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| Message Subject: ?? for steve wickens | |||
| divani |
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Posts: 2061 Location: Belgium | While browsing the internet for musky articles, I came across one that you wrote about your own handmade bucktail spinnerbaits. Is it possible to get a little more information about them (size, construction, how you use them, ...) and some pictures? Thanks in advance | ||
| strike_zone |
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Posts: 132 Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | The spinnerbait you refer to is a home-made monster I call "The Seismic", as it features #7 indiana and #9 indiana blades. I am currently experimenting with a prototype version that uses a #10 cowichan blade (a cross between a willowleaf and a colorado) in place of the #9 indiana, which I am hoping to test later in the year. They use a 3 1/2 ounce weighted body, twin 9/0 stainless saltwater hooks, and .098" stainless wire construction. Overall, they are about 33% bigger/heavier than a Fudally Hawg Spin. I believe their overall weight is about 5 1/2 to 6 ounces. They are designed exclusively for trolling the upper water column... lots of flash and lift. The torque those blades produce is how it got its name. It will pull drag out at about 6 pounds with a 4 to 4.5 mph trolling speed, and around 8 pounds at 6 mph. I try to put a very full double tail on each one using a mix of neck hackles and bucktail. Interestingly, I put the finishing touches on the first one 2 years ago. The next morning, I threw out this gaudy looking monster with red blades a bright pink tail behind the boat, and nailed a 43 1/2 muskie within less than a couple of minutes. Party time!!!! That pink model has become my favourite. On the closing days of the 2001 season, it took back to back 46 1/2"ers not 50 feet apart. Those big hooks generally go right through the roof of the mouth on the larger fish, and I rarely get strikers under 40". Once the barb goes through the roof of the mouth, I've had very few fish shake loose, no matter how many times they jump. Yet, the single hooks make the extraction process pretty simple. I have made them in some very bizarre colours, but all have flourescent blades - primarily red or orange. Because of the wire size, the weights and clevises have to be hand over-drilled. The wire itself is tricky to bend too because of it's thickness. (But it won't break!) They take a tremendous amount of time to assemble per unit, and I am steadfastly refusing to enter the tackle manufacturing business so they are for use on my boat only I'm afraid. (I have a hard time finding enough time just to build myself 5 or 6 each year, or to re-tie a few tails, so building them commercially in even small numbers just isn't going to happen.) I'm sure I have a photo of an all orange model somewhere at home that is resting on my hand, so that you can gauge its size. If you e-mail me at [email protected], I will see if I can't find that photo, scan it, and send it to you. It is a very special feeling to catch a muskie (especially a big one) on a bait you have designed and constructed yourself!!!!!! Steve Wickens | ||
| divani |
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Posts: 2061 Location: Belgium | thank you very much for your explanation. I would love to see a close-up picture of the Seismic bucktail if you have a picture. I have made my own copies of it after a tiny picture in that article but I'm not sure they will work properly until I've tried them. I used an egg-sinker of 1oz (28g) and a single size 8 indiana or colorado blade (shape looks like a crosbreed between these two). I will just use them for casting. Probably I'll buy some heavy sinkers as well to try and make a trolling version. I like the idea of the spinnerbait! I also used hair and hackles and 2 size 7/0 mustad spinnerbait trailer hooks. I'll try to send you some pics when I have my film developped. They are 36cm long. Is that second hook somehow attached to the first hook or also to the spltring? Thanks a lot for your help. | ||
| strike_zone |
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Posts: 132 Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | I use a large #10 stainless steel split ring, and connect the trailer hook to the front hook (over the barb), and then use a plastic retainer tube to hold it on. This seems to work very well. Hint: If you use a drop sinker (the kind with the brass loop insert and snip it out), they have a more aerodynamic torpedo shape than the egg sinkers, and they're available in much heavier weights. (Up to 3 1/2 oz. I believe, and possibly even heavier for saltwater applications.) Good luck! Steve Wickens | ||
| divani |
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Posts: 2061 Location: Belgium | good news! I tried my spinnerbaits today and they worked well for casting. They probably won't be heavy enough for trolling but I don't mind. I will need at least a 2oz weight for trolling. The hackles really make them pulsate through the water! Thanks for the tip. I forgot you used 9/0 hooks. There seemed to be so much space between the two hooks that I thought you connected them through a frame. I also connect hooks like that (tied single trailer hooks) on spinnerbaits that I tie on a spinnerbait blank (Moore's Lures). I like the fact that it moves more freely that way. Where do you get SS wire in such a large diameter? I think I'll try to get 0.078 gauge wire somewhere because I won't be making such heavy lures as you are. But I couldn't find it in local tackle stores. They only go up to 0.059 gauge. I can surely understand you can only make 5 or 6 of them. That's a good idea about the sinkers with the swivel inserted in them! I've got some of those in 60g, 90g en 110g. I use these for trolling surface lures with three-way swivels near the bottom. Do you mainly fish clear water or stained water? I have been successful with hot pink in clear water and that color combo sounds great!! | ||
| sledge51 |
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Posts: 356 Location: In the slop! | Divani, you can get .062 wire precut and straightened, 15" long from Stamina inc. www.staminainc.com or you could go to mcmaster.com they have stainless wire in all sizes up to over .100". I bought a coil of .071 from them but I like the .062 because you don't have to straighten it. Also the .071 is harder to bend with round nose pliers. Good luck, Mike Jensen | ||
| divani |
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Posts: 2061 Location: Belgium | thanks. Do you think they may sell it in local hardware stores? | ||
| strike_zone |
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Posts: 132 Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | The best place to get S/S wire is a welding goods store. You can buy it in a tube pre-cut in 36" or 1 metre lengths, in a variety of thicknesses. There are various grades of S/S. You want something hard but not brittle. A customer service guy should be able to point you to the right stuff. Sounds like you are well on your way. Keep us posted on how you make out. My home (Lake Scugog) is very stained, with a high level of suspended sediment throughout much of the season. However, some of the Kawartha Lakes I fish (ie: Pigeon and Balsam) are relatively clear. Steve Wickens | ||
| sledge51 |
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Posts: 356 Location: In the slop! | Steve's idea about the welding rod is something I had not thought of, so I did a little research. Mcmaster sells it in one or five lb. packages, 36" long, .062 or .093 dia. Any good welding supply store should have it. The 316L looked the best for lures to me, one lb. $10.00. Bicycle spokes would be another option, I have never tried them but have heard of people using them. The .093 wire would make an almost indestrucktable bait, but would be very hard to work with.Good luck and let us know how they come out, Mike Jensen. | ||
| divani |
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Posts: 2061 Location: Belgium | I actually use 1.6mm diameter welding wire (these are pieces of 3 feet long). But I'm looking for a bit stronger wire. I'll ask around in the local DIY stores next week. The only disadvantage is that you'll need to drill out a lot of parts and you must shape most yourself to be able to assemble the baits. I only used one large blade, I seem to catch more on single spin spinnerbaits. Thanks. I'll try to send some pics in a week or two. I'll finish this film first with some pics of jerkbaits. I'll try to post them on the website otherwise I'll email them to you. When I find the wire, I'll et you know how they work and what they look like. I tried the trick with the arsley bombs (lead weights with a swivel in them) and it works. The lead was soft enough to drill a hole through it with a screw-eye. I'll see whether I can find some heavier ones as well. The heavy ones that I have are made from some kind of very hard lead. It's impossible to drill through it. I made one with orange blades (tandem, for once) and two hooks, each hook tied with purple hair, hackles and pink hair. Looks great! | ||
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