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Posts: 25
Location: MACHESNEY PARK IL | i posted a message a day ago about peeling and cracking lures .someone replyed it could be the type of primer im using i use zinsser b.i.n. primer is it the wrong primer to use .i use bass wood and also epoxy my eyes and screw eyes in place thanks wolf |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | I don't think that's the problem Wolf so long as you are letting it dry completely. Make sure you let the primer dry over night and then let the water based paints you are using dry completely also. Was the wood you used completely cured? The wood must be dry. Did you leave the lures in the hot sun? These are also possibilities.
There is nothing wrong with basswood and the process you have described so I can't really tell what caused the problem. I haven't personally used Crystal Sheen but have heard good things about it. I would suggest you build another one and see what happens...make sure the wood you are using is cured and allow ample drying times for all paints. Continue to epoxy in the screw eyes and you should be fine.
jed v.
bikini bait co.
Edited by RiverMan 7/9/2007 12:36 AM
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| He didn't say that he was using water-based paints.
He said acrylics.
That's the problem that I had. I used Zinser Coverstain, let it dry and then used acrylic lacquers. When my paint dried, the reducer in the paint sucked the Coverstain right out of the wood. I was told that by the tech people at Zinser after I sent them a lure that cracked and peeled and there was bare wood showing. I know the primer/sealer penetrated the wood, but the paint wasn't compatable with it, and all sorts of problems occured until I changed products.
If the wood is not white under the peeling parts, that is, if you can peel it off like a fish skin and the white comes off with everything else, it is getting sucked right out of the wood when the reducer in the paint evaporates. That is how it was explained to me by the people at Zinser and at House of Kolor.
Beav |
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Posts: 1106
Location: Muskegon Michigan | For soft woods and hard woods both I get great results with ZARS sanding sealer . This is a clear sealer that we dip our bodies in . After dipping them let them drip dry over night. Sand lightly with worn out 80 grit or 120 paper and then paint with base white. The sealer keeps everything on the lure. I have never had cracking or peeling except over hard Maple. I built a deep diving crankbait out of hard maple. The wood reacted to temperature change and exploded . Zars is a great product for Cedar, Bass wood, Oak and Cherry. I Use all Createx water based paints with envirotec top coats. No problems ever. Kingfisher |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | I am doing essentially the same thing you are Kingfisher.....sealer then primer, the createx, then etex. No problemo. I will add though that I have built lures with no sealer at all..just the primer. I still seal the lures now but to be honest I don't think it does a whole bunch of good. If water gets past your clear coat and primer the little bit of sealer probably isn't going to help much.
jed v.
Edited by RiverMan 7/10/2007 5:50 PM
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Posts: 1106
Location: Muskegon Michigan | Hi Jed, The Zars penetrates the woods surface. We dip them completly submerged in the Sealer. With the cedar baits its a must. It hardens the surface of the wood hence the name sanding sealer. This gives me a better base for my Base coats. I do not use a primer but go from the sanded sealer to the white base coat. It stays on real good. On the Deepthreats I use Kilz water based white primer. It soaks into the Cedar real nice as well. There are lots of good products that work. Kingfisher |
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