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Posts: 165
| This weekend I am installing a Helix 9 in my boat. When it comes to batteries I am just not very knowledgeable and I am looking for some advice. I am going to buy a separate battery and run both the Helix 9 (console) and Hook 7 (Bow) to this battery.
What kind of battery do I buy. I have received a lot of different opinions just from my circle of fishing friends and most their answers are just based off of what they do with know real knowledge as to why. Do I get Deep Cycle do I get a starting battery or is there another kind of batter that would work better? I read some good stuff about the Optima batteries but that would be a little out of my price range for what I want to spend. I'm looking to spend 100 to 200 dollars on this battery give or take a bit to get the battery I want and need.
Like always, appreciate the help. Always get some good knowledge on this site. |
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Posts: 3469
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya!!
As the locator units would be considered low consistent draw, getting a deep cycle battery would be in my humble opinion the ideal set up. In this situation, get the smallest deep cycle you can find and it will do well. I believe you can find a group size 24 deep cycle battery and you'd be good to go.
Steve |
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Posts: 1901
Location: MN | Steve, I plan to do the same, add a battery for just the electronics. Can this deep cycle be jumped to the cranking battery so that the alternator of the big engine will charge it same as it charges the cranking battery?
I have a Stealth charging system that takes the charge from the engine alternator once the cranking battery gets back up to 13 v, and charges the trolling motor batteries. With this system in place do you see any problem with hooking up the electronics-only battery to the cranking battery to stay charged during a day of running on LOTW? |
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Posts: 443
Location: Duluth, MN | I have 3 group 31 Duracell deep cycles 2 for trolling motor and 1 for the 2 Helix units. I use a 3 bank charger that charges them all at the same time. Since your charging your trolling motor batteries at the end of each day anyways it tops off your electronics battery at the same time. I have a separate starting battery that i don't have a charger hooked up to since it only needs to be charged maybe twice a year. |
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Posts: 3469
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
I would let the alternator work only on the starting battery as it is designed for fast discharge (engine starting) and quick recharge (alternator). If you have an on-board charging system, I would run all electronics to the battery designated for electronics, along with the on-board charger hook up, and let the alternator take care of the starting battery, navigation lights, etc.
If you have a marine radio, stereo, etc...I'd consider rewiring those to the designated electronics battery as well...
Steve |
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| I agree with NOT connecting the new electronics battery to the alternator in parallel with the starting battery. You might think of doing the equivalent with something like this, though:
https://minnkotamotors.johnsonoutdoors.com/battery-chargers/board-al...
These are mainly useful if you do a lot of long runs across a big lake, or troll a lot.
Also, if you get a good-sized AGM battery for the electronics, it can be used as a starting battery for your gas motor in a pinch... |
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Posts: 165
| Thanks for all the input guys. I think I have it figured out for my electronics battery and will just run one battery designated to my fish finders. Hooking up a SI unit this weekend. Excited for the season to get going in Minnesota and dial in this new SI unit. |
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