Muskie Discussion Forums
| ||
Random quote: If it has tires or "ta ta's", eventually you're going to have trouble with it. - (Added by: mikie) |
Moderators: Slamr | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page] More Muskie Fishing -> Basement Baits and Custom Lure Painting -> Jerkbait Weighting Question |
Message Subject: Jerkbait Weighting Question | |||
Yake Bait |
| ||
Posts: 388 | I am in the process of making a maple jerkbait that has a spinner blade built into the body. Initial bouyancy checks in the sink have forced me to use hollow metal beads to keep the weight down. Metal hardware for thru wire and hook hangers as well as the hooks gives most of the requied balast. Right now the tail hook makes the bait sink in a tail heavy way. I can get the bait to barely float by leaving the tail hook off. My guess is by the time this bait is painted and epoxied, it will be neutral bouyant and the tail hook will mess with the tuning. Other than going froma 0.040" blade to a 0.020", any other comments of suggestions on how to maintain the correct weight distribution? It is not too late to put a lip on this baby and make it a crank bait either if that is the only solution. I attached two photos of the bait, pre and post assembly... Thanks Edited by Pete Yake 1/6/2008 3:08 PM Attachments ---------------- PICT3891b.JPG (46KB - 103 downloads) PICT3892b.JPG (50KB - 96 downloads) | ||
Tackle Industries |
| ||
Posts: 4053 Location: Land of the Musky | I think going wiht the 0.02 blade woudl help a lot. Also, you could drop some of your spacer beads and replace them with oversized Lindy Rig floaters. I have used these on a few baits that sunk too quickly and they worked out great. As long as you have a metal bead behind your blade that should be good enough for not wearing down the floats. Cool lure! James Attachments ---------------- LureA.jpg (55KB - 108 downloads) | ||
h2os2t |
| ||
Posts: 941 Location: Freedom, WI | Pete - interesting idea. I would add weight to the front bottom and it would probably stabilize the bait when the blade starts moving. A lip would work also, might need that anyway as I think the blade would toss it around. A lighter wood would compensate for the weight if you wanted to keep it light. | ||
seeking 54 |
| ||
Posts: 67 | Pete, not to take away from your design, but have you considered a buzzbait blade instead? s54 | ||
Yake Bait |
| ||
Posts: 388 | Thanks for the suggestions guys. If all else fails, what do you think about leaving the back hook off the bait? Bouyancy and balance are just about perfect when this is done. I'm mainly interested in if the concept works. Hoping to get some flash and metalic noise with the spinner. If I make a second version of this bait, it will undoubtably be with cedar so less tweaking will be required. Edited by Pete Yake 1/6/2008 9:12 PM | ||
Guest |
| ||
The blade doesn't look like it will have enough clearance to spin??? | |||
Yake Bait |
| ||
Posts: 388 | Don't think it will spin without hitting something, actually hoping that is what happens. Depends on how wide the blade flares out. Main objective is to create some flash and motion and also some metalic noise when the blade hits againts the beads. If it doesn't work I can always hang it up as a basement decoration | ||
Water Goat |
| ||
Posts: 9 | Put a little bit more weight in the front maybe like a pencil weight but a small one. Then when you put the epoxy on put it on a little thicker on the front side or 2 coats on the front should even things out for you. Cool lure!!! Wish I would of thought of it. | ||
Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page] |
Search this forum Printer friendly version E-mail a link to this thread |
Copyright © 2024 OutdoorsFIRST Media |