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Muskie Fishing -> Muskie Boats and Motors -> ranger trailer seal
 
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Message Subject: ranger trailer seal
Fisher
Posted 5/21/2013 9:48 PM (#642568)
Subject: ranger trailer seal





Posts: 425


Location: Roseau
Anyone have a estimate what it would cost to have a seal replaced on a ranger trailer with oil bath hubs?
Wondering if it is worth doing it myself?
Thanks
esoxfly
Posted 5/22/2013 12:07 AM (#642577 - in reply to #642568)
Subject: Re: ranger trailer seal





Posts: 1663


Location: Kodiak, AK
It's a piece of cake if you're familiar with doing bearings yourself. It's just like pressing in a bearing race; press/punch it out and press/punch a new one back in.
bdog
Posted 5/22/2013 6:00 AM (#642585 - in reply to #642577)
Subject: Re: ranger trailer seal




Posts: 357


Location: Duluth, MN
Yep, Its not too tough, just make sure not to over fill them!!!!
Also since you have it part you may as well change the two O rings for the plastic widow as well. I had a couple that leaked there.
hambone
Posted 5/24/2013 6:02 AM (#642995 - in reply to #642585)
Subject: Re: ranger trailer seal




Posts: 52


I have been through this. Call Charlie Smith at the Ranger trailer factory. Great Guy!! Give him the year and serial # of your trailer to make SURE you get the correct parts. Check the width of the stainless steel seal sleeve, make sure it is the SAME width as old one before you cut old one off. I used a small, very sharp chisel to cut off old sleeve, go slow & easy. Change O-ring and use a little red silicone on O-ring before you install new sleeve. I used a piece of pipe to tap sleeve on.
crix
Posted 5/24/2013 3:18 PM (#643125 - in reply to #642995)
Subject: Re: ranger trailer seal




Posts: 165


Location: tHe LaKe Of PrIoR, mN
why does everyone think you have to get ranger specific seals? I have been running seals from the local auto parts store just brought the old ones with and they matched them up got a few hundred miles on them no issues at all

I highly recommend using the lucas brand hub oil Its slow filling but the stuff works good I run water in a 5 gallon pail as hot as my heater makes so it flows better when filling the hubs

Another trick i did the last time was filled the bearing cap with oil quick popped it on the hub before it could spill made filling go much quicker
hambone
Posted 5/24/2013 6:48 PM (#643150 - in reply to #643125)
Subject: Re: ranger trailer seal




Posts: 52


It is not necessary to use Ranger brand, it is a must to get the correct outside diameter, the correct inside diameter, and the correct width, before you remove the old ones. Otherwise, you will be in trouble. And there are many, many sizes for various applications.
esoxfly
Posted 5/25/2013 3:20 PM (#643260 - in reply to #642568)
Subject: Re: ranger trailer seal





Posts: 1663


Location: Kodiak, AK
You do need to make sure you get the proper hub parts and procedures...and that's most easily done through Ranger. Call them with your serial number and year and they'll get you exactly what you need. They aren't "Ranger" brand seals, but there's two different brands of hubs they use.... UFP and Tie-Down. I have UFP and they need to filled to the absolute top. The Tie-Down are half full.

For filling them, I use one of those oil cans with the thumb lever that pumps out a squirt...just squirt a shot into the hub one at a time, and it'll fill even with cold oil. I tried to find Lucas locally, but coudln't so I've got Valvoline in them right now. Once I get to Kodiak I'll drain them and use Lucas, but any good 50 wt oil will work in them.
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