|
|
Posts: 37
| Looking for suggestions for repairing the clearcoat on a Shaker. It picked a fight with a rock and Canada and the rock won. It has about a 1/2"x1" wound where the finish is chipped off down to bare wood. Finish is also cracked in the vicinity, but I think that part will be okay. Should I leave it as is or attempt to fix it. The only reason I would want to fix it is to prevent more clearcoat from flaking off and to seal it back up. Any thoughts? |
|
| |
|
Posts: 699
Location: Hugo, MN | spray-on appliace epoxy |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1188
Location: Iowa | Talk to Beaver 90210...I had the same thing with a shaker of mine...left it alone for a while and the wood started to warp...sent it to Beav and he did an incredible job and it works better than it did before in my opinion...plus he can paint it pretty much any color you want for cheap...I think I paid less than $25 for shipping to a from and the face lift...I would highly recommend contacting him...here are some before and after pics for ya to see...
Big Perc
Edited by Big Perc 8/12/2005 11:26 AM
(Mr. Automatic Fixed.jpg)
Attachments
----------------
 Mr. Automatic.JPG (84KB - 96 downloads)
Mr. Automatic1.JPG (81KB - 92 downloads)
Mr. Automatic Fixed.jpg (134KB - 94 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 4266
| Thanks for the kind words Perc.
You don't have to send it to me, but I would cover any bare wood and wouldn't use it until it was sealed again, otherwise it will take on water, swell, crack...etc. Depending how bad it is and how big of a piece, mix up some 2-part epoxy.....the 5 minute drying kind.....and a couple of 99 cent paint brushes and do your best to give the area a couple of caots to get a good seal.
Beav |
|
| |
|
| MRG muskies - very affordable, very dependable
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 2112
Location: The Sportsman, home, or out on the water | Beav has got some great advice. My advice would be:
Any bait that you have run with bare spots should be hung in the window of your house for 2 weeks.
Any clear coat that has worked its way loose, chip off.
Mix up some extra time epoxy, coat problematic areas, and hang in the back yard for 24 hours.
If you do not want to go through all that trouble, consult beav, myself, or one of the other baitmakers on this site. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | The five minute epoxy will work but you will probably have better results with the longer drying version of epoxy. You want to use the "two ton" and you can get it at Wal-Mart in the paint section for 2 dollars. As has been said, make sure the lure is entirely dry before doing the repair. I would also touch up the bare wood on the bait with a black permanent maker since this part of the bait was black originally.
Mix the epoxy on something clean and flat, like the bottom end of a beer can and make sure you mix in all of both part A and part B. Paint it on with a small soft-bristle brush. It will now be necessary to hand turn the lure first one way and then the other for about 15 minutes or until the epoxy gets thick enough to stop dripping/running...just tilt the bait left then right while watching tv, it goes by fast. Once it starts to set up lay it flat on it's side with the repair on the top side and do not touch it for at least 4 hours. It will take about 8 hours before the epoxy is entirely set up. Any small repair necessary after that can be done with the 5 minute version.
If you have any problems feel free to write, would be happy to help you.
Jed V.
Bikini Bait Co.
Edited by RiverMan 8/12/2005 11:44 PM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 432
Location: mpls | For emergency repairs in the boat (assuming you want to keep fishing the bait), use "Seal All". Great stuff. Dries FAST and can be put on a wet lure. When ready to make a more lasting repair, warm up the Seal All and peel it away. Let the lure dry, then coat with whatever topcoat you choose. |
|
| |
