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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | Do any of you use a router to do the edges on your baits? How do you use it? Thanks Doug |
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Posts: 619
Location: Verona, WI | Doug,
I do...but I get the heebie jeebies everytime I do. I just bought a new router table, a Bench Dog, that has a good guard on it so I would have to do something pretty stupid to get cut but it is a risk. I know Jed still uses an old fashioned rasp.
Shane |
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Posts: 393
Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | I sure do, but the number one rule here must be SAFETY! Safety goggles or better yet a face mask are an absolute.
Awareness of what you and the bit are doing is essential. I use a router table with either 1/4" or 1/2" bits. Many light passes are crucial to produce an even cut without burning, chipping or splitting the wood - not to mention the safety of all body parts. If your intention is to make a number of blanks, have them all prepped and ready for the router before you begin. You can do production work fairly quickly.
I'll be moving to a CNC router and lathe in the coming weeks. Same principles, but much more precise and easier too. |
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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | Is there such a thing as a small router? Craftsman has a router table that uses a dremel, Of course, I bought it, now I can't figure it out. Thanks for the rely guys. Doug |
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Posts: 393
Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | Dremels (and their look a likes) have a 1/8" collett (the part that holds the bit). Most consumer or contrator routers use either a 1/4" or 1/2" shank and the 1/2" ones will usually have more bigger motors. Beyond that, you're into shapers, but those things are even more dangerous! |
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Posts: 2112
Location: The Sportsman, home, or out on the water | Hi, my name is Rob, and i survived a router table. LOL
Seriously, yes i do use a round over bit on the router table, but it scares the $h!t out of me. I was making some custom bsaeboard trim for my brother 3 years ago, and somehow, my left index finger got sucked into the bit. Of course, I was doing this on company time, so i couldn't "Claim"it on workers comp for fear of getting busted, so I chose not to get medical help. That thing derned near took my finger tip off. It took 4 months for the thing to heal enough to the point when water on it did not make me want to end my life. Be careful, use guards, etc.
This year's business will decide if my sales are enough to farm out my wood working, or get out of the crank business all together. if i get out of the crank business, I'm just going to buy other folks blanks, and just go with the custom paint niche. Wood working is taking alot of quality time away from my family.
Rob |
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| I router all mine and then go to a file and sandpaper. I don't like the "router line" that you see on many baits and that's why I use the file, just a personal preference. The router really scares me too! I have never gotten bit but I think if you use one long enough it's bound to happen. My suggestion would be to have the lures cut for you if you intend to make more than 25.
jed v. |
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Location: Des Moines IA | Riverman - 1/25/2006 12:13 AM
. My suggestion would be to have the lures cut for you if you intend to make more than 25.
jed v.
Don't tell me that, I just spent 100$ on a new bandsaw........ |
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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | Thanks everyone, for the replys. I think you have convinced me to forget the power equipment. Doug |
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Posts: 502
Location: Lincoln UK | I'm surprised we have so many negative comments here, routers are fine and not dangerous if used correctly, after all some people route for a living and still manage to get health insurance.
I find the best way to route is definately with a router table and a radii router bit with a bearing centre, once set up properly baits do not get that line previously mentioned unless you want it.
fast and safe if approached correctly. Buy the best router bits you can, the likes of freud and CMT are well worth the extra. |
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Posts: 393
Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | I agree with Chico buy quality bits. They'll stay sharper longer and will cut easier. A sharp tool is safer than a dull one. Also like I said before SAFETY FIRST! You must be alert and aware at all times, but doesn't that go for all power tools?
Jed, if you're getting "that line" than lower the bit slightly. If you're usinga bearing guided bit and you're getting a line, the bit is just a little too high. |
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Posts: 479
Location: Eden Prairie & Pine Island | Lot of good comments here, router table, sharp bits, etc. Also remember to move with grain where possible. DON"T RUSH IT I still have all my finger tips. There are smaller "laminate cutters" which are essentially small routers with 1/4 inch collets. They are bigger than dremels, but smaller (& cheaper) than full size routers. I am experimenting with one now, but don't know if it will ever replace my full size. |
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Posts: 393
Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | Good point GMan.
If you're experiencing "burning" of the wood, you're cutting too slow. Probably the most hazardous part is cutting end grain; this is where the "tear out" and bait jerking out of your hand are likely to occur. You can avoid this by cutting against the bit or against the normal cutting direction for ONLY that specific area. Cedar is horrible for tear out while maple usually induces burning. |
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Posts: 4266
| I buy all of my blanks, and one of the steps in the long process from "piece of wood" to fishing lure is always getting rid of the router marks. The harder the wood, the less damage needs repair, but there always is some because you have to go against the grain at some point. I bought a little palm sander to make the job less tedious, but it's still one of the steps that needs to be done.
I used to use a belt/disc sander for doing it, but often times I would ruin a blank by being in too much of a hurry. The palm sander gives me a little better precise control.
What was the question? 
Beav |
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Location: Duluth, MN - Superior, WI | One thing that was overlooked is hearing protection. Routers make lots of racket (what).
-Corey |
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Posts: 169
| Not to change subjects, but, I'm in the process of making my own 2D router duplicator. Does anyone know if the 1/4" "trim" routers have enough power to cut out wood as dense as Maple, Oak, or Walnut? Most of the cutting would be with Cedar or the likes, but I would like to keep my options open. I'm trying to stay away from the full size routers. Thanks. |
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Posts: 479
Location: Eden Prairie & Pine Island | Brad,
I made a simliar device and the smaller router I'm using works fine so far on hard wood. Like you, I intend to use it on cedar more than hard woods, but on the test carvings its been fine. Its a 3/4 horse (laminate router). If you want to exchange info on the duplicator drop me a line. |
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Posts: 2112
Location: The Sportsman, home, or out on the water | G-man, I sent you a PM, did you get it?
Rob |
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