|
|
Posts: 24
| I have an alumacraft and last year hit a stump going at a pretty good clip. I dented in the boat where the side and the bottom meet on the underside. The ridge where they overlap, that has the rivets, now lets in a little water. There is a gap there now that is at most 1/8 of an inch and probably 4 inches long. Is there anything I can put in that gap that would permanently seal it and keep out the water? |
|
| |
|
| Don't know where you're from, but how about calling the company? Maybe they can fix it.
Good Luck Doug |
|
| |
|
Posts: 24
| I did have it looked at and for them to fix it "right" they would have to take the whole boat apart, remove the inner hull just to get at the damaged piece. They said the cost, because of the time involved, would be great. If I can fix it myself to where it doesn't leak I'll be happy. If the muskies complain about the dent and patch in my boat then I'll let them know they can be eaten too. I don't think they'll say anything.  |
|
| |
|
Posts: 2754
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | Buck - Try "Waterweld" it's made by the folks who make J-B Weld.
http://jbweld.net/products/water.php
Today, I just repaired a 2 1/2" x 1/4" gash in the gas tank of our 1999 Mazda 626 ( I ran over a carpenters L-bar , the front tire flipped it and the rest was history, i.e., the one they use for demolition.) At least it didn't get the tire. It punched all the way through the gas tank shield and into the tank). Bummer, I'd just filled the car up with gas. Obviously he's out an L-bar, but I was out a full tank of gas and looking at serious price for a new gas tank- only available from Mazda. Luckly I made it home before the tank drained completely.
This stuff can be drilled/sanded/painted and is also suppose to work underwater. The package says it sets to "hard as steel" in 20 minutes- I waited 2 hours & put gas into the tank- no leaks. It comes in a roll, that you have to knead to mix. Just makes sure the area is clean fresh metal around the area to be repaired. Make sure you mix it well, i.e., per the instructions. It starts to set up ~ 2 minutes after mixing.
I think I got it at Home Depot- in the adehsives section. I've used other J-B Weld products and have always been very happy with the results.
Good luck!
Al
Edited by ESOX Maniac 3/26/2006 8:15 PM
|
|
| |
|
Location: Green Bay, WI | Buck,
Where is this damaged section on the boat exactly (how far back from the bow), and can you get the inside of the hull where it's damaged? You didn't say which model of Alumacraft you had.
If a guy could get to the backside of the damaged area (even if you had to cut a circular inspection hole somewhere) then you could make a patch about 6"x2", centered on the damage. And even if you cannot get to the back side you can still install a patch using blind rivets--these are NOT the same as pop rivets...you do not want pop rivets on a boat repair (the inserts are steel and corrode, and the hollow shank allows water in). This is essentially what you do on an aircraft if you can't replace an entire skin. I would try to find an aircraft mechanic-type of person around, if I were you. Lots of guys build their own aluminum planes and fly them--and get VERY good at aluminum work. They could point you in the right direction anyway...
Try looking on the Experimental Aviation Association's (EAA) website for a local chapter near you, then make contact with someone. Or better yet, go out to your local airport (the smaller the better sometimes, as you can get access to the guys at their hangars), and just introduce yourself to some of the pilots and ask questions. Sheet aluminum work is not hard, but it takes practice and experience to get a good result. And there are products made for aircraft floats to seal them between skins so they don't leak.
If you want, PM me with your phone number and I will tell you more.
TB |
|
| |
|
Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | I'm thinking of two things:
If the gap is at the back end of the joint between the transom and the bottom hull, get some good silicone and fill the gap. If it is on the hull's underside in front of the transom, then go to a metal shop and get the gap welded. I have had friends who have punctured their hull, had it welded and all was fine when done.
Steve |
|
| |
|
Posts: 8856
| Buck,
I think this is the #*#* I bought at the boat and RV show this past January. Haven't used it myself yet, but is sounds perfect for what you're trying to do -- the good part is all you need is a propane torch and a wire brush.
http://durafix.com |
|
| |
|
Posts: 360
Location: Tinley Park. Fish Cen IL. Bass & Vilas Cty.Muskie | There is some good replys here. I had a friend(his name is Buck too) who had a rip in a seam on his alumacraft. I asked a boat mechanic friend and he suggested someone who fixed it for $40 in his garage. Go to a few boat mechanics shops and ask for a aluminum repairman or go to a welder's place and ask for someone they would recommend who fixes Aluminum. There's a difference in getting a older boat fixed(my friends) and a new one. Just my 2 cents. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 21
| I worked at a repair shop in cologne mn. We repaired many hull punctures, cracks, gaps transom hits etc. no leaks, no complaints. if you can get to the back side or inside of the hull damage, it can be fixed safely. If you call a good repair shop you are looking for an experienced aluminum tig welder to perform your repair. storms welding in cologne can do it 952-466-3343 ask for John Hoen.
Do not use liquid weld products to try and repair a tear, crack, or seam gap. These products, such as jb weld work very well to fill and seal a drilled hole or other small voids. If you are planning on having it welded, do not use any of these home fix methods first. You will just cause the welder much more grief, and cost yourself more money. all of the jb weld has to be off the damaged area before it can be welded. Otherwise is melts into the weld and causes leaks. Unlike steel, aluminum has to be almost surgically clean to be welded strong and watertight, all dirt, paint, caulk, etc. must be removed from the area to be repaired. The average aluminum boat reapair for minor cracks, 6'' or less is probably an hour or less. if it is clean. Add another hour to the job if you have to clean off jb weld, caulk, or that aluminum on a stick they sell at boat shows. $50-$100 is a guess without seeing your damage. good luck and good fishing.
Lonewolf
Edited by lonewolf 3/27/2006 2:08 PM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 40
Location: NEW LENOX | You might try bring the boat to a high school or local college that offers welding, they might be able to tig weld a patch in. And best of all it might not cost you anything because there always looking for projects. ( make sure YOU disconnect the batteries, or it will cost you more) |
|
| |
