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Posts: 67
| First of all, I would like to applaud all the artists on this site!!! Incredible paint schemes, truly inspiring!! Will be posting some of my creations soon!
My question is, a friend of mine disolves plastic cups in lacquer thinner and subsequently dips his blanks in it prior to priming. As anybody else used this method?
I currently use a primer sealer.
What are your thoughts? |
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Posts: 50
| seeking 54 - 11/22/2007 6:33 AM
First of all, I would like to applaud all the artists on this site!!! Incredible paint schemes, truly inspiring!! Will be posting some of my creations soon!
My question is, a friend of mine disolves plastic cups in lacquer thinner and subsequently dips his blanks in it prior to priming. As anybody else used this method?
I currently use a primer sealer.
What are your thoughts?
I use Plastic pellets same brand & hardness as Rapala &many other European baitbuilders. The problem that might occur when using plastic cups is that it´s too brittle & the "skin" might crack & let water seep in to the wood .
If you dont dip enough times you will get a skin thats too thin to protect enough,
but thats my personal 0.2 cents |
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| The best sealer in my opinion is the clear resin epoxy sealer from Smith & Co, here you find more information about it:
http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/index.html
Its fast, easy to use and makes the wood rock-hard. The drawback is that it isnt very healthy so be careful.
cheers,
Mag/Sweden
www.mag.nu
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Posts: 4266
| Don't plastic cups have wax on them?
I read this post, and took a couple of plastic cups off the shelf in the basement, and I could scratch off a white substance with my fingernail. I'm just guessing that it's wax.
Might want to be careful. |
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Posts: 67
| Thanks for the replies! I noticed the cups my friend was using were opaque...might be wax. Will try to find some plastic pellets and also try with some clear plastic cups. Incidently, has anyone tried disolving dried out Envirotex or Nu lustre 55 in lacquer? Would be nice to be able to salvage some of that waste since it's so expensive.
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Posts: 910
Location: Hastings, mn, 55033 | If you use PLASTIC cups there shouldnt be a wax coating on them. Wax coating should be on paper cups.
The method works, but is kind of a pain in my opinion. I use it sometimes for smaller walleye size crankbaits, but prefer a spray on sealer/primer for musky baits.
If using the method with the plastic cups make sure to use VIRGIN lacquer thinner or you'll just end up with a glob of half melted plastic in the bottom of the jar. |
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Posts: 119
| I'm not too big on the plastic cup idea. I know people that have used it and have found that it shatters or cracks when cast onto anything hard. I have used prop pellets before and that would be a better option to go with. My favorite to this day is still Devcon 2 ton epoxy. It is great to work with and leaves a crystal clear rock hard finish. |
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Posts: 910
Location: Hastings, mn, 55033 | The plastic cup method is ONLY for a wood sealer prior to primer and paint. It IS NOT worth a s**t if used as a top coat, and I don't think it was intended for use as such.
Edited by castmaster 11/24/2007 11:49 AM
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Posts: 119
| oops I misread the thread. My bad  |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | I tried the plastic cup method and it worked well enough but not good enough that I was willing to hassle with it. Both sanding sealer and polycrylic work fine. The sealer is mostly necessary to seal the wood pores so that the primer has a smooth finish. No sealer will prevent the lure from being ruined if the clear coat is broken.
Jed V.
Edited by RiverMan 11/25/2007 10:52 AM
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Posts: 1530
| we use a lacquer sanding sealer. its fast and very dependable on cedars and softer woods. dry time is less then an hour. |
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Posts: 179
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan | I'm with Woodie, sanding sealer is much easier and better IMO. I tried the pellets and the plastic cups and you have to dip the bait numerous times with a drying period in between and it really is time consuming....but to each his own.
Rod |
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Posts: 1106
Location: Muskegon Michigan | On my small baits I use Zars Sanding sealer. It is Alcohol based and soaks into the wood real well. It sets up over night and I get a good base to paint over. I dip my lure blanks in the Zars for 5 to 10 seconds. I use what is called a dip tube. I make my own from coffee creamer containers. I can paint either water based or solvent paints over the Zars. On my big baits I use Kilz water based primer sealer and brush it on. That stuff is awsome. I do not have any splitting or cracking problems at all. Kingfisher |
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Posts: 16
| Mag - 11/22/2007 1:41 AM
The best sealer in my opinion is the clear resin epoxy sealer from Smith & Co, here you find more information about it:
http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/index.html
Its fast, easy to use and makes the wood rock-hard. The drawback is that it isnt very healthy so be careful.
cheers,
Mag/Sweden
www.mag.nu
this is a great product! I've been using it by trade in the field for a few years now and it works wonders. I've since brought it home to use on baits. With a syringe a little goes a long way. Great thing about the company is it's right down the way!
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