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Posts: 706
Location: Richland Center, WI. | What does a guy use to solder the loops closed on wire when making lures? What I am talking about is wire used in a thru wire bait like a globe. I am trying some thick stainless about .073 in diameter and it can be a bear to twist the loop closed. I have seen the loop closed by what looks like solder but I am not sure if that is an acid core or a silver solder or what. Any idea guys? Thanks in advance for your help. |
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Posts: 21
| I use regular 50:50 and/or 60:40 tin-lead solder, whatever's handy. You need to use the proper flux, they sell 'stainless steel' flux, but jelled rust remover (i.e. navel jelly) that contains phosphoric acid will work. Avoid breathing the fumes!
Here is how I do the swivel loops on my spinnerbaits.
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Posts: 706
Location: Richland Center, WI. | That looks great! Do you know if you can use an acid core solder? I saw some acid core thst said it was for metal soldering and that you did not need to use flux. What do you think? |
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Posts: 21
| I haven't tried acid core solder, I don’t know if it will work. I did try the following on stainless steel and they didn't work: zinc chloride paste flux, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid from a lead battery, rosin, borax, and "Handy Flux" for silver solder. Rust remover is the only flux that I've tried that has worked for soldering stainless steel.
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Posts: 72
Location: Central Part of no-where but not far enough away!! | Guys, I have been soldering my loops for my lures for about 2 years. Go to the hardware store and get the handy dandy stainless steel soldering kit. It contains a small coil of the correct solder and usually a liquid tube of acid made for stainless steel. Heat your wire, I like using a big old soldering iron(rummage sales are coming) and drip a drop of acid onto the soon to be joint. Continue to heat the joint and touch the solder coil near the heated surface but not on the iron because you will get a "false hot". Once the solder 'flows' into the joint remove the solder and then remove the heat. Let the solder completely cool before moving the finished product. You will see when the appearance of the solder changes color and then texture which indicates that it is set. It is still very hot but safe to move. I like to take a moist paper towel or rag and quickly wipe both sides of the solder to remove any left over acid that remains.
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Posts: 169
| I've never tried soldering wire but is it as strong as twisted wire? I might have to give it a try. Thanks. |
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