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Posts: 793
Location: Ames, Iowa | Just bought a new starting battery after getting 8 years out of my dual purpose battery. Both batteries by themselves start the motor great. Problem is when I hook up the navigation/dash and the console mount Humminbird, the motor doesn't always start- just get a click, spark, nothing. Now it also did this with the previous battery.
When I take the nav/dash and Humminbird + and - leads off, motor starts right up.
Even after sanding and scraping the leads to get a great connection, I can get no start. Is this related to sulfating of the + lead. I am about ready to rewire both + and - leads all around. Is there a better way to keep the contamination off other than baking powder and H2O. |
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Posts: 1901
Location: MN | There are guys here that know a lot more about this stuff and will likely chime in, but if your new battery is a cranking only that could be part of your problem. When you but electronics and other accessories on it that drain it it may lack the voltage necessary to start it. As for the clicking noises from both I don't know. And on a new battery like that sulfation shouldn't have taken hold already. |
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Posts: 2754
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | DJ - The galvanic corrosion of the positive lead is quite common. Its not really sulfating, thats an internal battery issue related to under charging. Galvanic corrosion occurs when there are two dissimilar metals, and moisture. I would redo the motor leads with new tinned lugs.
The main motor cables should go on first, then the others and finally stainless steel flat washer & lock washer and nuts, do not use regular steel or brass. Many use wing nuts, if you do, tighten them with a pair of channel lock pliers.
Make sure your battery is mounted in a dry location, preferably in a battery box w/cover. Lastly use a anti-corrosion product to protect/seal the terminations to prevent ingress of moisture.
http://www.westmarine.com/wiring-tools/crc-marine--marine-battery-t...
Some old mechanics use grease, e.g., the same you use for bearings, etc. The only problem is its messy. But works if nothing else is available. Use a brush to put it on.
No matter which you use, you want to seal the entire connection.
Good luck!
Al |
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Posts: 793
Location: Ames, Iowa | Maniac- I was hoping you'd opine. Yep I thought the leads were the problem. I will get on just what you wrote.
Thanks Al!! |
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Posts: 1901
Location: MN | Al, how often do you have to re-apply that spray? Tho messy, the grease does last a long time. |
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Posts: 2754
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | I do it every spring - disassemble, check & clean all battery terminals. Then spray them from 360 deg. Moisture is the enemy!
Have fun!
Al |
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Posts: 148
Location: Northwest Wi. | I'm with ESOX Manic on this-good advice, The only thing I can add is to check your voltage with a digital voltmeter also..Could be something else bad is going on such as a voltage bleed..after charging, take a reading (12.5v or better) wait a few days then take another, should be close to the same if everything is OK.. |
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Posts: 2754
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | Yes, digital voltage check is valuable tool both when charging and after charging.
Now a lot during charging is related to type of battery and the charger. However, generally these are the voltages you should see.
VRLA- sealed no maintenance. Charging -> 13.6-13.8VDC Resting -> 12.7VDC
Wet cell or starting battery - Charging ->13.8 - 14.4 VDC Resting -> 12.7VDC
Resting/open circuit = 8-24hrs after charging or charger shuts off.
The battery resting voltage will slowly drift down as the battery ages over time, when it hits ~12.4VDC you might want to consider a new battery or have it checked for capacity.
Yes, I know its a 12V battery, so why consider replacement if its at 12.4 to 12.5VDC???? Answer: because the 12VDC is the nominal jar voltage (marketing), a 12V lead-acid battery actually has a open circuit voltage of ~12.7VDC when its fully charged and at 100% capacity.
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/nominal
Have fun!
Al |
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