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Posts: 786
Location: Minnesota | How do you guys make your glide baits? I have a few 12 inch blanks I think I can make glide baits out of. Do you guys drill holes and pop in bullet weights or do you router out a belly line and melt in lead or solder? Any pics woudl help too. Just want to make a few for myself for fun for 2007 Canada pike fishing and some muskie fishing. Iw ill post my blanks next.
TIA,
James |
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Posts: 786
Location: Minnesota | Here is what I started with and the rough work I have done so far. Four 7/16oz bullets in the belly and one 5/16oz. in the head. With hooks, rings etc it just sinks. I am assuming the paint and epoxy will have a small amount of effect but am not sure of the total effect. Will be fun to see how they run this year.
Thanks,
James
Edit:
LOL! Not sure why it scrunched up my pics. The bait is 12 inches long and looks like a grandma...
Edited by Grunt Lures 1/8/2007 5:43 PM
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Posts: 480
| It looks like you are using hard maple. Maple doesn't need much lead to make it sink, and more than likely it will crack in late fall water. I suggest changing to a less dense wood such as cedar, basswood, alder, clear pine or phillipine mahogany. Glide baits aren't as easy to make as they look. Good luck |
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Posts: 786
Location: Minnesota | Thanks Capt. Maple is right. I plan on triple sealing the bait, prime twixe, paint and then put three coast of industrial epoxy on it. I already had the blanks and nothign to do with them. Thanks for the wood suggestion. If these work half way decent I will go with one and make some more.
James |
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Posts: 786
Location: Minnesota | PS- "more than likely it will crack in late fall water"
I have fishged with a lot of maple baits and have yet to have a well made one crack on me. I have a few in my box that have been fished with for 10 years plus... Buy better baits 
James |
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| I'm with Grunt on the maple. I've never had one crack in the fall, and I've been using maple for 5 years.
Double dipped in primer/sealer, 3 coats of Envirotex......why would they crack?
It's kiln dried lumber and I waterproof it. Do you mean that maple expands and contracts that much in cold water?
This is the first time that I've ever heard of any reference to lures splitting in cold water.
Hell, Bagleys are made out of balsa, and I throw DB 6's and 8's til freeze up and they don't crack.
I don't understand. |
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Posts: 479
Location: Eden Prairie & Pine Island | Ditto on liking to use Maple for gliders. With respect to weighting and action, you really have to experiment with it and even then each lure can perform a little differently because of the wood grain, etc. If you want a lot of belly roll, a taller lure with the weight distributed in a way to encourage the instability will be the ticket; if you want a good side to side glide, then your weight distribtuion will be different as the weight helps the momentum instead. This is where you really wish you had an indoor pool for winter lure research. Good luck, Grunt. |
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Posts: 786
Location: Minnesota | I weighted the one in the picture towards the middle (belly) of the bait in hopes I could get it to role slightly and then right itself while it desends. My next one I will try to make almost bouyant so that it drops about 1"/sec. I think that will be a good slow working bait. This one drops about 6-10"/sec. |
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| Good luck with the glide baits. My new model, the mini floating Power Probe, took about 20 prototypes to get one to work and I know how to weight them. Once you get one to glide then you have to make adjustments in the weights to make them either sink or even more difficult, to swim at five feet then still be able to float. Getting one to sink at only 1" per second would be considered to have neutural bouyancy and although it's a nobel goal to have, it would be impossible to achieve. Also glide baits need to be pulled from the front and swing from the rear so you can't use a through wire connecting the rear hook with the front peg because then you are actually pushing the lure not pulling it so it can't swing. Hope this helps. |
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Posts: 107
Location: Mayer, MN | Maple is the way to go. Have had no problems with cracking either. |
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| American Hardwood Lures/Phil Drury had all kinds of problems getting the epoxy to not crack for a while. But he solved it, so while the problem exists it isn't impossible to deal with.
If glide baits are so tough to make, why are there so many out there? |
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Posts: 786
Location: Minnesota | Never had a problem with my epoxy. In fact your post is the first post I have heard of someonce epoxy cracking. I use multiple coats too. I have even hit my baits with a hammer and they did not crack. Just dented the grunt in a little. |
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Posts: 786
Location: Minnesota | Four are ready to paint! I made my blanks, drilled the holes and popped in bullet weights to make the baits just sink. I then took a small drill bit and fine tuned the lead out to make them just a touch nose heavy and sink. I did all this with 4/0 hooks. I can fine toon now in the water iwth larger hooks in the three different 092 screw eyes. Now if the #*^@ things just work! Glad it is not too cold this year. May get into the water a little early??? lol
James |
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Posts: 786
Location: Minnesota | Well here is what the new 12 inch LIL-GRUNT GLIDERS look like. I made three of the four nose dive slightly and one is balanced to go down flat. Not sure what the line/leader will do. They all drop about 3-4 inches/sec. Weighted all of htem wiht 5/0 hooks and then used 4/0 hooks due to the epoxy and paint adding a little more weight than I thought they would. Found some real nice glitter at the hobby shop. I think I will start using it on my GRUNTS. First picture is after the first epoxy and glitter on only one. The second picture has teh second coat of epoxy that had teh glitter added. I don't think I will be making these for my business..... Hell, I just hope these work for myself and my son! Can't wait for open water. I think with this warming Minnesota shoudl open up in mid Feb. lol
James
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Posts: 613
Location: big cove tannery pa | They look pretty good to me,i would purchase a couple if you decide to make more and sell them. |
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Posts: 107
Location: Mayer, MN | Hey grunt did the glitter you got go into the paint and sprayed on or was it sprinkled on later? The only glitter I found seemed to big for my airbrush.
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Posts: 786
Location: Minnesota | mmclain6101,
Mine was a fine glitter from Michaels ($3.29/oz.). Bought the purple, black, red, and a light blue. The light blue was the ONLY one that actually worked! The others did not add any "glitter" effect. I mixed in 1 tsp glitter/250ml epoxy for my clear coat. I added the glitter to my second application of epoxy to keep is slightly away from the painted surface to hopefully give it a little more effect. Looks GREAT! I usually hit my baits with a light mist of a silver paint I use tha t has ultra fine glitter in it. While that works great as well, the glitter I used definitly add a different kind of effect. More like actual scales to me.
Hope that helps,
James |
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Posts: 619
Location: Verona, WI | I add the glitter the same way James does - I add it to the epoxy when I am mixing it and just brush it on. I know Createx sells a glitter that you can airbrush with but I get enough airbrush sputter without adding glitter to it.
Shane |
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| I add it to the epoxy too.
I put it in the second to last layer so that the lure is still slick after the final coat.
Those are some nice looking lures.
Beav |
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