|
|
| hey guys i have recently seen many cranks lips that have been made whit the eye fixed at the lips but the wire at the other end is barely fixed into the wood, not even connected to the rest of the wire because it is just eyes screw. so the most vulnerable spot during the fight become the lips. can we trust 1/8 polycarbonate lips to bring big fish in the net ? i have seen broken big game lips due to bottom bouncing,but other than that i have never seen broken lexan. would you or did you trust a eye that is just fixed at deep diving lexan bill ? |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1100
| I wouldn't worry about it, I even use some baits where the line tie is only connected to the lexan lip, and not down to the body. but i'm not trolling rocks with those.
I don't think the impact from a fish thrashing can compare to hitting a rock when trolling 5 mph. |
|
| |
|
Location: 31 | Typically the force that might separate you from a fish or snag is not great enough at the line connection, if you have any doubts put it in a vice and do a pull test. My biggest concern in that regard is a hooked fish twisting on those molded hook hangers that come on most of our cheaper plastic lures. I would be more concerned about that than the Lexan lip…
As an aside; a next level modification I do is adding a split ring on those belly hook(s), 2 split rings attaching one hook to the body. It's an easy change that decreases the amount of torque a fish can put on a hook hanger… and although I could never prove it, I believe my boat has stayed hooked up better with that more free swinging hook mod. I think I've noticed a decrease in the amount of baits getting destroyed in the net too, a netted fish can really expose those type of weak components.100% adding a split ring moves the wear pattern on the body so you get more miles out of your trolled baits with the 2 split ring deal too. |
|
| |
|
| good point jerry. net is a big games destroyer but hell of a fish catcher.i hope they will do something that can be trolled as deep as a jake.im not sure but i think their trolling graph are wrong .can't believe the 7 incher can't do 10 feet at 5 mph. i have seen so many lures that were not directly connected to the lips,in fact i think i have never seen a single one that is purely connected just to the lip. i guess it is just to look more safe,more solid. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 4053
Location: Land of the Musky | JMO but ALL lures, bass, walleye and especially mucky IMO should be thru wire. I have done testing on wood lures a lot for screw eyes vs thru wire and for those screw eyes work just as well as thru wire as long as the screw eyes were 1" or longer and epoxy was used to glue the screw eye in. But IMO any plastic bait should be thru wire and I personally use lexan for lips and/or ABS high impact for all manufacturing of lures. Stronger is always better  |
|
| |
|
Posts: 82
| Jerry makes a very good point about molded hangers, one reason I don’t like triple wrap split rings - nowhere much for a hook to rotate. Strangely they put triple rings on 8” Jakes and to make things worse they have very small diameter hangers. |
|
| |
|
Location: 31 | James, I think threw wire is a no-brainer and absolutely agree that using screw eyes in wood is a good second choice provided there is plenty of wood, and they are the longer HD SS style. However, in our strange little world there are still so many productive plastic lures with cheap molded hook hangers that the potential for a catastrophic failure should try to be addressed as best as possible.That is my best solution...
Good point on the triple rings Steve, that's the first thing I change out too. It's kind of interesting to think back how our sport has evolved; remember some of those wooden lures from the 70-80s that attached their hooks directly to a chintzy screw eye hook hanger… what a recipe for disaster! Also, almost all the other old-timers that used split rings used cheap ones too... when you think about it we were so lame. Every once in a while I'll run across one of my lures from the 80s like this converted threw wire creeper that still has the size #5 inside a #7 split ring configuration (yeah it had chintzy screw eyes) . For those newer to the sport, we did the 2 ring modification after noticing split rings would sometimes egg shape after a good fish, the ring inside the ring prevented that from happening. That's a swivel in the belly, the extra long tail wire was to get a nipper... the hot glue in the rings was just another failed attempt to keep the hook from tangling on the wing.
Actually, I've pretty much went with my 2 HD split ring deal for all my single belly hook lures these days to help reduce torque and put a different wear pattern on the lure. You can change the wear pattern with different size rings... BTW the picture is of a newer threw wire bait with smaller rings to start with. Even though there's no way to actually prove it helps us to stay hooked-up, it just seems logical to me that a larger free swinging treble almost has to be a slightly better mousetrap.
Attachments
----------------
 hooks (1).jpg (32KB - 459 downloads)
hooks (2).jpg (33KB - 440 downloads)
hooks (3).jpg (71KB - 462 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 1529
| I build every day. lexan holds up. if your rock crashing use 3/16 lexan. if not 1/8 is fine. if lexan lips are installed correctly there fine. on our wire thru baits we epoxy in and use stainless screw under the chin..never a failure.,unless some one steps on the bait. actually I had 1 returned with car tire marks on it.,yes I replced it out of courtesy. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 246
| Jerry Newman - 6/9/2019 9:46 AM
Typically the force that might separate you from a fish or snag is not great enough at the line connection, if you have any doubts put it in a vice and do a pull test. My biggest concern in that regard is a hooked fish twisting on those molded hook hangers that come on most of our cheaper plastic lures. I would be more concerned about that than the Lexan lip…
As an aside; a next level modification I do is adding a split ring on those belly hook(s), 2 split rings attaching one hook to the body. It's an easy change that decreases the amount of torque a fish can put on a hook hanger… and although I could never prove it, I believe my boat has stayed hooked up better with that more free swinging hook mod. I think I've noticed a decrease in the amount of baits getting destroyed in the net too, a netted fish can really expose those type of weak components.100% adding a split ring moves the wear pattern on the body so you get more miles out of your trolled baits with the 2 split ring deal too.
My only lure failure was with a larger named bait company where the small clips are molded in the plastic bait. Fish came up and hammered it, turned and then it was gone and I looked at the lure it was missing a hook and hanger. I won't name them but they did step up and replace the bait with no hassle. I have not had another failure with their baits. Lures are bound to have defects and I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again. |
|
| |
|
| personally im fishing whit many plastic lures like believer,jake,grandma,ernie since more than 15 years and they have never failed on me,and non of these are true wire i think it is the first time i see someone that is getting trouble out of non true wire plastic baits.in fact i think even the joe bucher cranks are not truewire and no one is complaining.imo true wire is important for soft wood like balsa or cedar but plastic is more than hard enough to contain hook hangers. i don,t even know a single plastic cranks that is truewire bass,walleye included. so i guess we can trust them |
|
| |
|
| like i said truewire for plastic is just useless.there is just 2 truewire in the lot and guess what it is balsa
Attachments
----------------
x-ray image pfd.jpg (72KB - 458 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Location: 31 | zombietrolling - 6/10/2019 8:28 PM Jerry Newman - 6/9/2019 9:46 AM Typically the force that might separate you from a fish or snag is not great enough at the line connection, if you have any doubts put it in a vice and do a pull test. My biggest concern in that regard is a hooked fish twisting on those molded hook hangers that come on most of our cheaper plastic lures. I would be more concerned about that than the Lexan lip…
As an aside; a next level modification I do is adding a split ring on those belly hook(s), 2 split rings attaching one hook to the body. It's an easy change that decreases the amount of torque a fish can put on a hook hanger… and although I could never prove it, I believe my boat has stayed hooked up better with that more free swinging hook mod. I think I've noticed a decrease in the amount of baits getting destroyed in the net too, a netted fish can really expose those type of weak components.100% adding a split ring moves the wear pattern on the body so you get more miles out of your trolled baits with the 2 split ring deal too. My only lure failure was with a larger named bait company where the small clips are molded in the plastic bait. Fish came up and hammered it, turned and then it was gone and I looked at the lure it was missing a hook and hanger. I won't name them but they did step up and replace the bait with no hassle. I have not had another failure with their baits. Lures are bound to have defects and I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again. IMHO, the lure was defective if the hook hanger was missing or pulled out. If the plastic was broken, it was probably due to the fish biting down and creating a fair amount of sideways pressure. That has never happened outside the net in my boat…
I forgot to mention that it's vitally important with the two split ring deal that the rings be high-quality, tight, with no gap. Otherwise they can begin to work their way off of each other similarly to what can happen with split ring leaders.
Part of my due diligence when changing out baits *check* : hooks, snap closed, split rings, line, and leader. Good habits prevent bad accidents. That x-ray lure image is pretty cool...
|
|
| |
