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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | I have a 2 battery onboard charger. Both are going to the trolling batteries. Can I get some cable, and run one side back to the motor battery. If so, how heavy of wire, or cable, will I need.Maybe 10 feet away from the charger. Thanks Doug |
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Posts: 2753
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | Doug- I'd advise agaist it- your trolling battery and cranking battery are usually different type- one is designed for long/deep low rate discharge (trolling) and cranking is designed for fast high rate discharge. Plus the cable would have to be rated for the full current not just the charging current and the engine noise can interfere with electronics like depth finders or trolling motors w/electronic controls.. There are ways to do this with a switch, right hardware, etc. I believe you may be able to find a kit I'd probably consult with a pro boat rigger before going off the deep end.
As Martha says- "it's a good thing" to charge your batteries separately.
If you're worried about the cranking battery during storage- get another charger for it. On average in storage, lead-acid batteries need a refresh charge every 60-90 days. It's also not a good thing to leave them on constant float charge- without some very special charging controls- even then this increases grid corrosion and causes loss of capacity and life. Your batteries will last longer if you charge them periodically (every 60-90 days) while in storage.
Al |
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Posts: 1335
Location: Chicago, Beverly | Always go big with wire, heavier the gauge the better. Lighter gauge wire has more resistance then heavier gauge wire, electricity follows path of least resistance.. As far as how to hook it up? no idea..lol.. |
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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | Thanks guys. Since one of you said no, that's good for me. Thanks Doug |
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Posts: 1438
| Hey Doug, I've got the same setup on my boat. Earlier this year I was pondering pretty much the same idea you had. After talking with a couple guys, someone suggested looking into a 2 amp automatic trickle charger. I got the Cabela's (maybe called Scientific Anglers) one for like 25 bucks.
It's a little bigger than a pack of cigarettes and about twice as thick, mounts to the side of a compartment and has a 6 foot cord on it so you can run that to wherever it's convenient for you to reach with an extension.
You shouldn't be drawing too many amps off that starting battery. Depends on what you're running off of it. Just starting the motor and running one locator, or even two, shouldn't be a big deal. If your battery is running out of juice with just that stuff on, I'd almost guess that the battery is starting to go. I know that's the problem with mine. I'll need a new battery in spring.
Just another idea if you hadn't already considered it.
Scott
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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | Thanks, No I didn't think of another charger. I'm not haveing any trouble with the starter batt, but I would just like to put a charge in it every so often. Thanks all Doug |
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Posts: 21
| Doug,
This past spring I did just what you are considering, spliced a 10' extension wire on an onboard charger to my cranking battery. The advise I was given by a service tech from pro-mariner was to use 10-12ga. wire. Solder and shrink tube the connections, don't crimp them or use wire nuts.
Also make sure that the inline fuse is within a foot or two of the battery.
I did as was instructed and have not had any problems with the charger.
Ubuck |
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Posts: 1335
Location: Chicago, Beverly | 10-12 guage? awefull light, I'm a electrician by trade, heavier equals less resistance equals better current flow. battery charger stuff defintely go heavy on your wire, not light. For battery cables and charging cables I reccomend 4-6, with 4 being maybe a bit heavier then needed. |
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Posts: 2753
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | Guy's - This is a pretty complex issue, with many facets. Ubuck1 may be able to get away with it now, but that doesn't mean he will never have a problem. This type of connection effectively parallel's both batteries.
f. ex. If there is no switch to disconnect them when not on charge or you forget to open the switch. If you have a big motor and it's hard to start one very cold Novenber morning you may find yourself with some smoking wiring or a fire. Best case would be a blown fuse if it's sized to properly protect the wiring.
Even if the connection is only for recharge and there is a switch there can be other issues. The problem then is if one battery (trolling motor is deeply discharged) and the other (cranking battery) is fully charged when the switch is closed the batteries will equalize, i.e., the fully charged battery will instantaneously share current (equalize) with the discharged battery. This current can be very high and is in essence controlled by the connecting impedance and the impedances of the two batteries. Once again you could see smoking wires/fire or best case blown fuse.
I'm an electrical engineer by training and I would not do this, enough said!
Have fun!
Merry Christmas
Al
Edited by ESOX Maniac 12/21/2005 9:08 AM
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