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Posts: 325
Location: Otsego, MN | My rod locker lid has a small spider crack on it and feels spongy when walked on. I am wanting to repair it myself rather then pay Ranger or a fabrication shop a lot of money for a new one. Just curious if anyone has done this and how they went about it. Here are three ideas I have so far...
1.) Cut a piece of aluminum to attach to the bottom of the lid to spread out any force and prevent breaking. How to attach? Glue, pop rivet, bolt, unsure.
2.) Attach a support beam (think of a I-beam or similar support) to the bottom of the lid to spread stress out across a larger area.
3.) Lay fiberglass on the inside of the box and build up the area near the stress crack.
Any input, ideas, recommendations or thoughts are much appreciated. |
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Posts: 357
Location: Duluth, MN | Get some glass fabric and a resin of some sort and do a wet lay. Best fix for any type on laminate damage on fiberglass. May have to romove the carpet and put plies on both sides, but it will be structurally sound. Oh and make sure oyu prep (sand) the area you intend to repair! |
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Posts: 994
Location: Minnesota: where it's tough to be a sportsfan! | My choice would be the support bar, but I would add bait hangers on the inside so there would be a dual purpose. You could hang plastics or spinnerbaits etc... |
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Posts: 233
| When my lids developed soft spots and spider cracks, Ranger replaced them all (9) at no cost. Give them a call. |
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Posts: 1416
Location: oconomowoc, wi | Buy a new Ranger! |
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Posts: 1638
Location: Minnesota | How old of a boat is it? Call ranger see what happens |
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Posts: 325
Location: Otsego, MN | I called Ranger and since its a 2000 and I am the 3rd owner that pretty much said tuff luck! They did offer to sell me a new one or send me some fiberglass reinforcement for the inside but both of those options weren't cheap... The lady I spoke with was very polite but just wouldn't budge on the price.
I will keep researching but think I will add a fiberglass material or composite material to the underside and use a marine epoxy or adhesive to start. If that doesn't feel better then I will add bolts through the lid but would rather not as that would be visible and no longer leak proof.
Thanks guys  |
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Posts: 5874
| I'd find the ends of the cracks, and drill a 3/16 or 1/4" hole through there to stop the crack from going further. Then I'd grind a v groove the length of the crack on both sides, and finally do the fiberglass mat repair on both sides. |
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Posts: 357
Location: Duluth, MN | Shep - 1/21/2015 11:44 AM
I'd find the ends of the cracks, and drill a 3/16 or 1/4" hole through there to stop the crack from going further. Then I'd grind a v groove the length of the crack on both sides, and finally do the fiberglass mat repair on both sides.
Ahh yes I forgot the stop drilling of the cracks! Standard procedure in the aircraft industry!
Edited by bdog 1/21/2015 12:20 PM
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