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Posts: 115
| So I'm new to bait making and just did my first e-tex job on my first baits. I did 5 baits and the first few i did came out great but the last ones came out kind of lumpy. They have lumps on them that stick up. Is this the "fish eyes" that i see people refer to??? Can I sand E-tex?? I thought about sanding the lumps down and applying another coat. Im sure sanding would scuff up the finish bad, but would applying another coat make the scuff marks go away?? Im thinking the lumps are from the epoxy starting to set up as i was applying it. I probably waited to long after mixing it up?? I dunno, any help appreciated! |
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Posts: 216
Location: Middletown, Ohio | You can sand etex, just wait until it is cured good. Sanding it will scuff it up, but once the next coat is applied, the scuff marks will disappear.
Mark |
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| No, fisheyes are indentations from contaminants on the surface or using epoxies too soon after mixing. Your problem definitely sounds like it's from the Etex starting to set up. Once you feel the brush starting to drag, it's time to make a new mix. If you do get lumps on the bait while you're applying the Etex, you can use a hair dryer to heat the coating up just a tiny bit, while brushing it around on the bait to get rid of the lumps. |
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Posts: 115
| Interesting, I did notice the lumps when i was applying it, I just thought that they would even out on the bait turner. I will try the hair dryer next time i get lumps. One other question, I noticed a few small spots that i missed on my final coat. Can i just touch up those spots or do i need to coat the whole bait with another coat. I'm wondering if i just do a touch up on the spots that need it will they even out or will they dry as a high spot or lump? |
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| Depends on if you want a flawless, seamless finish or not. You can touch up the spots, but you'll likely be able to see where you did slightly. If you want flawless, hit the whole bait again. If you are going to try it, make sure you do it with a fresh mix of Etex. Mix it, let it sit for maybe 2-3 minutes, then hit the spots when it's at it's thinnest. That will give it the best chance to level out and blend in with the previous layer. |
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Posts: 114
Location: Central Wisconsin | I don't like the hair dryer option... just a personal preference. Try leaving the bait rotate for about 5 minutes allowing it to gas out. Then I use a drinking straw and gently hit the bubbles by blowing on them. Make sure to clear the condensation from the straw often or just have more straws ready. I think hair dryers kick up too much dust. |
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| DIZZYHORSE - 9/8/2013 8:35 AM
I don't like the hair dryer option... just a personal preference. Try leaving the bait rotate for about 5 minutes allowing it to gas out. Then I use a drinking straw and gently hit the bubbles by blowing on them. Make sure to clear the condensation from the straw often or just have more straws ready. I think hair dryers kick up too much dust.
That works if they're actually air bubbles. If the peaks are semi-cured epoxy, the only chance to get them to lay down is to heat them up and make them flow again.
If you're getting air bubbles in your coating, either you're applying it too thick and not brushing it out enough, or you're letting your epoxy set up too long and get too thick to where the bubble can't break. As long as the epoxy is still in a workable state, they should easily brush out. The key is to find them and brush them out before you put the lure on the turner. |
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Posts: 115
| Ya, for me, I don't think its air bubbles, I think its the epoxy starting to set up. While i wait after mixing the epoxy i sit there and blow on it in the cup to release the bubbles. That seems to get most of em and my finishes have been pretty bubble free, except for a few around the screw eyes. I will get a straw and use that to blow around the screw eyes next time, good idea! As far as doing a touch up, I'm not looking for perfection or anything, so I guess I'll try doing one with a thin coat. |
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| My trick to keep build-up and bubbles near screw eyes or hook hangers is to do those last and float over a little of what you already have on the body. Cut it close while coating the body, but save the up close coating by the eyes and hangers for the last step. It's not an area for high abrasion, so no need to get it thick, just to look good. 
Edited by Custom Eyes 9/8/2013 9:00 PM
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