|
|
Posts: 303
Location: Valentine, NE USA | Time to do it yet again......
Does anyone here use BUNKAPS® - http://www.bunkaps.com/product.html ?
How do they perform? Lifespan?
Thanks,
Brian
|
|
| |
|
Location: Athens, Ohio | I saw those in Cabelas catalog. They looked OK, but maybe a bit expensive for what they are.
I posted something here a while back about 'plastic lumber' bunks that don't need carpeting. I guess they are pretty slick and someone on the board said they were gonna get a set and let us know. They looked not much more expensive than the system you are considering. Contact John at: "Ultimate Bunk Boards" [email protected], they have a website I just found his e-mail quicker. good luck, m
Edited by mikie 5/12/2006 7:45 AM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 303
Location: Valentine, NE USA | excellent idea....thanks, man!
think i might order a set next week and i'll let you know how they do.
b
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 1769
Location: Algonquin, ILL | Here is the web site that MIKIE was refering too
http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 1936
Location: Eau Claire, WI | Moving this thread to Boats/Motor page. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | I was the one that was going to get the boardes, but was out voted one to one. So I go a 2X10, and had our school shop rip them down to 1X3 1/2, sanded them and am ready to clean, and install. I'm planning to put these on new wood bunks. Hope they work. Doug |
|
| |
|
Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | The 2X10 was recycled plastic. Sorry Doug |
|
| |
|
| Just got my first 'rig' this year and noticed how long the water takes to run out of the carpet. I wonder what type of wood is underneath the carpet? and how long does it usually go til it needs to be replaced? Trailmaster is the brand. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 303
Location: Valentine, NE USA | Well - I went ahead and opted to just get 2 treated 2x4's and some good, heavy outdoor carpeting.
The water retention in the carpet COULD be caused by air space between the carpeting and the boards. Some of the heavier carpets, like mine, were a *^%$ to get tight on the boards. I went through 150 screws to get mine as tight as I could. Still ended up with a a few air pockets here and there but...
Just look at the ends of the boards, if you can see them, if they're starting to split or look rotten...it's time for new bunk boards.
B |
|
| |
|
Posts: 2091
Location: Stevens Point, WI | A good way to help keep air pockets from forming is to lay a thick bead of outdoor rated construction adhesive and the trowel it even on the board, lay the carpet on it roll it and then weight it down with the other bunk board till it's dry, then staple it down. |
|
| |
|
| Are you stating to do all four sides at once? |
|
| |
|
Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | Just got the new carpeted wood bunks, and the recycled plastic boards on, Sunday.Just loaded them once, but needed no power to get on. One question> With the old boards, all of the bunks touched the boat. Now about 16 inches are not touching the front of the boat. The bunks are 10 foot long. Do I need to adjust the front stop, or will it be OK? Thanks Doug. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | We've loaded and unloaded the boat at two different lakes now, and are happy with the plastic boards. It takes very little power to load. Total money spent 10 dollars for SS srews. I don't think I'll put carpet on again. Why not just put treated 2X4s paint them black, and put plastic on? Doug |
|
| |
|
| Just noticed my one bunk is warping pretty good. I'll have to leave the boat somewhere to work on it. That water retention problem has me wondering. The rig had never been used, and the carpet really looks tight to the wood. Is there a reason/need to wrap the entire wood with carpet or just the side that touches the boat? |
|
| |
|
Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | When we put carpet on our boards, I used staples to hold it together, while the glue dried. If you don't use glue, you'll have to hold the carpet on , somehow. Don't think you want anything that might scratch the boat. Ours doesn't look 100 per cent, but it works good. Just take your time Good luck Doug |
|
| |
|
| The carpet was still wet this morning after a Sunday evening trip. That's 36 hours. Allstate48-you mentioned recycled plastic. What exactly are you talking about? Those 'ultimates' do not show any pictures. Anyone try "Trex" boards used for decking? They have a texture too, correct? Thanks. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | We have a recycle place close to us, 19 miles, that use to make boards out of pop bottles, credit cards, tooth brushes, what ever they could get. Now they just make decking boards, and land scaping timbers,6X6s. I think you could get some decking , and sand the texture off, cut them to size, and screw them onto your new boards.When we put new carpet on ours, I measured the 2X4 in half, put carpet glue, on half,stapled the carpet down on the glue, and then clamped it down for a day. I go to work at 6 am, and get off at4:30pm. I'm in the basement at 4 am doing whatever. Every day I gued half a board, until I was done.Maybe not the best way, but I'm happy. I hope this helps. Good luck Doug |
|
| |
|
| These should not warp, right? I like the idea of carpet, not letting the boat slide off. Why screw them into the existing wood? One of mine is warped badly. It would work using the 'Trex' alone or with carpet, right? Wouldn't the texture give the glue something to 'bite' into, rather than a smooth surface? Thankx, no more questions, I promise...........  |
|
| |
|
| Talked with a builder at work today and he enlighten me on this. The plastic blanks will deteriorate with exposure to the sun and need to be supported every 16 inches or so or sagging will occur. Treated lumber will warp worse than the regular unless you inspect every one and find the staightest grain. This is all.  |
|
| |
