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Posts: 8777
| Why don't brand new bucktails work until you catch a few fish on them? I had a handful that accounted for 80% of my fish on blades for several seasons. When they finally met their maker, I bought replacements. None of them caught fish like their predecessors.
Once I got a few fish to commit, though, it was game on again. I have one in particular that I have to replace every year. It's worthless until the first fish. Every fish after that it gets better. When it's on the verge of falling apart, it's almost a guarantee that I'll catch a fish on it on any given day. Throw the new one, and it inevitably sucks.
Is it just me, or does a bucktail have to be at the end of its useful life to catch fish on a regular basis? |
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Posts: 415
Location: MN | New fad: pre broken-in or "burned-in" bucktails! People pay good money for jeans with holes already worn in the knees - why not bucktails with the blades ready to fall off? |
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Location: ontario | Could be wrong but maybe it has to do something with the smell of it after a muskie eats it and gets its slime on it. |
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Posts: 2267
Location: SE, WI. | Jeff, your questions probably has something to do with sonics. Especially if your dealing with painted surfaces. Many surfaces create dents and scratches which my be kicking out some sounds your not aware of! One of the first things I do with some of My top-waters. IS there paint rubbing against metal??? I usually chip the paint away to create vibration and squeaks that most fisherman don't think about. I really believe sound is the answer!!! JD |
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Posts: 624
Location: S.W. WI | I have one particular bucktail I have to replace every year due to many fish, and also usually re-wire it halfway thru the season due to repeated bending and staraightening back. I have noticed zero difference. It's money. Maybe its color, maybe it's just confidence. I know it looks awesome to my eyes in the waters I fish, but of course color doesnt matter, (much) so.... |
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Posts: 1084
Location: Aurora | I'm with splasher on the sonics and go so far as to solder one of the clevises to the lead bead, file grooves on all bead surfaces that touch, and secure the anchor bead so they have to grind against one another.
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Posts: 1425
Location: St. Lawrence River | Sidejack - 12/20/2017 7:07 PM
I'm with splasher on the sonics and go so far as to solder one of the clevises to the lead bead, file grooves on all bead surfaces that touch, and secure the anchor bead so they have to grind against one another.
Very very neat..
I am definitely with you guys. Tantalize that lateral line..
I have a Dadson double 10 that has a bunch of fish on it. I just keep straightening it back out but i know it has a unique wiggle/vibration to it that i just cant duplicate.. this bucktail is MONEY. |
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Posts: 305
| Sidejack, Which one is the lead bead and which one is the anchor bead? |
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Posts: 1084
Location: Aurora | esoxlucifer - 12/21/2017 10:34 PM
Sidejack, Which one is the lead bead and which one is the anchor bead?
The lead bead is on the top with the clevis soldered to it.
The anchor bead is the one nearest the skirt.
Without securing the anchor, the beads gear up and they all spin together as one unit.
Securing the anchor ensures that they grind against one another.
Note--> without keel weighting, the entire bait will spin around nearly every time your blade spins around due to pressure that the blade(s) create during retrieve.
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Posts: 333
Location: SE Wisc | it’s just confidence, confidence makes the difference. You’ll throw those old confidence baits more so you’ll catch more on them |
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| just about luck or so many other factors other than the lures |
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| Sidejack - 12/20/2017 6:07 PM
I'm with splasher on the sonics and go so far as to solder one of the clevises to the lead bead, file grooves on all bead surfaces that touch, and secure the anchor bead so they have to grind against one another.
genius! i would like to see that thing ''professionally '' made .if the grooves are too deep it will make the blades spin a lot slower |
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Posts: 349
| If you really want to "break in" your new bucktails, go spend a day or two fishing one of the thousands of hammerhandle infested lakes in the midwest. |
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Posts: 246
| Try this |
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Posts: 246
| Try this 
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Posts: 84
| Sidejack I am having some difficulty understanding exactly the arrangement you described. Could you help me by answering a question or two?...or just a photo? Imagine a bucktail with the loop up and the bucktail & hook hanging down. Next..considering the beads & clevis construction, could we use (bead + clevis) to mean bead soldered to a clevis with the bead above the soldered clevis and (clevis + bead) to mean a clevis with a bead soldered on the bottom. With that in mind, if I was trying to put together a double bladed bucktail , starting from the TOP of the lure (line tie) would I have - a) (Bead + clevis) INTERLINKED with (clevis + bead) then other beads as you described with the bottom bead solidly attached to the wire above the bucktail & hook...OR b) Closest to the line tie loop(Clevis + bead) followed by BUT NOT INTERLINKED with the next one, another (Clevis + bead) ....so the bead of the upper (Clevis + bead) rubs against a plain end of the lower (Clevis + bead), all followed by other beads below, again those finished with a non-rotating bead on the bottom, closest to the bucktail & hook. Very hard to describe...sorry. Your suggestions are brilliant! Thanks. |
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Posts: 1084
Location: Aurora | Hey Old Guy, check your inbox for a pm from me.
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