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Posts: 34
| I know this has been asked many times but I haven't been satisfied with all the answers I've found yet :P.
I am currently making resin plastic lures and that is only because I make super detailed lures.
I want to make wood lures but I haven't found anything to seal the wood with without making all the carved details to disappear under the sealer.
I tried epoxy like Envirotex but its to thick and doesn't penetrate the wood enough.
Do you have any tips? I have asked Melosh fishing lures how he does it but he won't tell me how he do it :).
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Posts: 791
Location: WI | I assume you are referring to sealing bare wood not top coat. I use zinser universal sanding sealer. I dip them. Then use a brush to remove any drips. It drys quite thin. |
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| Beaver mentioned an etex spray in a recent post. Perhaps that's your ticket. |
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Posts: 34
| Yes exactly. Sealing bare wood. I got a really good top coat. Even better than Envirotex.
Do you have any photos on how it looks after you sealed your lures? Do you know how much it sucks into the wood?
aaah, nice. Im gonna look into that spray. Sounds interesting.
Thanks for the advices.
Keep give me advices if you have any ideas :)! |
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Posts: 4266
| I dip all of my lures in Sherwin Williams Sherwood Homo-Clad. I use it to seal bare Figured Redwood and it penetrates but doesn't do anything bad to the figuring of the wood. It's only available in 5 gallon buckets, that's the down side. |
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Posts: 791
Location: WI | The zinser universal sealer soaks into the wood. It is actually a wax free shellac. I went to the paint store and was told that it was the only product that they would recommend for the application as it is universal and you can put any type of paint over it. Water base or lacquer.
There is a minimal build after dipped. And it drys very fast. It is available in quarts or gallons. I'm sure it is similar to what beaver is talking about.
After I soak the baits for a few minutes I hang and wipe excess off with a brush. When dry I use a scotch brite pad to scuff and smooth and then prime. I will take pics tonight of the product as well as the result. |
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Posts: 908
Location: South-Central PA | Beaver, it may not be convenient to buy in that quantity, but a 5 gallon bucket is perfect for dipping. Thanks for the tip!
I typically use a sanding sealer in a quart can- not conducive to dipping.
Jeremy |
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Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | If you thin the epoxy you use on the top coat it soaks in. Denatured alcohol works for E Tex, I use lacquer thinner on the stuff I use as the company says it blends in with it better. |
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Posts: 34
| Thanks for all the tips guys!
With the products you are using. Are you just using it once and then the lure is sealed and ready for paint or do you need to put on many layers before the lure is fully sealed?
How hard does the surface get with you sealers?
Can I paint with water based paint on them when they are cured?
I can also say that I fish for Northern Pike so I always put on minimum 3 layers of E-tex for top coat, they got big teeths :).
Melosh fishing lures told me that he is using a Sanding sealer but not wich brand :P.
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Posts: 321
Location: Glen Ellyn Il | When I make glide baits, due to need to ballast the bait and water test, a quick way for me to seal the bait and test it, I use CA glue, it's very thin, I use my finger to spread the CA glue, or also called super glue. Zap a Gap is very good one. I use the tips of thin gloves over the finger. The C A glue that I really like because it never dries in the container good to the last drop is made by Sure Hold super glue
Gino
Edited by spoonpluggergino 2/5/2015 9:53 AM
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