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Posts: 516
Location: Kildeer, IL | My prop has a lot on nicks and dings in it. I want to replace it with a new prop. I don't want to spend the money on stainless, because I don't think it is worth it on a 1987 40 hp engine.
How do I find out what size, pitch, cupped/uncupped, etc. my prop is?
I will probably replace it with the same type of prop, unless someone can persuade me to buy a different type of prop.
My current prop is the stock, black prop.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Scott |
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Posts: 5874
| You'll spend less if you get it repaired. And, it will be just like new. There has to be a good prop shop near you. Bet Slamr or Todd have some suggestions. |
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Posts: 516
Location: Kildeer, IL | The place I called wanted $50 - $60 to repair and weld the dings on the prop. It looks like a replacement is $75. I have heard that the welding falls off of the prop after a while, so that is why I was going to spend the extra money for a new prop. Is this true? |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Couple of questions: First, what brand of motor do you have? Second, have you checked the hub where your retaining nut would attatch? Many times there is a part number there...sometimes the diameter and pitch as well. If you can at least supply the brand of motor, we can assist better...
Steve |
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Posts: 516
Location: Kildeer, IL | It's a 1987 40 hp Evinrude. |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Depending on your boat, I'd bet you either have a 12-1/4 x 15...possibly an 11-3/4x17. For a good prop that is better than OE, try a solas Alcup 3. I have 2 of them...main and spare for the boat I have for sale on the classifieds here. The alcup will grab water better, and it has a larger exhaust opening through the prop, so your motor actually will gain a couple HP as well. They flex less and are cupped, so they hold the water really well if you move your motor up a hole or two on the transom. And...they are quite a bit less expensive than replacing with an OE prop. you can find them through http://www.propline.com they will also have more information about the alcup, or you can go to http://www.solas.com and look up their aluminum series of propellers.
If your original is a stock prop, look on the outside of the hub between the fins. My original (I believe) is stamped there. Otherwise, if you look at the back end of the hub where the exhaust finally is released into the water, there should be a part number there. If so, then go to the michigal wheel website, and do a cross check. They have a data base that allows you to put in your OE part number for the prop, and it will cross reference it with their prop. http://www.miwheel.com
Steve |
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Posts: 670
Location: Minnetonka , MN. | If I were you I would get it fixed and get a spair. But then I hit a lot of things  |
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Posts: 1335
Location: Chicago, Beverly | airmarine on 55th and central behind midway airport is one of the best places to get repairs. another is phil's prop shop. 11 3/4x17 has top end, but at least on my boat takes a little longer to get up to max speed then my 12 1/4x15. both of my props have been cupped by airmarine. |
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Posts: 561
Location: Monee, Illinois | Time for a new motor 1987, the $75 you are spending on the new prop is like taking $75 off a new motor, even if it is a new used motor. Check Basa Marine they have some great new/used motors in stock. Just a thought, I think they even take trade-in's. If not I would just get the prop fixed and save some money for a new motor down the road. I know that motor is probally GREAT and runs like a champ them Evey's always did. But look into a 4 stroke will save on Fuel $$ down the road and make the new purchase well worth it.
pga |
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Posts: 152
| Not all aluminium can be welded, but the ones that can must be heat treated. A shop that repairs props will be able to do the job and you will not have to worry about weld failure. The West Marine catalog has a good section explaining how to choose the right prop for a boat. They have a composite prop that lets you adjust the pitch and replace damaged blades. It is a Pro Pulse. I have not known anyone that has one, so I don't know how good they are. I do run a composite prop on lakes with rock hazards and see nothing wrong with then as far as performance. A stainless cupped prop flexes less and gives more push, but thet cost a lot. It's good to have choices. Is this a great country or what! Later |
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Posts: 516
Location: Kildeer, IL | Thanks for all of the replies. I will look into West Marine and Airmarine.
PGA - I don't think a new motor is in the cards. Don't you think that is a little extreme? If your tire pops on your car, do you get a new car? My motor has never given me problems. All I have to do to it is change the lower unit grease every fall. If the motor was giving me problems, I would definitely consider that route. |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Aw Heck....replace the whole boat!! The prop goes bad, then nothing works and if the boat has any sort of scratch in the hull...it has to go too!! Heck...better replace that truck too...especially if it blew a tire. Man..don't want that to happen as well. Oh....the house? Well...if the doorbell doesn't work, better buy a new house, and that lightbulb is out..oh the house...it's gotta go!!
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Posts: 561
Location: Monee, Illinois | Just saying the the money you would save in fuel with a 4 stroke vs a 2 stroke it will be worth it. Sorry for giving any kind of advice. I will stick to golf or something. |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | I'm just razzin ya....Please take no offense to it..
The opinions are always wanted and you shared yours...no harm in that..
Steve |
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