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Posts: 13
| Hey guys,
I posted a while ago here for the first time and received great feedback immediately. Hoping I can get some more help. I've been fishing from shore on the city lakes for two or three years now. I want to buy a boat for the summer that I can use on these lakes. I found one that seemed like a pretty good deal however I then was told "No holes but it will get wet a long the seam in the rear. But was never a problem. It would just get wet. But that was when there were three of us in the boat."
The boat is a 12 foot aluminium 1963 Sea King. It also come with a 1980s Highlander trailer. I talked him down to 250 for the boat and trailer. I have a trolling motor and old humminbird up at the cabin that I would use on the boat.
Is this a reasonable price and should I be worried about the seam that 'leaks' water? Would this serve me well for a first boat on the city lakes? Any other suggestions for a first boat that's on a tight budget?
Thanks much guys!
~Danny
Edited by DanOpi 5/26/2014 5:15 PM
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Posts: 133
| Sounds reasonable, wish it was in my area, I could use another river boat. The wet seams wouldn't bother me too much, anything that old is going to leak a bit. You could always offer less too. |
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Posts: 163
Location: NoDak | i fixed wet seams, with stop leak canned ruber crap and truck bed liner found in walmart, also just have a bilge pump with flexible plumbing ans aligator clips since you already have a battery, good price with a trailer
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Posts: 13
| What would the bilge pumps purpose be if I seal the wet seams? Also what upgrades or things could I look at fixing up or improving on the boat?
Thanks much guys! |
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Posts: 1755
Location: Mt. Zion, IL | I used West System G/Flex aluminum boat repair kit and it has made my boat like new. Fill the boat partially with water and mark with permanent marker where the hull/seam leaks. Then simply clean, prep, and epoxy. I did buy the etch kit as well to make sure it adhered well. $50 bucks and a night after work and my boat is bone dry. I recommend a heat gun over a torch for the job. |
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Posts: 1285
Location: Walker, MN | +1 G Flex or Gluvit aluminum boat products are the way to go. Replacing leaky rivets is another effective option. |
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Posts: 1283
| Replace or rebuck the rivets then seal with 3m 5200 or Gulvit. You could also weld the leaky seam and never worry about it again.
I would not use the stop leak crap especially on the outside of the hull. Its rubberized and peals off easy and is a mess. I tried it on my last boat and it was the worst decision ever. |
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Posts: 65
Location: Garrison, Mn | Marine silicone is impressive stuff. I cracked my hull last year. The factory wanted it back in July to fix, but I wasn't going to send my boat back in the middle of summer. It would take on an easy 30-50 gallons per hour. Crack was in the front below the water line. I gooped a bunch of marine silicone over the crack. Not expecting much..... That silicone held all summer and fall going 40 mph, and let's just say I use my boat hard....obviously b/c of the crack. I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't seen it first hand. Leaking seam would get a calk job with some marine silicone.
Edited by Minnows 2 Muskies 5/27/2014 10:14 PM
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