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| black_dawg - 9/15/2013 11:40 AM
Guest.... There's a huge difference using manpower to burn bucktails, rather than having a boat pull baits around. I'll pay extra money for lighter rods, or reels that make cranking in baits easier. With trolling, i could careless about how much a set-up weighs, gear ratios, rod action, etc....
Absolutely. Only thing I'd take issue with is "rod action." For banging rocks on the shield rod action is critical, and some rod actions are much better than others. You want a moderate-slow action so the baits can bounce back off the rocks instead of grabbing them. But you still need a powerful mid-section on the rod to pull your jakes and believers etc. The TDR and similar glass rods (dipsy, salt boat rods, etc.) rods have this in spades.
No reason why people shouldn't buy a really sweet high-end rod for trolling. But plenty of reasons why they don't need to.
Thread is about rods not reels, but with the money you save on the rod, splurge on a dedicated trolling line counter reel like a convector instead of using one of your casting reels and counting line passes. Also, the trolling reels have louder clickers....nice for trolling. |
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| ugly stick at 30 to 40 bucks will do everything you want.keep your money for some good cranks or a tekota.expensive trolling rod is useless |
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| The guys that don't want to spend money on trolling equipment are the guys that don't know anything about trolling. I buy good trolling equipment because I'm a troller, just like a caster that buys good casting equipment. For example, I just bought two Migizi trolling rods with carboloy guides for trolling big cranks, fast, on wire line. Snapped an Ugly Stick clean in half the last time I tried banging shoals on wire line at the bay. I'm a believer in you get what you pay for with fishing equipment. |
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Posts: 4343
Location: Smith Creek | Longevity is the reason you would pay more. Cheap rods last a little while, then guides start cracking or popping off, reel seats bust loose, EVA deteriorates, blanks get softer or fail all together.
Having said that, if you get the power and action and guides you require out of a $30 rod, go for it. You can replace it 4-5 times for $120 or $150. Hopefully it doesn't cost you a lure or big fish. |
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| black_dawg - 9/15/2013 11:40 AM
Guest.... There's a huge difference using manpower to burn bucktails, rather than having a boat pull baits around. I'll pay extra money for lighter rods, or reels that make cranking in baits easier. With trolling, i could careless about how much a set-up weighs, gear ratios, rod action, etc....
Wow...you have alot to learn.... more than what meets the eye... |
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| btw all the guides i know are using ugly stick for steel line and they last for years.you should try at least one before telling so many bs.they are built to last and btw you will not get anything more with a 200 bucks rod.guys are using this for 40 pounder + flathead that fight ten times harder than any musky you can dream of so........... |
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Posts: 580
| If you're big into trolling structure and intend to make bottom contact, and using larger lures, then proper rod action can be pretty darn important. I wouldn't blame anyone for going with a high-end setup for that application. On the other hand, if you only troll open water with medium-sized baits, it's probably not as important to go high-end on your trolling rod. As Flambeauski noted, it is mostly about longevity. All that said, I troll a fair amount and like to bang structure too; and I haven't found a reason yet to upgrade from the BPS Catmaxx rods in 8-10' that I use, which are durable and quite affordable. |
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Posts: 173
Location: Green Bay, Titletown, WI | Rick Wolff - 9/16/2013 5:08 PM
black_dawg - 9/15/2013 11:40 AM
Guest.... There's a huge difference using manpower to burn bucktails, rather than having a boat pull baits around. I'll pay extra money for lighter rods, or reels that make cranking in baits easier. With trolling, i could careless about how much a set-up weighs, gear ratios, rod action, etc....
Wow...you have alot to learn.... more than what meets the eye...
Doesn't everybody?
I know what works for me. I spend quite a bit of time trolling GB all season long. My $80 TI trolling rods and $100 Daiwa line counters hold up just fine. Not a single issue with either. And I have zero problem paying top dollar for gear. And a trolling rod is nothing you have to pay top dollar for. |
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Between jano and Rick, it's a dead heat for jerk of the week. |
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| the troll claim to be a master troller not me:) |
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| I use TDR's to troll for the most part and spend far too much on custom rods for casting. Casting is my passion, trolling is a craft I work on and realize takes as much skill as casting. I guess when thinking it through, I actually caught quite a few musky casting with cheaper equipment, but enjoy it more with my custom set ups now. I am guessing if trolling is your passion, getting the best gear all blinged out probably adds to the experience and performs better as well. BR |
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| LOL... guess your right... I use my tranx with a custom 6 foot rod just to throw weagles....guess i betesraaeop noner step up.....lol... |
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| Quit typing late night....lol |
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Posts: 1224
Location: Okoboji | Ordered a tdr for my nephew. |
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| BenR - 9/16/2013 9:59 PM
I use TDR's to troll for the most part and spend far too much on custom rods for casting. Casting is my passion, trolling is a craft I work on and realize takes as much skill as casting. I guess when thinking it through, I actually caught quite a few musky casting with cheaper equipment, but enjoy it more with my custom set ups now. I am guessing if trolling is your passion, getting the best gear all blinged out probably adds to the experience and performs better as well. BR
What kind of tdr do you use to troll with? Do you have the medium heavy or the heavy. Just wondering if I should mix it up a few heavys for trolling bucktail and a few medium heavy for mid size cranks. |
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| I use med for smaller shad type baits, med heavy for 10 inch jakes. If I am trolling heavier lures, I use one of my extra heavy casting rods. BR |
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| To add to BenR's post, I've used the TDR 8' heavy to troll many many hours with jakes and believers pounding fall rocks. I don't doubt that the med heavy works great, but just so you know, the heavy is no where near TOO heavy for jakes and such. IMO anything much larger than a 10" jake and the heavy verges on not heavy enough. Maybe fine, but not sure I'd pull a plow with it. |
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| also in my experience the TDR heavy isn't too heavy for 8" believers and SS shad raps. tip has a lot of flex even on the heavy |
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Posts: 1060
Location: Palm Coast, FL | andreula - 9/14/2013 9:37 PM
Still havn't heard any solid evidence how 200-300 dollar plus trolling rods are worth their money as opposed to the cheaper trolling rods. Honestly very interested.....
Upgraded blanks. My blanks have Kevlar built into the rod butt section for better hook setting power and better lifting power. The components that go on my blanks are also of much higher quality. For instance, solid marine grade stainless steel guides (or upgrade to the carboloy guides); better shrinkwrapped handle that won't come loose after a years use; check out the reel seats that are on my trolling rods that are nickel plated brass with double locking nuts so your reel doesn't come loose and fits into those down east rod holders with ease! |
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Posts: 18
Location: Oshkosh, WI | Really loving the TDR info! Looking at picking up 4 for pulling boards, thinking the 8'6" mh is a nice choice. Hoping for double duty with small baits(5"-8") in summer and bigger baits(8"-12") in the fall. Was looking into the custom x rods for some time and just deciding against spending the money. Picked up one of his casting rods instead, definitely top notch. Thanks for the info! |
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| KurtsHookedUp - 9/18/2013 5:43 PM
Really loving the TDR info! Looking at picking up 4 for pulling boards, thinking the 8'6" mh is a nice choice. Hoping for double duty with small baits(5"-8") in summer and bigger baits(8"-12") in the fall. Was looking into the custom x rods for some time and just deciding against spending the money. Picked up one of his casting rods instead, definitely top notch. Thanks for the info!
maybe buy a mh and a h and try both before you buy 4 x mh -- jmo, mh too light for a 12" crank. your milage may very |
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Posts: 18
Location: Oshkosh, WI | I would only troll those big baits behind boards and at 3mph or less.. I have a couple heavier trolling rods for straight lines. Just want to be sure to have some flex with my boards I guess. Any other advice is appreciated! Really want to make the right call this time. |
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Posts: 2024
| Heavy TDR with a TX-44 and lockjaw clips worked well with spinnerbaits and 10" and 13" crankbaits. Good flex and handled 3-4 mph and some BIG fish just fine. |
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Posts: 84
| Regarding Ugly Stiks, I'm trying to understand which one(s) folks are recommending.
Are the Ugly Stik TIGER rods the ones that folks tend to use; specifically the BWC2201 or 2201-2pc but NOT the 2202 as it may be considered way too stiff...it's rated 30lb-60lb line?
Or, are other model Ugly Stik rods the ones suggested? |
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| Guest - 9/18/2013 5:59 PM
KurtsHookedUp - 9/18/2013 5:43 PM
Really loving the TDR info! Looking at picking up 4 for pulling boards, thinking the 8'6" mh is a nice choice. Hoping for double duty with small baits(5"-8") in summer and bigger baits(8"-12") in the fall. Was looking into the custom x rods for some time and just deciding against spending the money. Picked up one of his casting rods instead, definitely top notch. Thanks for the info!
maybe buy a mh and a h and try both before you buy 4 x mh -- jmo, mh too light for a 12" crank. your milage may very
So would you recommend just buying the heavy's for all around baits?? |
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| Guest - 9/19/2013 5:23 PM
Guest - 9/18/2013 5:59 PM
KurtsHookedUp - 9/18/2013 5:43 PM
Really loving the TDR info! Looking at picking up 4 for pulling boards, thinking the 8'6" mh is a nice choice. Hoping for double duty with small baits(5"-8") in summer and bigger baits(8"-12") in the fall. Was looking into the custom x rods for some time and just deciding against spending the money. Picked up one of his casting rods instead, definitely top notch. Thanks for the info!
maybe buy a mh and a h and try both before you buy 4 x mh -- jmo, mh too light for a 12" crank. your milage may very
So would you recommend just buying the heavy's for all around baits??
yup |
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Posts: 360
Location: Algonac, MI | We do a ton of trolling on LSC, and the trolling gives rods a workout. (fish, weather, lures, abuse, stepped on, dropped, etc) Mono line, and flouro leaders.
Best advice - Stay in your budget, but get a rod with solid ring guides, NOT inserted guides for trolling. Carbaloy tip tops, also. Trolling LSC - Medium action is perfect. For Geo Bay, where you run Parrys and Hookers....MH to Heavy.
$ for $: Ugly Stik Tiger Rod - 7' one piece Medium action (BWC-2201). IMO - best trolling rod made. If you prefer a MH action, BWC-2202.
2nd for the money - Shimano Talora with solid ring guides.
Higher end - go with RP2, Custom X, St Croix, etc...
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| Rick - I know you've been doing it for years before anyone knew what was going on in MN and remember your name from Twin Cities Chapter in early 00s and before. I am relatively new to trolling. Just never spent time doing it. Could you please take five minutes and post a recommended set up. It would be very helpful to me and others. Thanks you in advance and good luck this fall. |
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| There is alot of good advice on this thread by others....a good set-up...may of may not have to be costly...if you troll medium sized baits...anything will work....scaled down hooks...less pull....less leader diameter...I haven't trolled a 10 inch jake since 2005....and have mostly used the 17 inch custom x baits the last 4 years....never put down a 14 inch jake last year....have been using okuma convector 30 series....reels and using big game leaders from 150 to 300 lb....to control depth and change action of lures...using my cheap mudville cat-master rods...8 foot....but will be running...new 10 foot Berkeley glow sticks....perfect for the big x baits...100 pound power pro...and will be trying a saltist line counter also....my old bulletproof diawa 27 are getting old and subject to failure in extreme cold...retiring them...
And i have the biggest net made... |
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| I find you that you get what you pay for with rods in the reel seets... If your trolling trophy water, might not be the best idea to go cheap. If your a serious troller, do it once n' do it right... Tekota reels are ok not worth the $$ in my opinion, the clickers aren't loud enough for my likings. I run Convectors, and Sealine 47s only.. Both have served me well.. I did just pick up a pair of Cabelas depthmaster reels, metal frames and loud nice try clickers, and Ive heard there strong as heck. Cant wait to give em a try.. - As for rods I know guys use TRDs and ugly sticks etc etc.. But for some reason I just dont like using 2pc rods, dont ask me why its just something Id rather not do. If I'm on trophy water I don't want the fish to have any advantage if the rod goes off... I have been very pleased with bass pro cat max rods...for 70-80$ you cant go wrong. The custom X trolling rods I use are simply amazing but ($180eac).. I have also heard nothing but GREAT things about migizi rods but up there in price but has a lifetime warranty..Fenwick trolling rods are great!!! At the end of the day they'll all boat fish... I will have about a 30min video trolling for skis whenever it gets edited.. --- Ryan |
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