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| What do most of you use for your lures: Screws or Through wire construction? For a long time now I wanted to build some larger crankbaits (12"-14") for trolling and I am just nervous about using eye screws. I would like to build some "Slammer" style baits. Any help in how to build a quality crankbait is greatly appreciated.
BTW this forum will be a favorite of mine. It was a great addition!
Mike |
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| If you are using a relatively "hard" wood screw eyes are more than adequate. I have tested mine at over 100 pounds each....how much more do you need? If you are using a soft wood like western red cedar I would be careful...
jed v. |
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Location: Athens, Ohio | Do you drill a pilot hole, then add epoxy, when using screws? m |
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Posts: 2384
Location: On the X that marks the mucky spot | You'll probably have component failure before you have a screw pull out. So long as you're using .092" dia you should be fine. I use 1-1/2"ers and have never had a problem. You can get them 2-3" if you feel nervious about it. Remember, 99% of the time you're not pulling against the threads (ie straight away). You're usually pulling in such a matter that you're working against the wood of the bait. Just make sure that if it's a high stress area you use a superglue or epoxy to help waterproof the hole.
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Posts: 2112
Location: The Sportsman, home, or out on the water | I use screw eyes, epoxyed in. How through wire baits are made is they cut a slot in the belly, lay in their wire harness, and then fill in the slot with putty, Bondo, etc. Alot of extra work, and I've had through wire baits have the harness ripped out of baits by even medium sized fish. |
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| Well I appreciate the info. I have a 10" Believer that boated 3 fish last fall and after that weekend was over I noticed that the middle hook snap ring started being pulled apart. I'm sure you all know that the snap rings used on these lures are good quality so it gave me a whole new perspective on how much abuse these lures endure. What type of wood would you recommend then for this type of lure?
This is really great info and hopefully I will have a good selection of baits for next fall. It's an awesome feeling boating a muskie but doing it on a lure that you made; it has to make it all that much better!
Thanks,
Mike |
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| I've only made a couple of glide baits and I learned quick to drill pilot holes. Just for the simple fact you can't put the screws in very straight without doing so. I did use glues to seal the holes. What type of epoxy/glues seem to work best for you?
Thanks, Mike |
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Posts: 2112
Location: The Sportsman, home, or out on the water | I use Poplar, because it's strong, and almost as easy to work as pine. I would get several different types, and experiment. I use either Devcon or loctite brand epoxy, but make sure you use the 60 minute, or 2 ton stuff- much stronger. It is awesome to catch a musky on your own bait, but even better when other folks do as well.
Edited by muskynightmare 1/10/2006 4:22 PM
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Location: Duluth, MN - Superior, WI | You are correct Mike. I remember my first fish on one of my baits. I will tell you this, after catching many fish on my baits the filing is still there and stronger than if I would have caught it on another bait.
For a crank I would use cedar for the wood. Definite use the .092” 1 ½” or more screw eye and 2 ton epoxy it in the bait.
Some drill a hole through the bait for a wire that size. It all depends how much you want to invest in tools.
This addiction is just as bad as muskie fishing, I have more money in tools for making lures then I have in lures.
Good luck
-Corey
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Location: Des Moines IA | If you are using Cedar be careful, the cedar saw dust is very bad for you. Use ventilation. |
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Posts: 619
Location: Verona, WI | I use only 1.5" or 2" screw eyes on my basswood baits and have two ton epoxy. Though it is less appealing to the eye, I paint over my screw eyes and then epoxy over them with the top coat as i think it makes the screw eye even that much stronger.
Nice suggestion on the forum Rob!
Shane |
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Posts: 2384
Location: On the X that marks the mucky spot | MuskieMike - 1/10/2006 2:57 PM
If you are using Cedar be careful, the cedar saw dust is very bad for you. Use ventilation.
I guess I'm screwed then...Doh!  |
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Location: Duluth, MN - Superior, WI | It is not just the cedar dust that is bad. All forms of wood dust have deferent affects on the body. I know some one that passed away from a sinus cancer. He was a long time word worker using Oak. Looking it up that is one of the links.
-Corey
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Posts: 1060
Location: Palm Coast, FL | Also remember that some of the component (snap rings) that you notice happens when the fish is in the net. Occurs when the fish is flopping around while the lure is in the fish's mouth and also on the net. Always check your components after releasing a fish. |
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Location: Des Moines IA | I am not sure where I heard about that cedar, I think it was my step dad, I also didn't know all wood dust was that bad. Guess it's time for a decent mask!!!! |
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Location: Duluth, MN - Superior, WI | Yea, I will try and find the info on all the different woods and post it later today.
-Corey
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Location: Duluth, MN - Superior, WI | Please read!!! And start wearing a good dust mask.
http://www3.gov.ab.ca/hre/whs/publications/pdf/ch045.pdf
-Corey
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| i use clothes hanger for wire on all solf wood it works cheap to hi all |
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Posts: 393
Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | Depending on the style of bait you're making there are other options aside from screw eys and wire. You can also use plate or cotter pins dogeared backwards. I'm not usre about clothes hanger wire. I only use stainless steel pins, screws and wire. |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | Good to see you Lunge.
jed |
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| Thanks Jed! Just found it yesterday. |
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Posts: 110
Location: WI | I think that the musky world gets caught up in the whole thru-wire craze. Now I am not saying that it is not worth it, like it was said above, there are certain time when it is needed. If the guys that have screw lures are worried about the screws pulling out, I wonder if they are worried about there line or leader breaking, rod failure, or straightening out a hook? I fish the WI river and there are snags, stumps, BIG snapping turtles and other hidden gems. With that being said I use my cedar floater style glider and on occasion I get snagged. I pull up stumps, logs, and whatever else. I never had a screw pull out of a cedar lure or maple. I have busted leaders but never pulled out a screw. I use 4X VMC trebles on my lures and had them bend pulling out stuff, so in my opinion there are other things that will fail before a screw is going to pull out.
But, for cranks that have line attachments on the lexan lips, thru wire is the only way to go. It is a pain in the arse but I don't see any other way to do it.
Chad |
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Posts: 2384
Location: On the X that marks the mucky spot | You're going to straighten a hook before you pull out a 1-1/2" .092 hook hanger that's in cedar or maple.
But then again... |
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