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| Hey Nate, In that tutorial it says to wait 24 hours to let cure before painting. If you could paint an hour after the final coat it would be great, but I'm guessing you wait overnight atleast? |
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| I personally have painted the same day, but at the time there wasnt much humidity and I had a heated area that helped dry the finish up faster. An hour may be pushing it but I have done it in a few hours (all depends on how thick of a coat of sealer you have) Best of luck
Nate |
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| Hey Nate,
When you say sealer you are refering to the Plastic brew correct? Just want to make sure. Also Do you think if you only use 2 coats that it would still keep it fariley water proof? Thanks again |
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| Yes thats what I mean. Depending upong how thick your solution is that may do it, I usually try to use a thinner solution and then more coats since it dries faster in my opinion
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Posts: 56
| Nate, after painting, what do you recommend to use as a protective coat? thanks Tim |
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Posts: 502
Location: Lincoln UK | Great ino Nate. |
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| I have used Envirotex, Devcon 2 Ton, and regular old Rustoleum Clear Laquer with success. The rustoleum is obviously not very durable but it gets the job done for testing things out. I personally prefer Envirotex. |
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| Homoclad is a mystery liquid, I tried it, don't buy it. It's spendy and all it did was stop some of the grain from raising on basswood and oak. After a lot of trial and error,two things work great. Bull's eye sanding sealer (alchohol based) quick no mess and (quick) The other was epoxy thinned with alchohol or Acetone, or lacquer thinner. thinned epoxi still has to be sanded down, unless you let it penatrate then wipe it down.
Blair from no box
Noboxlures.com |
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Posts: 50
| I use the same sealer/basecoat as Rapala & other European builders & i can tell you this that all dripoffs&cured/can be used over &over again .I have sent this stuff worldwide to fellow builders & many swears by it since you soak/dip your lures then just hang up to dry/cure ,you can dip up to 5 times /hour if temperatures is right .It can be used as a topcoat over some acrylics too |
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Posts: 119
| castmaster - 10/18/2006 2:05 PM
rapala uses a different form of the plasti dip on their lures and they seem to hold up well.
Here is a link to what Rapala uses on their lures. I use this also and it works great for sealing the lure before painting. I actually bought mine from Swede also. Very easy to use, and very fast drying. Take the time to read through both pages and get a good understanding of it. 
http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8603&highli...
Edited by Jason413 4/11/2007 6:21 PM
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| how do you know a thinner is virgin ? Local jardware stores and Home Depot carry thinner as do auto body shop suppliers. Just sure how to tell if its virgin. Thanks for all the great info. |
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Posts: 190
| Guest it will say virgin on it or it is not virgin. This vrgin thinner is a more pure and stronger thinner and you should be able to find it at Autozone and Walmart. Those are the only places I have found it and I am not surprised that a hardware store knew nothing about it because min didnt either.Good luck
Doug Bradley |
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Posts: 309
Location: canada | have to agree , prop dip is the best sealer around, thin coats, milk like thickness, first dip, let it sit for a while.let the bubbles escape from the wood, take it out, let dry, light sand after, then repeat dips, until you are satisfied with the coverage/ smoothness, then let it sit for a day , primer, your choice here, but if you can get it white laquer primer is the cats @ss to use, if you use a acrylic based primer,and only use createx paints, and heatset every coat of paint you can use it as a top coat as well, other brands like apple barrel, ceramcoat, etc will/can have bleeding /running probs if you use it as a top coat, so in that case just top coat with etex, dev, or Nu lustre(my fav) hope this helps, and if any one needs the prop pellets, get them from the prop master himself SWEDE, just as i did ,and have others, Etch |
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Posts: 1530
| etch did you use the number for the primer. i hope it worked out for you. |
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| The best sealer Ive ever used is Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES). It seals the wood perfectly. It "glues" the woodfibers together and makes the wood rockhard. The only drawback is that its very toxic, so take it easy and follow all the safety guidelines.
US-information can be found at: http://www.smithandcompany.org/
Mag / Noisey Cricket
SWEDEN
My homemade baits: www.mag.nu
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Location: rhinelander ,wi. | I'm a boatwright, meaning I restore old Chris Crafts and Garwoods and such. We seal all our wood with CPES, it will not allow the wood to rot. It is the best stuff on the market for sealing new or old wood - Period! You can find it at places like West Marine or any other wooden boat repair site. It will even seal your chewed up baits that have exposed wood.
Good luck,
Pat
Musky Mafia Tackle Com.
Edited by muskymafia 4/22/2007 12:23 PM
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| Great thread guys, some good tips and things to avoid.
I'm in Australia so we dont have all the same products you guys have available (or at least not by the same names) and I haven't been able to find CPES yet but I've used something called megaseal which seems to work pretty well.
Cheers,
Dean
http://dripdryshowers.com.au
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