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Posts: 26
Location: Wisconsin | Going to put a ram mount on my trolling motor shaft. The ram mount is 10 3/4 inches long and I need 15 inches to make it to the floor. The dealer said I should not mount it to the side on the fiberglass, what do you guys do???
Thanks,
Tom P. |
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Posts: 2323
Location: Stevens Point, WI | Yes, that will work just fine. I had mine mounted to the side of the gunnel on last years rig and worked great. You shouldn't have any problems doing that. |
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Posts: 5874
| If you can through bolt it, it will be OK to mount on the side for the gunnel. If not, I don't recommend just using screws to mount on the side. They do make a shorter version. Will that be OK length to the top of the gunnel cap? |
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Posts: 1270
| I have mine mounted to the inside of the hull with only stainless screws, no bolts, and have had no problems in three years. |
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Posts: 223
Location: Minn. | No pressure on it really, unless you fall on it. Should work fine. |
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Posts: 2323
Location: Stevens Point, WI | Yes, I've used stainless steel screws on mine for the last two boats and have had no problems in 7 years of using one. You'll be just fine! |
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Posts: 284
| I know that there is no pressure on it unless you fall on it, but if you consider the abuse those things take on the freeway I'd be careful |
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Posts: 2323
Location: Stevens Point, WI | I think reelman stated he used screws on his and hasn't had a problem the past three seasons. So you shouldn't have a problem using screws on the side of the gunnel, Shep. |
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| anything i mount that'll bear any weight gets through bolted with oversize washers if i've got access to the underside.
i only use screws if it's a horizontal surface and i don't have access. they'd probably be fine, but if you've got easy access, you know for sure that a bolt/washer/lock nut isn't going to get loose on you.
which reminds me...i gotta swing by Gander Mountain and pick up a new trolling motor arm mount!
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Posts: 5874
| Well, I guess the applications I have seen where the screws eventually pull out of the verticle mounted Ram bases don't count then. Any one who says these mounts don't take any abuse isn't running big water.
The screws do, and will loosen up, and elongate the holes, requiring a bigger screw, and eventually a repair to fill the holes. They can also loosen when mounted on the horizontal surface, but this doesn't seem to elongate the holes.
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Posts: 1270
| I would prefer bolts where ever I am mounting something but sometimes there just isn't any access to get a nut in behind the bolt. I pre-drill the hole, counter sink through the gel-coat so it doesn't crack and then put in some silicone caulk before I put the stainless screw in. I check them every year and they have not loosened up one bit yet.
Honestly I don't think that those screws take much abuse holding down the trolling motor. With the RAM mount the motor is not allowed to move one bit so there is no movement to loosen up the screws.
If I had a choice I would use nuts and bolts but if that isn't an option I would not be afraid to use screws, at least on a fiberglass boat. On aluminum I have never found any screw that will not vibrate loose. |
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Posts: 26
Location: Wisconsin | Anybody use this one. That way it can be mounted to the floor and I don't have to worry about the screws pulling out.
If distance from bottom of trolling motor shaft is more than 11" to the the deck order RAM-108U-D-EX . Consists of part # 218-1U single ball with 1/2" npt hole and #232-OU 2.5" base with 1/2 npt hole instead of #202-U base the difference is made up with the appropriate length of 1/2 pipe supplied by you
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