Muskie Discussion Forums
| ||
Moderators: Slamr | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Jump to page : 1 2 Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page] Muskie Fishing -> Muskie Boats and Motors -> Boat and freezing temps | ![]() ![]() |
Message Subject: Boat and freezing temps | |||
Teamemmajo![]() |
| ||
Posts: 30 | I want to keep fishing for the big girls until the end of the season. My problem is I can't fit my boat in my garage. I leave the motor down when I park the boat to get all the water out but I want to know if I am going to get myself in trouble with any water left in the motor during the freezing nights? I have an indoor building I can use to winterize it at the end of the season but I am just not ready to hang it up for the year! Thanks | ||
cave run legend![]() |
| ||
Posts: 2097 | There won't be any water left if the motor is down. | ||
sworrall![]() |
| ||
Posts: 32910 Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Trim it down once out of the water, fire it up for a couple seconds, and you are good. | ||
5th lake Brad![]() |
| ||
Posts: 537 Location: Gilberts IL/Rhinelander WI | Steve, is this only safe to do for the freezing nights at the end of the season? Is the deep freeze what can damage things? | ||
jchiggins![]() |
| ||
Posts: 1760 Location: new richmond, wi. & isle, mn | What Steve said is not only correct late season, but should be done all year to prevent the spread of invasives. | ||
cave run legend![]() |
| ||
Posts: 2097 | My luck I would run it to long and blow it. Edited by cave run legend 11/6/2013 9:49 PM | ||
sworrall![]() |
| ||
Posts: 32910 Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Couple seconds is all you need. You will see the water blow out the prop. | ||
Sunshine![]() |
| ||
Location: Waukesha, WI, USA | Do the same with the livewell and water pumps to livewell if you are using suckers. Learned that the hard way. | ||
Teamemmajo![]() |
| ||
Posts: 30 | Thanks for all of the helpful advice! | ||
Woodie![]() |
| ||
Posts: 7 | Asked my Yamaha dealer the same question last week and was told to lower the unit to drain it when you take it out. When you put it back in next time, let the lower unit sit in the water for a couple of minutes so that the water pump has a chance to flood before starting it up. The idea being that the water pump impellor could be frozen to the housing. Flooding it with water and letting it sit a few minutes would free it up and eliminate the possibilty of damaging the impellor. | ||
Shep![]() |
| ||
Posts: 5874 | Good advice Woodie. I will let the water drain with the motor down at the ramp while wiping the boat and trailer down. Pull the plug, empty the livewell, then run bilge and livewell pumps to make sure they are empty. Then, when the motor stops draining, I will start the motor just till it fired, and then shut it off. Trim the motor up for the transom saver, and off we go. Don't forget the kicker, do the same for it. Don't run the motor for more than a second or two. It doesn't take long to ruin an impellor. | ||
cave run legend![]() |
| ||
Posts: 2097 | Good advice guys. I just worrie about melting my impeller by using the motor out of the water even for a second. In the manual under winterizing it says to run in the water or muffs and to just leave the motor down. It does not say anything about purging. When I go out in the cold, I will let lower unit sit for a minute or so just to warm it up. | ||
Junkman![]() |
| ||
Posts: 1220 | I use a cooler with a battery operated aerrator once it's below freezing...never the live well. It's not just the impeller in the livewell pump, it's the cable controled valves that take the tank between empty, normal and recirculate...just not worth it. As to big motor, I'm told my 250 Verado is perfectly OK to run a few seconds dry so I'm with Steve on that. I also bought that new camo vest at Cabelas with the battery powered heat and it is the greatest thing since sliced bread. People over sixty have no wuss factor, it's just about feeling nice! | ||
cave run legend![]() |
| ||
Posts: 2097 | Can you take off the hood and rotate the flywheel to get the remaining water out? | ||
Brad P![]() |
| ||
Posts: 833 | I have to store mine outside to, it sucks. I regularly fish Tonka which is full of invasives so the proper technique is to drain your skeg all season long. I haven't had post freezing temp issues the past 4 seasons. As said above, just trim it all the way down. I've never fired her though. | ||
Shep![]() |
| ||
Posts: 5874 | It's only OK to pop the motor when leaving the lake after draining the lower unit. I'd never do that on a motor that had been sitting. if the impeller and housing were dry, you can ruin the impeller. | ||
keithtrophyfishn.com![]() |
| ||
Posts: 42 Location: Ontario | If your worried about blowing the motor pull the kill switch then it won't fire up but will still turn over thus removing the water | ||
Junkman![]() |
| ||
Posts: 1220 | Here's the cooler | ||
Junkman![]() |
| ||
Posts: 1220 | No, maybe here is the cooler Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
Propster![]() |
| ||
Posts: 1901 Location: MN | You sure you're on the right thread Marty? ![]() | ||
LarryJones![]() |
| ||
Posts: 1247 Location: On the Niagara River in Buffalo, NY | If your in waves water will go backward through Livewell drains and can leave water in the circulation pump of the livewell to freeze and damage the pump.Put clip plugs in the livewell drain holes and pour some pink antifreeze in each livewell. | ||
Junkman![]() |
| ||
Posts: 1220 | Sorry about that, I guess I was just so proud of my cooler that I wanted to show it off. Really though, I think the thread can easily be expanded to all the stuff you do to make fishing when it's really cold work for you. I know that there are some pretty good tricks out there. I always thought I was pretty slick having 10-12 pairs of gloves in the boat so that I could keep changing into a dry pair, and then one day I bought a pair of gloves that never need to be changed and have as good a spool feel as my thumb. It's a moving target! | ||
oconesox![]() |
| ||
Posts: 288 Location: Oconomowoc, WI | I think that's a great idea Marty. I've kept a three suckers alive in a similar set-up in my garage for the the last two weeks. Why risk it, when the suckers are just as happy in the cooler as they would be in our livewell. | ||
Jeremy![]() |
| ||
Posts: 1145 Location: Minnesota. | I'd just like to say "THANK YOU" for all you guys who obviously take enough care to do as much as you do to shield against transporting those #*^@able invasives. Wish more fishermen would take your care!! Jeremy....off my pulpit now! | ||
jjmuskie![]() |
| ||
Posts: 208 Location: Sun Prairie, WI | You wont blow the motor in a sec or two or 30 or even 5 min. All you need is to watch the pee stream. as soon as the solid stream of water stops kill it. Should take no more than 5 seconds. | ||
cave run legend![]() |
| ||
Posts: 2097 | 5 minutes? | ||
Sunshine![]() |
| ||
Location: Waukesha, WI, USA | Also, in cold water let your engine run for a few minutes before taking off from the ramp. Let the engine warm up. It doesn't like cold water until it is warmed up. | ||
jjmuskie![]() |
| ||
Posts: 208 Location: Sun Prairie, WI | Yes its not gonna blow up in 5 mins without water. The water pump wont last but the motors not gonna just expode. Would I do it? No. I was just sayin that a few seconds without water isn't gonn hurt the motor. And yes always let it warm up in cold conditions. It can cold seize otherwise. This happens when the aluminum pistons warm up and expand faster than the steel cylinder walls. Things get tighter and tighter then they stop. | ||
beefcake4000![]() |
| ||
Wouldn't be a bad idea to change the fluid in your lower unit if you haven't in a while. | |||
Junkman![]() |
| ||
Posts: 1220 | Got several PM's about the gloves. They are made by a company called Ice Bay, and purchased at Mills Fleet Farm! | ||
Jump to page : 1 2 Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page] | ![]() ![]() |
Search this forum Printer friendly version E-mail a link to this thread |


Copyright © 2025 OutdoorsFIRST Media |