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Posts: 13
| I made my first crankbait a while back and when I tested it out I was pleased with the fact it actually ran somewhat decent but not exactly what I was looking for. It's got a decent wide side to side action but I wanted a lot more thump. Its somewhat like a 6" slammer but what I was looking for ease more like a nuch or a mf shad. Any tips to achieve this would be greatly appreciated! |
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Posts: 1529
| picture wood help. |
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Posts: 13
| Pic |
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Posts: 13
| Didnt think about pics this is the only one I took.
(20170315_180334_001_resize_50_compress87.jpg)
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 20170315_180334_001_resize_50_compress87.jpg (126KB - 522 downloads)
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Posts: 526
| Did you put any weight in for ballast? The placement of the weight will have an impact on how your bait runs. The the lip size, shape, and angle all impact the way it runs as well. |
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| add weight to center of the bait , if still not what you want then put the lip slightly steeper
also a round lip , square lips obviously will run like a crank but are typically used for a jerk bait and wont thump as hard
Edited by DJCustombaitsLLC 8/13/2019 10:39 AM
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Posts: 44
| Welcome to the challenging world of bait making. First off, I like the shape of your bait.
It is important that your hardware is installed in the center of the bait. The bill needs to be seated squarely in reference to the body. Weight also needs to be installed in the center of the bait.
As a general rule, if you draw a line on your bait from the center of the nose down the side to the middle of the tail, this marks the upper limit to the placement of weight. Try to keep the weight as close to the belly as possible. (As you progress with your lure making skills you may find the need to violate this rule, but that comes later.)
Weighting is critical. Placement of weights, distribution of weights, and number of weights all impact action. During the weighting process make sure all hardware is installed including hooks, even if only temporarily. The wood also needs to be sealed so no water is absorbed. It is important to locate and mark the center of gravity of your bait. There are lots of videos online to demonstrate this procedure.
Get some rubber bands and use them to hold the weights to the belly of the bait. A good place to start weighting is the center of gravity; however weight may be needed in more than just that location. Once you have the weights where you think they should be then test float the bait in a bucket of water. Look to see how much of the back of the bait is out of water. If it floats too high more weight is needed. Then check the orientation of the bait as it floats. Is it horizontal, head up or head down? This can be modified by moving the location of the weights. Lots of trial and error is involved.
Once you are satisfied with the placement and amount of weight required, carefully mark those locations on the bait and record how much weight is needed at each point. Unfortunately, this is an approximation because now we have to drill out the wood to accommodate each of the weights and they have to be securely seated in place with some type of glue. Changes may also occur to the bait with the addition of weight from priming, painting and sealing.
As for bill type, there are excellent discussions of the effect of bill type on lure action on TU. I use square bills on all of my crankbaits since I want a distinct thump. Weight placement also impacts the degree of thump.
If I can be of any further assistance send me a PM.
Edited by So IL Muskie Hunter 8/14/2019 9:24 AM
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Posts: 71
| In the pic it looks like the tail is thinner than the head which makes it lighter in the tail spilling the water, I would think faster. Good advice from SO ILL muskies |
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Posts: 13
| I just noticed today I got some responses thanks guys I appreciate it. I put lead in behind the lip and right in front of the back screw eye I thinned ou5 etex with denatured alcohol to seal it. It runs good and about the right depth I was looking for and it rises evenly it's just not what I was looking for. It's a little tighter wiggle than I was hoping for I was looking for something more similar to the action of a nuch or mf shad im assuming moving the weight in the rear might get me a little closer? I've read a lot of different things about lip placement, shape, and angle but on different discussions I've seen a lot of one person saying one thing and others saying the opposite it's kinda been helpful but left me with more questions at the same time. Thanks for the help guys |
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Posts: 71
| Try putting your line tie right on the lip and keep placing it in different spots closer to the front of the lip just small movement makes a big difference.
Wayne |
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