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Posts: 770
| hi all, I'm not real great with electronics, but i'm looking to have my Helix 9 mega SI (networked with I pilot link) wired so that I can move it back and forth the bow to console. can anyone help me out?
thank you in advance! |
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Posts: 483
| Hey Clay , do you leave the transducer on transom for console viewing and use troll motor when on bow ? to use link at both spots would require to bring along the cable from toll motor to follow the graph , you could install another quick connect plug at bow but always have to unplug and reconnect , might be better/easier to get another unit .
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Posts: 32934
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Cheapest way is to buy an extension cord for the transducer and an extra power cord for the second location, using a ram mount so you don't have to buy an extra bracket. I think this may work...
https://humminbird.johnsonoutdoors.com/accessories/cables/ec-m10-10-...
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Posts: 770
| Right now the unit is at the console and fully rigged. Running a 2nd power cable to front and a transducer extension may be the easiest way, the link is no problem as there is already an extension from the Trolling motor to council all I have to do is disconnect the extension and connect right to the trolling motor |
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Posts: 2381
Location: Chisholm, MN | T3clay - 8/22/2021 8:13 PM
Right now the unit is at the console and fully rigged. Running a 2nd power cable to front and a transducer extension may be the easiest way, the link is no problem as there is already an extension from the Trolling motor to council all I have to do is disconnect the extension and connect right to the trolling motor
This is a lot of hassle. You should just drive the trolling motor from the back of the boat and watch the graph at the console. Moving the graph every time you move spots would be dangerous as you could drop the unit. This doesn’t work obviously if you have a cable drive trolling motor. But there are a lot of advantages to driving the trolling motor from the back if you can. Just takes a little getting used to. Once you can afford a second unit, put it on the bow and go that route if you really want to drive from the front. |
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Posts: 679
Location: Duluth | Kirby Budrow - 8/23/2021 8:32 AM
T3clay - 8/22/2021 8:13 PM
Right now the unit is at the console and fully rigged. Running a 2nd power cable to front and a transducer extension may be the easiest way, the link is no problem as there is already an extension from the Trolling motor to council all I have to do is disconnect the extension and connect right to the trolling motor
This is a lot of hassle. You should just drive the trolling motor from the back of the boat and watch the graph at the console. Moving the graph every time you move spots would be dangerous as you could drop the unit. This doesn’t work obviously if you have a cable drive trolling motor. But there are a lot of advantages to driving the trolling motor from the back if you can. Just takes a little getting used to. Once you can afford a second unit, put it on the bow and go that route if you really want to drive from the front.
Yep, I only fish out of the stern when possible. makes for better figure 8s |
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Posts: 770
| I wouldnt move it to the console when switching spots, only rarely would I love it back for trolling or walleye fishing.
I don’t have a rear casting deck insert for my 619 so not a lot of room for footwork or I would t mind fishing out of the back! |
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Posts: 443
Location: Indiana | I use lowrance not humminbird, but did just what you are wanting. Unit is mounted with ram. I mounted an extra ball at the console, so I just move the arm with the unit. I have an extra power cord, ethernet cable, and NMEA cable at the console. I cannot read the trolling motor transducer, but don't need it when motor trolling. I just share the stern transducer data. Works great. Only problem is that I found I almost never move it back to the bow. It caused me to start casting from back so I have 2 units even when casting, lol |
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