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| Hello guys, im a lake erie walleye fisherman and just recently started to paint my own baits. After some getting used to, im starting to see good results. Right now i am using a white primer and createx airbrush paint. I am still playing around with clear coats but as of now, i am using the dick nite clear. I am brushing it on with a small 1'' brush, putting 2 coats on. My airbrush is a paasche talon and i normally spray around 40-45psi.
My question is, for my application-is there another paint you guys can recommend? i am looking at the house of kolor line to see if i can get some more "pop" in my colors.
my main issue comes with my setup. i have a cheap wooden table that i paint on and after applying the createz, i stick the bait lips in a slot i cut out of a cardboard box. I dont have a drying wheel yet. This setup works, but i was thinking about going to walmart and buying a long 8' folding table and maybe adding some clamps or fly tying vises to hold the baits in place for me.
do you guys have any suggestions on how i can improve my current setup? |
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Posts: 567
| use small vise grips to hold your baits while painting. clamp them on the hook wire. for a drying wheel, a simple rotisserie motor avail. at lowes or home depot will do a good job, especially if your baits are smaller walleye plugs. search drying wheel on this forum and you will get plenty of pics. createx is great, i like the pearls for finish effects. lifetone taxidermy paint offers some good metallics in waterborne and several in solvent borne lacquers. DO NOT use solvent borne and waterborne in the same brush no matter how clean you think you have it. Dick Nites clear is great stuff sprayed on. your other option for sprayed clear is automotive, and its quite $$. epoxy is what most of us use here but is generally overkill with plastic baits. it's good for wood simply because water is not. hope that helps. enjoy, its lots of fun and takes the hobby to a whole new level. |
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| thanks for the reply. I agree the dick nite is working good. I learned my lesson and make sure i keep the threads clean on the lid and jar now. I brush it on with a 1 inch foam brush and them sit it to dry. is there a way to spray just a small amount at a time through the same airbrush i am using? I know there is thinning directions for a full 2oz jar, but i never use that in one sitting. My airbrush is gravity feed. is it as simple as pouring the clear coat in the cap and adding small amounts of thinner untill i feel its thin enough?
most of my walleye baits range from 5 to 8 inches/ |
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Posts: 225
Location: Nordeast Minneapolis | I use a 'helping hand' stand to hold lures when I'm painting...
http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-319.html
Nice and versatile, because it can hold a lure at just about any angle you want. And cheap! I took the magnifier off, and it does exactly what I need it to. |
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Posts: 1207
Location: Pigeon Forge TN. | Everyone has their own way of doing things including the types of paint they use. It boils down to what is easiest and works best for your application and what you prefer. The advice about not using solvent based in same brush as water based is very good advice and should be followed if you want to avoid some great headaches.
I use all solvent based lacquer, I hold my lures one at a time with a small pair of 4inch vise grips than put an opened paper clip ( S- hook ) in the eyelet to hang it on a drying rack which is mounted above me. I built a frame with 1x2 furring strips and cover it with chicken wire, I can hold about 250 lures on it. That is my drying rack. The way I am set up., I can run an awful lot of lures in a days time.
I have seven airbrushes hooked up at my booth. I have, depending on color and combo, used as many as six of them in succession before I hung the lure on the rack.
Lifetone is a very good paint, I know the manufacturer well and have used his paints for years.
Good luck on your projects.
Edited by Stan Durst 1 9/15/2010 10:53 AM
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Posts: 567
| well, many may disagree but personally i woud not run dn through an expensive airbrush. i use a cheap gravity fed detail gun (17$) that i got from harbor freight tools, i beleive it is made by central pneumatic. i think the cup is 3oz, but it will spray almost every drop. as far as thinning, i make and use paint for a living so i have access to alot of different things but when i spray it i reduce with 1:1 acetone and isobutyl acetate. i like the speed, it wont run at all. im sure you can get it at wal mart or any hardware store. there is no wrong way to reduce it if you know how your gun likes to spray, i like mine to have a visc. of around 15 seconds at room temp, now that being said put some thinner in it, stir it up, and see what it feels like. mix it a tad thinner than the createx. it may look cloudy to you at first but mix it and it will clear like glass. do not reduce the entire can at once it will dry out on you. you can use a 1 oz medicine cup to mix, start with 3/4 oz. of dn and add about 1/8 oz of pre blended solvent to it. add more if you need it. i assure you will be able to do at least 2-3 lures coated heavy. the more you paint the more you mix. the most efficient way to spray is simply more baits=less waste. remember, a larger gun is very easy to clean, where a small, expensive airbrush is not. dn is a urethane coating, so she dries no matter what, fast and hard. go over the bait first with a thin tack coat, then sock it to it. it looks great! it sounds complicated but its not. i guarantee your baits will look great and all for cheaper than a new airbrush. when you reduce keep in mind you can turn that 50$ quart into a quart and 1/2! |
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Posts: 567
| by the way, you don't need a wheel to dry dn sprayed. if you mix it like i mentioned above or similar she will tack off in 10 minutes or less room temperature. sorry for being so long winded but i am in the hospital and bored off my@#$%!! good luck and enjoy! |
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Posts: 399
Location: Burton, Ohio | I went to the hobby store. They have these vise bench clamps that rotate. I think they were around 20 dollars. I take the bait and clamp the tail into a pair of hand held vise grips. Then you can clamp it into the bench vise. I will see if I can post a picture of the set-up for you. I am at work at the moment.
Walleye baits! 
John |
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| thanks everyone for your advice and posts. Tigger, i would love to see those pictures if you wouldnt mind. I have followed you on a few websites and really in awe of your baits. I think my next course of action is going to be trying some scale effects. if you guys have any advice/tricks on how to lay down a good scale pattern-please say, im all ears.
Also, tigger--i play around alot with the bare naked reef runners. I know when reef runner paints their bare nakeds on the INSIDE of the bodies to get the nice sharp look on them. Since i buy mine already rigged up, is there a way to still add a custom paint job to them, and still get the transparent look? I have tried using transparent colors over the body-but cant seem to get an effect i like. any thoughts or advice? |
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Posts: 399
Location: Burton, Ohio | Curious here are some clamping setups that I use. I put the bait in the pliers and then clamp it in the vise. You can clamp also by going under the jaws in the open pocket below. That is how I hold the lure to do the scales. I just stretch the netting over the back and use little spring clamps along the belly. I think most people do it this way.
If you use the transparent paint over the bare naked bodies that would work fine. I have done that in the past. There are a ton of things to use for scale patterns. It is almost unlimited. Here are some examples of nettings.
John
(DSC06784underviseclamp.jpg)
(DSC06782visepliersbait.jpg)
(DSC06772spotnetting.jpg)
(DSC06774chainnetting.jpg)
Attachments
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 DSC06778vise.jpg (39KB - 159 downloads)
DSC06780pliersbait.jpg (38KB - 159 downloads)
DSC06784underviseclamp.jpg (39KB - 151 downloads)
DSC06782visepliersbait.jpg (40KB - 166 downloads)
DSC06768nettings.jpg (79KB - 162 downloads)
DSC06772spotnetting.jpg (38KB - 164 downloads)
DSC06774chainnetting.jpg (90KB - 166 downloads)
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| awesome, thanks so much john. The scale material makes sense now. I see you are using createx as well-is that what you use mostly-or do you like the higher end stuff? |
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| Tigger, can I ask , where did you get the cloth material? All I can find is the netting. Thanks Doug |
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Posts: 399
Location: Burton, Ohio | Doug that stuff was given to me by my friend Mordas from Musky Train. He lives down the road from me. I think he just got it at the fabric store. It may be in the scarf material area. Alot of times those fabrics don't jump out at you. You have to go isle by isle. The sales clerk will be watching you closely! 
Sometimes the super Walmarts have the fabric also. You may want to check there also. I thought that the paint would not go thru the fabric. I was suprised that it did. You waste more paint sticking to the fabric. It was an experiment for me. It is hard to do that on the walleye baits. The musky baits I like to do the natural finishes. I am thinking of doing some the "wild side" paint jobs for a change of pace.
John |
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Posts: 360
Location: Tinley Park. Fish Cen IL. Bass & Vilas Cty.Muskie | I saw a guy who used a big bike rim and somehow tack welded chips to it. this way he was able to paint 5-10 baits at a time. He just spun it a little to paint the next one the same color. |
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