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| Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page] Muskie Fishing -> General Discussion -> Vipers Without the Weight Insert |
| Message Subject: Vipers Without the Weight Insert | |||
| Gander Mt Guide |
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Posts: 2515 Location: Waukesha & Land O Lakes, WI | Anybody know if Vipers can/will be made without that weight insert hole? If so, where can I get them? | ||
| Muskie Treats |
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Posts: 2384 Location: On the X that marks the mucky spot | Todd is eventually going to start making them that way. Too many cracking problems with the weight insert. | ||
| Gander Mt Guide |
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Posts: 2515 Location: Waukesha & Land O Lakes, WI | I tried sealing up the hole with silicon with sme success, but I too noticed the same problem, alot of cracking. | ||
| MNSteveH |
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| The new Vipers on sale at the Minnesota Muskie Expo did not have the holes, | |||
| Gander Mt Guide |
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Posts: 2515 Location: Waukesha & Land O Lakes, WI | Do you have any problems keeping the bait on the surface with that 1/8th oz weight Steve? | ||
| David_4 |
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Posts: 373 Location: Huber Heights, Ohio | Since there is a problem with cracking, what is the fix without buying new baits? | ||
| Gander Mt Guide |
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Posts: 2515 Location: Waukesha & Land O Lakes, WI | I tried nail polish. | ||
| Esox1850 |
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| Buy some of the two part Epoxy that dries clear. I use in on my other stuff like jerkbaits I weight. I put some of the clear finish epoxy over the weight once it is in the bait and it works really well. | |||
| David_4 |
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Posts: 373 Location: Huber Heights, Ohio | Anyone know how to weight them with the weight insert removed? I'm looking for specifics such as hole diameter and amount of lead to use. I want it to ride in the water somewhat like a Weagle. | ||
| chico |
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Posts: 502 Location: Lincoln UK | I had the cracking problem last year and although it didn't effect all my Vipers it was the majority(6/8) I tried contacting the maker but got nothing back but the conclusion I came to was that it wasn't just the insert that was the problem. All my cracks were from the insert to the rear screw eye and the cracks always started from both ends indicating a major stress raiser. No matter what I tried once the crack had started there was simply no stopping it. Around the weight insert may well start to crack but it shouldn't head straight to the rear screweye but it seems that the rear screw eyes were all incredibly tight and I think it was this that caused the crack to spread so far. Now nobody wants their screw eyes loose but maybe a slightly larger pilot hole might have solved the problem. With regard to how much weight and where to put it on unweighted models, the weight of lead weight you used to use plus the insert in that spot is a good start point. As you want to keep the weight low down two similar sized holes close together is better than 1 deep one. It is always easier to take some out than add it though, so overweight first. | ||
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