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Posts: 320
| Awesome topic section. My question is that I have been tinkering with a unique topwater bait for the last couple of years. I just handpainted them but want to look at getting an airbrush and getting a little more professional in my patterns. My questions for now are:
What kind of airbrush do I need without getting too pricey?
What netting sizes and other accessories do I need to begin painting more realistic patterns?
What paint brands spray the best?
What other information do I need to help me get ahead of the learning curve? Secrets? Mistakes you have made?
That's all for now although I know I will have many other questions in the future. Thanks in advance for any help and insight you can give me. Good luck in 2006!!!!!! |
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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | As far as air brush, Harbor freight has some. Maybe 10.00 up to ?. I started out cheap, and worked up. You will need an air compresser. Netting, that depends on the size of your bait. Go to a fabric store, and tell them what you have it mind. There is a lot of things you can use. Paint, I use acrilic( spelling) water base, just for the clean up. Just remember!! If it isn't what you want, prime over it again, and start over. Have fun. I'll garentee, you are tring to impress your self, not the fish. Again, just have fun. Good Luck Doug |
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Posts: 619
Location: Verona, WI | i use a Paasche VL that i paid $60 for at dixieart.com. I like it, it's relatively inexpensive, and it is easy to clean. Plus local shops like Hobby Lobby carry parts. As far as netting, I just buy laundry bags and cut them up. I use Createx air brush paint (the regular water based stuff).
As far as advice, experiment. I hated airbrusing until I began to start thinning my paint. Makes it easier to clean up, less splatter, and longer run times without having to clean up the brush.
Shan e |
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Posts: 479
Location: Eden Prairie & Pine Island | There a re several air brushes that will serve you well, but be sure to plan on getting a compressor, too. |
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Posts: 140
| Shane,
What do you use to thin your paint with? The airbrush restorer or something else.
Mike |
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Posts: 619
Location: Verona, WI | Mike,
For water paints I just thin with water. The other hint I learned recently after spending money on air brush cleaner is to shoot Windex through your airbrush to keep it clean between colors.
Shane |
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Posts: 1438
| Cool, haven't heard the Windex idea before.
I start by using a hard white enamel out of a regular spray can as a base coat.
Th airbrush I have is a Paasche single action. Was in the 60-70 dollar range. Now that I've been doing this for a while, I'd probably change to a double action for my next one. I have it hooked up to my regular air compressor but just have it dialed down to like 20 lbs or so.
I originally used the Testors model paint at first. Worked OK but cleanup was a pain. Just switched to Createx for the last couple paints I did. That seemed to work pretty well and cleanup was a lot easier. Although, I just recently had discussion with a couple of other painters and they have seriously recommended going to automobile paints. House of Kolor is one brand, I'm sure there are others. They all agreed that the colors and painting options are unlimited when going to these types of paints. You have to have a heated area to paint and ventilation for this type of paint though.
I have been using Envirotex for the clear coats. That's messy as well, but I've been getting a good finish from it. I don't have a bait turner so I hang it from one end for a while then turn it to the other end. As the finish thickens you can wait longer to turn it.
Scott
Edited by theedz155 1/11/2006 5:44 AM
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Posts: 2112
Location: The Sportsman, home, or out on the water | Try Createx Auto Air. Its awesome. |
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Posts: 2384
Location: On the X that marks the mucky spot | I've been using Createx and think it blows. I've been trying to change over to Testors. The nice thing about Testors is that it covers. I use 1/5 the amount of black in Testors that I did with Createx. Testors is also MUCH easier to control. I get less overspray and can create much better detail with the Testors. The one thing I will give to Createx is that their colors are better. |
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Location: Duluth, MN - Superior, WI | Todd,
#1. I use the Paasche VL that I also got from dixieart.com.
#2. I also use laundry bags it is had to find that size of netting in fabric stores. For templates I use transparencies that you would use on an overhead screen.
#3. If you are starting out use good airbrush paint. Yea, some use the cheaper wal-mart craft paint. But for someone starting out you don’t need to add more problems. Get a big large piece of cardboard and experiment making nice lines.
#4. Use good paint and start on a flat surface.
-Corey
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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | Scott, Testers has water base paint all so. I get testers at Hobby Haven. I get Cretex at Dick Blick, an art store. Good Luck Doug |
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Location: Des Moines IA | Couldn't you use both? Testor's for the black, then Createx auto for the colors? |
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Posts: 2112
Location: The Sportsman, home, or out on the water | I've done Createx, and Createx Auto air, and even mixed them. I have not tried two different brands on the same bait though. Createx does a good job for coverage, but Auto Air's Iredescent colors just rock (except red, I hate Iredescent red). Pearlized colors kick butt to.
Edited by muskynightmare 1/16/2006 11:07 PM
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | Beware that Auto Air reacts with etex so you won't be able to use the two of them together.
Does anyone know where you can buy larger bottles of the Testors? I wanted to try some but not interested in buying just a cute little bottle of the stuff.
jed v. |
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Posts: 2112
Location: The Sportsman, home, or out on the water | I'm not using e-tex, so it is not a problem. |
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Posts: 619
Location: Verona, WI | Jed,
Try the Testors web site, www.testors.com. I saw they sell 3 oz bottles there.
Shane |
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Posts: 303
Location: Valentine, NE USA | Jed -
What problems are you having with the e-tex / auto air combination????
b
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Posts: 1207
Location: Pigeon Forge TN. | Everyone has their own preference about airbrushes.
When I painted commercial I had sixty some airbrushes and put a lot of wear to them. I ended up using all Badger, though all the airbrushes mentioned are good but I like the Badger because of their lifetime warranty. Some of the airbrush companies have a handling or shipping fee, I have never been charged anything for rebuilding or replacing from Badger. The 350's run $30.00 or less. |
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Posts: 4266
| I'm baaaaack!
My 2 cents.
I use a Pasche double action. It does the job when the paint is the right consistency.
Paint? I use nothing but House of Kolor acrylic laquers. Actually it's car paint. I tried all kinds
of water-based paints. Createx, Palmer.......tossed them. Lousy coverage, and it takes too much time to dry.
With the HOK paint, I can do 10 lures of one pattern. Lay down a coat on lure #1, and by the time I'm done
with putting a coat on lure#5, I can hold #1 in my hands. It dries hard as a rock too. Covers in one coat, even when you are
putting a light color over a dark one. It costs more. The fumes make it outdoor work only. They make the best
color shifting products on the market. Pearls, metalics, neons....every color of the rainbow. Did I mention it dries in a minute depending on the reducer, and can be thinned to a watery consistency, so it sprays like a charm. It's a bit pricy, but I'm willing to spend the extra money to put down the best and toughest colors that I can find.
Good to be back on-line. My wife was amazed by how much house work got done when we didn't have a computer.
Back to reality. Now I just need to get painting. I've got about 400 bodies of various sizes and styles ready to go, now I just need warmth or the facilities. Gotta get 'r done before my daughter gets out of school. She takes priority over painting lures this year.
Beav |
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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | Good to have you back BEAV. I enjoy looking at your paint jobs.
Doug |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | When you use etex over polytranspar it causes the paint to blister. I had the same problem with Createx Auto Air. I use only Wal-Mart Cheap Paints and regular Createx, both water-based paints. I think what Beav said is very true about the auto paints...they apparently cover better and they most certainly provide for a wider variety of options. The acrylic paints I am using do have a problem covering, particularly the white when trying to hide foil lines. The water based paints also have a nasty habit of clogging the brush tip which is a constant hassle.
However, for me, I like the safety associated with the water based paints. I fire up my compressor in the bedroom, let it fully charge the tank, then I roll the tank out into a room with good lighting next to our tv room. I can sit there and paint for two hours next to my boys watching tv with the only sound being the brush and it doesn't bother anyone..............and it's safe! I also like that I can clean up my brush with hot water. And in the event that I make a mistake on a lure (which I often do), I simply walk over to the sink and with some warm water wash off all the paint and start over again.
jed v.
Edited by RiverMan 1/20/2006 10:07 AM
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Posts: 61
Location: Hyvinkää, Finland, Europe | I use for my lures regular car paints by Spies & Hecker. I use for thinning aceton or different mixes of xylen and aceton.
Cover (after painting) lacquing by one component concrete lacque (Finnish stuff called LV-1). It makes hard cover and do not make my paints flow at all.
Paint and lacque steams are risk so I use respirator mask when I use those.
Here's few pic's of my gliders:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Jio/Mid-Tsilakka002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Jio/Mid-Ts010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Jio/Mid-Ts008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Jio/belly2ISO.jpg
Edited by Jio 1/20/2006 1:36 PM
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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | You guys are throwing out the big words. After you have painted your lures, with Cretex,and dried, have you ever gave them a coat of clear spay, from a puff can? I haven't done as many lures as you guys, so I'm sure not tring to tell you how to do it. Just asking.
Doug |
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Posts: 2112
Location: The Sportsman, home, or out on the water | The clear coat from a spray can, in my opinion, will not be thick enough, and very runny. The Urethane that I use does not build up too much, but they get 5 dips. |
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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | I'm sorry, I didn't finish. By spraying the finished lure, with a puff can of clear, would this be enough of a coat to keep the finish from running when you put the top coat on?
Doug |
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Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | Doug - I have done that when I put a lighter color over a dark one and it helps it cover better. The paint has to be dry first though. |
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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | Roger, With the spray clear on, the dark color doesn't absorb the light color. Right? |
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| Thats right it helps but with a thin light color it takes a few more coats. Also some colors bleed threw and it seals it and stops the bleed threw. |
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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | I just screwed a paint job up. I had a lure painted, and put some ribs on, with a black sharpie. Evidently, they weren't dry,when I put a coat of puff can clear on. They ran alittle. Now the bait looks like it moving fast, when it's sitting still. I can't put the clear coat on yet, because it's too cold in the garage. So I paint some lures up, and when it warms up, then I coat them. Lesson being, TAKE YOUR TIME Doug |
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Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | Sharpes can be a pain, they will run easy. I do not use them for that reason. Also with a bait that they have been used on they need to be sanded off completely or it bleeds threw. |
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