|
|
| I've been painting baits for years and just buy the cheapest spray cans and was wondering if any of these may not be compatible w/ e-Tex.
Thanks,
Hog Tamer |
|
| |
|
Posts: 2378
| I'm sure there is, but i havent experienced any personally. Ask Beav, I think he learned the hard way on a couple |
|
| |
|
Posts: 4266
| The problem that I had was using a primer that was not compatible with the paint.
E-Tex should work with everything as long as you let it dry completely.
Beav |
|
| |
|
Posts: 280
Location: Pewaukee WI | Hey Beaver,
Just out of curiousity what was the problem? |
|
| |
|
| There are a couple things to stay away from with E-tex. Stay away from Enamel paint and anything with wax or silicone in it. The makers of E-tex suggest using polyurethane as a primer. Don't use it either.
Don Slagle |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | Yep, Auto Air and some taxidermy paints.
Jed V. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 4266
| I used Zinsser Coverstain primer/sealer, and then painted over it with House of Kolor Acrylic Laquers.
After that I put 2 coats of E-Tex on the lures and the first time that I used them, the E-Tex split and the paint lifted right off of the lure just like fish skin. Underneath I found bare wood. NOT white wood. I sent 2 of the lures to HOK, and their tech told me......when the paint dried and the reducer evaporated, it sucked the Coverstain right out of the wood. I was actually throwing a lure that had an "eggshell" on it that was anchored by the screw eyes. The strain that I put on the lure every time that I cast, caused the E-Tex to start to split. Had the Coverstain done it's job, the wood under the paint would have been white, not bare wood. Incompatibility.
His advise....don't mix producers until you inquire if they will work together.
Now I use all House of Kolor products. Ko-Seal primer that works with acrylic laquers or polyurethanes.
I've tested the new stuff that Stan and I are working with on several different HOK products just to make sure that they work together.
I know the HOK products aren't cheap, but they are the best that I've used, so I'm sticking with what looks the best and lasts the longest.
I've used E-Tex over HOK UV resistant urethane enamel top coat, and it worked.
Beav
Edited by Beaver 3/16/2006 11:54 AM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 4266
| Tried to edit this, but Slamr wouldn't let me.
I talked to the makers of E-Tex, and they told me that you can and should apply it over polyurethane or urethane, but don't forget that important step in between. You have to scuff the surface first. Not with steel wool, but with very fine grit sandpaper.
I've been pinstriping some patterns, and in order to pinstripe, I have to apply a UV resistant urethane over the lure before I apply the pinstripes. I need the urethane over the paint because otherwise the paint that I apply will ruin the paint underneath. Before I pinstripe, I must scuff the entire lure surface, then do the pinstriping. The paint has something to hold on to, and so does the E-Tex.
You can also use the spray-on Envirotex over your paint job as a sealer.
Tech people are your friends.
Beav |
|
| |
|
Posts: 280
Location: Pewaukee WI | Hey Beaver,
So you put down a thin coat and then sand before applying the E-Tex>? Sounds interesting have you tried it yet?
Hit em Hard |
|
| |
|
Posts: 4266
| Not on a lure.
I found out from HOK tech support that if I wanted to pinstripe, I needed a barrier between the exisiting paint and the pinstripe paint. Then I called E-Tex tach support and asked them if it would stick to urethane. They said NO. You must scuff the surface with fine grit sandpaper and then apply the E-Tex. So I just took a piece of wood, painted it black and then put the urethane topcoat on. I lightly sanded it and then brushed on E-Tex. The scuffs disappeared and it lookd nice and shiny just as if I had poured a coat over it. It didn't adhere to the pinstripes as well, but that is because I never roughed up the pinstriped surface. They told me that it needs something to stick to, and a shiny surface is the worst......besides oil, or plastic residue.
Try it on a bare piece of wood or plastic first and see for yourself.
Beav |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1207
Location: Pigeon Forge TN. | If you use a very fine grit , such as 400 or 500, wet or dry sand paper to very lightly buff the eurathane, what you are doing is creating microscopic scouring of the surface for adhesion of the next coat.
You are only taking the clarity ( shine) out of the clearcoat. When you clearcoat again it puts the clarity back in.
You can buff the clear plastic lip on a lure and come up with the same results.
Just remember to use the very fine grit and "take the shine" out of the clearcoat and that will be sufficient to bond the next coat.
|
|
| |
