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More Muskie Fishing -> Basement Baits and Custom Lure Painting -> Bucktail component questions
 
Message Subject: Bucktail component questions
JoeTC
Posted 9/10/2015 10:39 AM (#783938)
Subject: Bucktail component questions




Posts: 31


I'm going to build a few of my own blade baits and I have a couple questions that I haven't been able to get answered through my initial research.

First, should I use solid or hollow brass beads for the body and what size? I was thinking 1/4"?

Secondly, anyone know of a source for silicone skirting that is long enough for muskie baits? Most of the bass stuff is only 6" tabs and I assume I will need at least 8" tabs.

Any other tips or watch outs for a beginner would be appreciated as well.

Thanks,

Joe
Zib
Posted 9/10/2015 11:29 AM (#783959 - in reply to #783938)
Subject: RE: Bucktail component questions





Posts: 1405


Location: Detroit River
For beads it depends on how heavy you want the bucktail to be. If you'll be burning the bait then go with the solid beads. I prefer solid beads over hollow. If you do go with hollow beads be sure to at least put a solid bead where the clevis will be rubbing against. The hollow beads have a rough end around the hole with the clevis spinning against it will cause the clevis to wear out (especially when trolling). As for using the 1/4" size that is fine if it's for a smaller bucktail like the size of the Buchertail 700 series but I'd go with a size up or 2 if you're building a double bladed tail. I can't help with the longer silicone skirts. I used to know a website that sold 9" long silicone skirts but I lost the link.

Edited by Zib 9/10/2015 11:30 AM
krazyk
Posted 9/10/2015 11:38 AM (#783962 - in reply to #783938)
Subject: RE: Bucktail component questions




Posts: 45


Lure Parts On-Line has all the components...I prefer to use the solid brass beads as they add weight to the bait and I vary the sizes as it looks cooler...if you're making in-lines get the smallest bead you can and put it as the last bead before the clevises and you'll get blades that spin without any effort. Also stay away from the brass clevises, as they are not as durable as the nickel ones. When buying beads consider the inside diameter as your wire size will dictate what will work. Last thing..when I make my double 8's I use a 3/4 oz. sinker and with 9's or 10's 1 oz. The extra weight helps them track better and burn faster without blowing out.
Pal
Posted 9/10/2015 11:47 AM (#783965 - in reply to #783962)
Subject: RE: Bucktail component questions




Posts: 665


Location: Twin Cities, MN
Siicone skirts for muskies are hard to come by. There used to be a guy at the MN muskie show who was a great source, but I have not seen him in a while.

These all are possible options.

Moore's lures
Barstow tackle
Jannescraft
Rollie & Helen's

Finding them longer than the standard 7 inch version is the tough part. The ones that come with 63 strands are the ones you see on Llungen tails.

Good Luck
dsqui
Posted 9/11/2015 5:25 AM (#784056 - in reply to #783938)
Subject: RE: Bucktail component questions




Posts: 39


ild like to add a question as i am also taking up making inlines. what size thread are you guys using to wrap everything? also what kind of split rings do you all use i got triple split rings but had to go with a smaller one according to the charts i read so the would not slip over my solid beads for a front hook?
Zib
Posted 9/11/2015 9:50 AM (#784086 - in reply to #784056)
Subject: RE: Bucktail component questions





Posts: 1405


Location: Detroit River
dsqui - 9/11/2015 6:25 AMild like to add a question as i am also taking up making inlines. what size thread are you guys using to wrap everything? also what kind of split rings do you all use i got triple split rings but had to go with a smaller one according to the charts i read so the would not slip over my solid beads for a front hook?
I use the #5 Wolverine triple split rings as well but I'm not a fan of them. I also use the Joe Bucher split rings, which are super strong.The size thread I use is the 210 that I bought at Gander Mt. I wouldn't use anything thinner than that. I once bought thinner stuff by accident & I was breaking it too much when I was tying.
krazyk
Posted 9/11/2015 11:02 AM (#784101 - in reply to #784056)
Subject: RE: Bucktail component questions




Posts: 45


Use Big Fly Thread..its available in lots of colors and its tough as nails...I cover it with a coat or two of Hard as Nails (Sally Hansen) for the finishing touch.
dsqui
Posted 9/12/2015 2:31 PM (#784210 - in reply to #783938)
Subject: Re: Bucktail component questions




Posts: 39


another question for you guys what kind of knot do you use to tie off a coil do you just use a basic whip finish or something more fancy
NathanH
Posted 9/12/2015 3:34 PM (#784215 - in reply to #784210)
Subject: Re: Bucktail component questions





Posts: 859


Location: MN
I wipe finish its simple and easy. Once you put a few coats of hard as nails that stuff will
Never move.
dsqui
Posted 9/12/2015 5:29 PM (#784223 - in reply to #783938)
Subject: Re: Bucktail component questions




Posts: 39


thanks nathan
spoonpluggergino
Posted 9/13/2015 11:28 AM (#784264 - in reply to #783938)
Subject: Re: Bucktail component questions





Posts: 321


Location: Glen Ellyn Il
One of the easiest loop to do, is do what the rod guys do to finish their wraps. Make a loop out of 80 Lb. fishing line, about 5 inches long loop, when you get ready to finish your coil thread lay down the loop over the coil thread, wrap over about 10 times or a little less, break the tread long enough to go through the loop, pool through , trim out and you are done, it's fast and easy
Gino
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