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| I am interested in making glide baits. After finding this great site and reading so much info and so many people being helpful I thought I might ask what should I buy so I don't have to waste money and time and just end up giving up. I made a list of everyting I think I need in this process if I have it right, if anyone would like to complete this list it with their best products go for it. Thanks for all the info.
1. wood
2. weight (what process)
3. filler for the weight
4. screw eyes (glue for them)
5. primer or sealer I'm not sure if I need both in the process
6. paint
7. clear coat
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| New builder, I think you might be asking too many questions. We all started and learned and progressed and then asked why certain things are not working...............Might be hard to get that much info at once....
Good luck with your project |
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Posts: 1529
| dig in and make firewood like so many before you. |
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| I thought at least I would try I'm just going to have to sort threw all the older post and come up with a list that works for me. Maybe one day I'll have some pics for you all and hopefully they have some action to em. |
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Posts: 619
Location: Verona, WI | New Builder,
A good start would be to check out www.lurebuilding.nl. I am not nearly as talented as the artists on this site but lurebuilding.nl helped me a lot. It's too bad they took down the forum as the discussions on that were amazing. The site does have a number of templates including designs, plans, and instructions that will give you starting points for making your own baits and you can evolve from there.
Shane |
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Posts: 910
Location: Hastings, mn, 55033 | another site that good for all around info is tackleunderground.com
you can find answers to many questions there. |
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| Thanx for the sites I might try to build the stalker it looks alot like a bikini beerbelly anyone had any succes with them. |
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Posts: 351
| 1. Poplar is very versatile. I use it a lot.
2. Experiment. Use a forstner bit to drill the holes; makes a nice clean hole. Many baits don't need any weighting. My cranks run fine with no weight at all.
3. Plumbers putty or "quicksteel" from Walmart
4. Screweyes can be ordered from Rollie and Helen's Musky Shop...Great people. You can use 5-minute Devcon epoxy to glue them in.
5. I use a sanding sealer and prime with Krylon. You need to both seal and prime.
6. I use enamels, most use a quality water-base paint such as Createx. Thin it down till it sprays a fine even mist; add thin layers. Be patient, go slow. Be patient, go slow, and be patient go slow!
7. Two choices are Devcon 2ton epoxy and Envirotex. Both are extremely popular and relatively easy to use. Order some "acid brushes" to apply the stuff. The brushes are cheap and disposable. |
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| thanks fingers |
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Posts: 190
| New builder, search ebay for bodies/blanks for muskie/musky lures and you will find a great place to start..................Doug |
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| Cedar is another very popular wood.
Hats off too fatfingers. I'm surprised he's the only guy that was willing to respond. |
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| I'm suprised too I didn't expect any positive answers! |
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| One thing you will find is I base my wood choices off of what I want the bait to do. So keep buoyancy in mind when picking wood, if I am wanting a glide bait or a very slow rise I will go with mahogany, if I want shallow depth, quick rise I use basswood. Just my two cents. |
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Posts: 680
Location: Muskoka Ontario,Canada | I just sent the following info on weighting to a customer of mine who wanted to make some baits of his own. Here's the message...
I'd be glad to give you some tips. First of all make sure that your wood is a minimum of 1" thick. That is the thickness i use. Any thinner and they won't glide. Any thicker and they will glide but need more lead weighting to get them to sink.
Drill out three interconnecting holes with a forstner bit no deeper than the half way point into the belly. Drill these about one inch to two inches in from each end of the bait.
Melt your lead in and test it in a tank for balance. If it floats level, drill another partial hole attached to the others at each end of the bait. If it sinks but not level, drill out a little lead at the end that sinks more. It is imperative to balance the glide baits so they either float with the back just above the water sitting level or that they sink slowly while staying horizontal.
This should help. |
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Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | There is some good info here. enough to get you started. Snaxs discription of weighting ( I feel is the most important on a glide bait) is pretty good, mine is a little different but not that far off. Types of wood makes a difference, I use 5 different types depending what I want it to do. Do a lot of reading on this board (past posts) and you will pick up many ways and things to do and use, I did and learned a lot and I have been doing this for years. Have FUN and try different things and when someting does not work try and figure out why (more important then having the first one work). If you mess up a few times it is ok, when you get it, it will be something you did. And if you want to do this to save a few bucks stop NOW cause it is not going to happen, most of us have already found that out. |
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| Thanxs Snax I ordered a few lures off you can't wait to see em. I'm still trying to gather materials and convince myself to open up this can of worms. I know I will eventually, I just want to take my time so I don't get too frustrated and give up. I also need to take care of ventilation issues before I start gettig serious next time I'm out I will gather some wood and start cutting blanks I looked at premaid ones but I want to start from scratch to better understand the whole process. Any help is apprecated and I'm sure some other future builders are reading these posts.
Thanx again and any other tips wood be great. |
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| Thanxs h20 I plan on experimenting alot and I know this is a hobby and I know hobbys cost money alot of money. I think this one is one I would enjoy for a long time just as fishing itself. When I'm not fishing I always want to be doing something that relates to it. So what kind of wood would you suggest for your first build I was thinking of maple. |
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| Try using Mahogany, its great to work with and I know several builders over here in Scandinavia who have been using it for years without any sealer, only paint and thick epoxycoating. A simple way of placing the correct amount of weight at the right place is to use small rubberbands and round leadsinkers (see attached pic). With this tecnique its very easy to try out diffrent setups and check how the bait moves in the water. When your done with the testing then just drill out holes and place the leadsinkers inside. Secure it all with epoxyglue. Remember that the paint and clearcoat also will add some weight to the bait.
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Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | New builder - Maple is ok. hard maple is heavier than soft maple and soft is easier to work with. I use beach, birch, soft maple, pine and cedar each seals a little diferent. Never tried mahogany, it is a bit pricey around here. I get a little more eratic action with heavier wood on glide baits. Mag has a nice way of trying a bait with different weight. I put my weight up higher in the body to help get more belly roll, but his way would give you a good idea how it works. |
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Posts: 1529
| mahogany truly is the cadillac of wood. very pricey here in canada but it turns well and paits excellent.. in harder woods paint adherence can be problematic.. honduras mahogany is best. it floats with the best buoyancy |
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