing fall out. That is all that is listed. No diagrams for this procedure. Has anyone played with these? The trailer is a 2001 and sat on the lot until I bought it in early 2006. They say it never left their lot. It's a Trailmaster I believe. After two seasons of use, I feel it's time to pull them to inspect. |
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Posts: 5874
| Safe T or EZ-Lube. One in the same. I'll try to post a pic.
Too simple of an explanation. There's a bit more to it. After putting the trailer up on jackstands, I remove the wheels from the hubs. Then you'll have to remove the metel end cap. I do this by gently tapping a flatblade screwdriver between it and the hub, rotating as you go. Twist the screwdriver to get the cap off, and put to the side. Wipe off excess grease, and expose the spindle nut and retainer. Be the tab that keeps the retainer on, and remove it. Then remove the nut, and the hub will come off. Clean and repack the bearings, clean the hub and metal end cap, and install new seal. Just like normal hub and bearings. Before reinstalling hub, give the zerk a few shots to remove any old grease in the axle passages. Clean axle, and you're ready to put it back together. Not too bad a job, I can do my tandem axle trailer in about an hour.
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 lube.jpg (15KB - 226 downloads)
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| That is the diagram in the paperwork I got from the dealer. I'll give ot a shot. Thanks for the tips. Is this thing going to come out in pieces or will the unit come out in one piece til I take it apart? Just curious that's all. |
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Posts: 5874
| Once you unscrew the spindle nut, the outer bearing will be free. The inner bearing is held on by the seal. I usually replace the seal when I service the bearings.
Edited by Shep 12/4/2007 3:31 PM
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| Just got in from jacking up the trailer/boat and putting it on stands. Took the tires off too. Inside one of the rims there is alot of black splotches, I assume it is grease. Seems like a seal went bad. After it took alot of grease thru the zerc to fill the seals and come out to be visible, I was questioning if I had a leak. Guess so. Could I have blown a seal just by injecting grease with the gun? |
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| My literature says to Permatex the outside of the new seal. Do you do this? Thanks for all the tips. After the first time it should become second nature, I hope..... |
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Posts: 5874
| Yep, you are getting grease past the seal. Maybe came out when you added, but why did you have to add so much in the first place. My guess is the seal is failing, or getting close to failing. Once you have things apart, and the bearings are clean, inspect them carefully for rust, pits, overheating. Do not mix bearings from different wheels. Do one wheel at a time to avoid mixing them up.
Some shops put Permatex(RTV) on the mating line formed by the seal and the hub. You would not put anything on the lip of the seal. Also, make sure you get double lip seals. |
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| I added some as sort of a test to make sure there was some in there, and when I did not see any being expelled I kept going til I did. I cant say I used the trailer after I did that so it must have been low or empty by then. Time to change them out. Thanks for your input Shep, it is really appriciated by this greenhorn. |
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