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Posts: 110
Location: North Canton, Ohio 44720 | Help! Here are some pictures of Devcon 2 topcoat(3 coats-sanded in between coats) over createx paint that has cracked and peeled off of the paint of some lures I have made. I am just starting to experiment with this as a topcoat because of all of the good things I hear about it, but I have to say that I am starting to question the durability of this stuff. Before I draw any conclusions as to whether it is worth using it any more I would like to hear some advice. Water has gotten underneath the topcoat and went thru the lure and made the epoxy lift off of the paint. I don't have any clue why this is happening so if anyone has any suggestions it is greatly appreciated. It seems that this epoxy is extremely brittle. Maybe envirotex is a better choice. Again, I am looking for any advice.
Thanks, Mike.
(2008_1019Dev2Cracks0001.JPG)
(2008_1019Dev2Cracks0006.JPG)
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 2008_1019Dev2Cracks0001.JPG (44KB - 75 downloads)
2008_1019Dev2Cracks0006.JPG (71KB - 71 downloads)
2008_1019Dev2Cracks0003.JPG (40KB - 71 downloads)
2008_1019Dev2Cracks0004.JPG (42KB - 74 downloads)
2008_1019Dev2Cracks0002.JPG (39KB - 73 downloads)
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Posts: 18
| Looks like your baits are throughwired right?
Have the holes also been coated from the inside?
Perhaps water has gotten under the coat via the holes.
I'm thinking of this because three of your pics show problems around the hookhangers.
Gtrz Paul |
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Posts: 179
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan | I use d2t on all my musky baits and never have a problem. It appears that water is getting in at your mounting holes, saturating the wood and expanding it, cracking the top coat. It doen't matter what kind of epoxy you use if water is getting in it will do this. Let's start at the beginning. You said you used Createx, but how are you sealing your wood after sanding before painting and top coat?
Rod |
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Posts: 110
Location: North Canton, Ohio 44720 | These lures are thru wire. The reason I ask about the Devcon 2 is I have not had this problem with other lures I have made. The process is all the same. I simply prime the wood with Kilz white wood sealer primer and paint. I have added a couple of other photos of lures I have made. The topwaters have a 2 coat epoxy topcoat from Moores lures that has never cracked and the jerkbaits have envirotex on them and I have never had a problem with them. I was wondering if it is the epoxy. I just wondered if anyone else had this problem with Devcon 2.
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2008_1019Misc0008.JPG (86KB - 72 downloads)
2008_1019Misc0010.JPG (83KB - 65 downloads)
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Posts: 399
Location: Burton, Ohio | Mike, I started off using the Devcon 2 product. I had a similiar problem with my test lures at the start. At times water would get under the epoxy and let loose do to the expanding wood. A different time the paint was not dry all the way (Enamel). This did not bond well and seperated also.
I was fortunate enough to have Mr Tim Novak over my house and he showed me something that made me change from using it on particular baits. He took a screw driver handle and smacked the side of one of my baits. It shattered!!!!!!! He told me if I ever planned on selling any baits that this would be a problem. The faster the drying time of epoxy, the more brittle it is. I still like to use it on my small personal crankbaits. It is very very hard stuff.
Maybe when you cast the creepers and topwater stuff .................. the impact of the lure hitting the water may start the process of shattering epoxy by the components. The moving parts may be the cause at impact.
John
Edited by Tigger 10/20/2008 8:15 PM
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Posts: 1529
| the rule of thumb. the longer the dry period. the tougher the finish. for waters with great temperature variances, slower drying epoxies are best. im sorry, we all want instant gratification, but thats the facts. i hate waiting toooo. |
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Posts: 110
Location: North Canton, Ohio 44720 | Thanks for the info guys! What would be a slower drying time brand of epoxy then? or is envirotex the way to go? I have tried another brand of 60 minute epoxy and it didn't harden at all. I used equal parts and mixed it for 5 minutes but it still stayed sticky and goopy.
Thanks again, Mike. |
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Posts: 179
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan | Mike,
You might want to try Nu-Lustre 55 from Swing Paints. It is a long drying 2 part epoxy, but is super clear and super tough when cured. It is tougher than etex. I believe that Woodie uses it. I use it when I am not in a hurry making baits.
Rod
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Posts: 1529
| new lustre is a good epoxy. we have been coating with it on thousands of lures.. wood or plastic accepts it very well. remember measure and mix. |
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Posts: 212
| mike, when you seal your lures do you dip them>? If your topcoat is cracking from the expansion of the wood doesn't that mean water is penetrating the sealer? I've had similar problems with baits I made when I first started, but after I realized I wasn't sealing them enough, I have never had a problem with the Devcon. |
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Posts: 351
| If I understood you correctly, you are simply priming, painting, and clearing with Devcon2.
Try dipping or even soaking the wood blanks in Minwax sanding sealer. It will eliminate most of your problems even if the water gets in here and there. The reason is that is prevents the water from passing clear through the wood bait. I thank rjbass for that tip, by the way.
Also it appears that one of your baits has impact cracks, which can happen with D2.
I have moved away from D2 to etex. Tigger talked me into it and had to drag me away from Devcon kicking and screaming. Envirotex is not as hard, but in my opinion, that is an advantage. It seems to "give" or flex a bit when it suffers any impact as opposed to cracking. It is simply less brittle.
Envirotex will slow your building process (it cures much slower), but it yellows less, fogs less, is less brittle, is readily available in the US, and holds up well in the long run. |
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Posts: 110
Location: North Canton, Ohio 44720 | Thanks for the help everyone. |
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