|
|
Posts: 219
Location: Ohio | I've been playing around with a lathe and have a hard time getting cedar to be smooth. Seems like it splits or comes off in chunks everytime. Is it the kind of cedar I'm using or is there some kind of trick? Just wondered how everyone else like wiley, newman, etc. does it with cedar. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 179
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan | I use both western red cedar and eastern white cedar for most of my baits. Avoid any knotty blanks because they will split and chunk. The secret is super sharp lathe tools and take off small amounts on each pass...lots of practice also helps
Rod |
|
| |
|
Posts: 139
| I am no expert just started with a lathe this past winter and also found that you want sharp tools otherwise it tends to take out bigger than what you want bite. when I am done I usually use a corse sand paper to get it close to smooth than go to a more finer grit sand paper. Try maple wood It tends to be more smoothe and turns down nicely on a lathe, just what I have noticed also heard it is very strong. I am aslo learning as I go.
Edited by Shamrocker 4/1/2012 12:50 PM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 1529
| good knifes. we sand with 150grit then 180. sanding sealer then scuff then prime. as for maple on lures paint sheds from hardwoods. we sharpen our cutters on the duplicater every 100 pieces |
|
| |
|
Posts: 219
Location: Ohio | Thanks for the replies. I will sharpen my tools and give it another try. Not sure what kind of cedar I'm using, I get it free from a mobile home company. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1106
Location: Muskegon Michigan | One other point no one mentioned is lathe speed. I run mine on the fastest possible speed and echo the need for sharp tools. You should also look for for tight grain cedar. Blanks with the skinniest growth rings. I use nothing but tight grain cedar and it machine's so much better that wide grain . Mike |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1224
Location: Okoboji | yep it is all about the knifes i need to get mine sharpened i think rocker does them on site.. |
|
| |
